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Serpentine tensioner assembly bolt

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  #16  
Old 02-10-2012, 11:37 AM
fridgeddiesel fridgeddiesel is offline
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Glad this thread could help. I know this forum has been a huge help in solving problems with my truck. If I can't find a solution in the search I ask and post the solution that I came up with to help others in the same situation.
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  #17  
Old 02-10-2012, 05:30 PM
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Hi, I just wanted to add that a M10 x 1.5 x 80 will work too. I got it and the 100 length but the 100 didn't have enough threads going up to tighten it all the way. If you get a 100 make sure u have enough threads. Maybe not a longterm solution but will help in a pinch.
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  #18  
Old 02-11-2012, 09:57 AM
fridgeddiesel fridgeddiesel is offline
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That may be true. The next size bolt I could find was a M10 x 1.5 X 70 which is NOT long enough. My original bolt had sheared off behind the first three threads in the mounting bracket - stripping out those threads. I noticed that the 100 length bolt stuck thru the back side of the tensioner just a little with no threads. I had purchased an M10 split lock washer that brought that non threaded part back into the tensioner housing. I attached the tensioner to the mounting bracket on the work bench with out the washer and it sucked up tight so I did not use the washer. Probably due to the first three threads being stripped out.

I would guess from putting the parts together from the original bolt that it was a M10 x 1.5 x 90.
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  #19  
Old 02-11-2012, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fridgeddiesel View Post
That may be true. The next size bolt I could find was a M10 x 1.5 X 70 which is NOT long enough. My original bolt had sheared off behind the first three threads in the mounting bracket - stripping out those threads. I noticed that the 100 length bolt stuck thru the back side of the tensioner just a little with no threads. I had purchased an M10 split lock washer that brought that non threaded part back into the tensioner housing. I attached the tensioner to the mounting bracket on the work bench with out the washer and it sucked up tight so I did not use the washer. Probably due to the first three threads being stripped out.

I would guess from putting the parts together from the original bolt that it was a M10 x 1.5 x 90.
That makes sense. My uncles broke about 3/4" out side the bracket and screwed out with visegrips. I put the 100 bolt in and noticed the threads were lacking about 1/4" from reaching the back of the tensioner. It looked like the tensioner sits flush with the bracket so I didn't even try it and put the 80 in instead.
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  #20  
Old 12-10-2013, 10:40 AM
phiodiesel phiodiesel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fridgeddiesel View Post
That may be true. The next size bolt I could find was a M10 x 1.5 X 70 which is NOT long enough. My original bolt had sheared off behind the first three threads in the mounting bracket - stripping out those threads. I noticed that the 100 length bolt stuck thru the back side of the tensioner just a little with no threads. I had purchased an M10 split lock washer that brought that non threaded part back into the tensioner housing. I attached the tensioner to the mounting bracket on the work bench with out the washer and it sucked up tight so I did not use the washer. Probably due to the first three threads being stripped out.

I would guess from putting the parts together from the original bolt that it was a M10 x 1.5 x 90.
I'm having the same issue with my 92 F250. I tried the suggested bolt (CHS 8.8) without the locknut, and the bolt still broke after leaving the truck for an extended idle in my driveway. Does anyone have a backup original bolt that I could buy or have? Thanks
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  #21  
Old 12-10-2013, 07:09 PM
fridgeddiesel fridgeddiesel is offline
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You need to find a Class 12.9 metric bolt or at least a Class 10.9 would be strong enough but Class 12.9 is stronger. Class 10.9 I believe is about a Grade 8 English bolt. Class 10.9 and 12.9 are both heat treated alloy bolts like Grade 8 bolts. Class 8.8 is so soft it will shear off as it did. Class 8.8 bolts are basically worthless for anything that has to be torqued tight or has a lot of shear applied to it. It is confusing and I have made the mistake several times going from English Grade bolts to Metric Class bolts. You grab a Class 8.8 bolt thinking it is a Grade 8 hardened bolt and the next thing you know it is sheared off in the engine and you are having to extract it or worse drill it out and tap it to the next size up...
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  #22  
Old 12-10-2013, 07:42 PM
phiodiesel phiodiesel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fridgeddiesel View Post
You need to find a Class 12.9 metric bolt or at least a Class 10.9 would be strong enough but Class 12.9 is stronger. Class 10.9 I believe is about a Grade 8 English bolt. Class 10.9 and 12.9 are both heat treated alloy bolts like Grade 8 bolts. Class 8.8 is so soft it will shear off as it did. Class 8.8 bolts are basically worthless for anything that has to be torqued tight or has a lot of shear applied to it. It is confusing and I have made the mistake several times going from English Grade bolts to Metric Class bolts. You grab a Class 8.8 bolt thinking it is a Grade 8 hardened bolt and the next thing you know it is sheared off in the engine and you are having to extract it or worse drill it out and tap it to the next size up...
Thanks for your response! Where would i find a grade 12.9 or 10.9? I'm in the southeastern US
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  #23  
Old 12-10-2013, 08:14 PM
fridgeddiesel fridgeddiesel is offline
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A decent auto parts or hardware store with a large selection of bolts may stock Class 10.9 or 12.9 bolts. I still have a Class 8.8 bolt in my tensioner because that is all I could find locally and it is holding. Not my first choice to use so I carry an extra in my truck just in case but that was what I could come up with at local hardware store. We have a new Tractor Supply in our town and they actually have some Class 12.9 bolts in stock. If you can not find one locally maybe you can have a store order what you need or order it over the internet.

Do you have something else going on causing too much tension on the tensioner? Such as the wrong idler wheel somewhere? The lower right (side of motor) should be a grooved idler and not a smooth idler. I think I originally broke my tensioner bolt due to the fact that I threw the lower right idler on the road and replaced it with a spare smooth one that I had in the truck. This makes the belt too tight and might have been the cause of my problem. See if you have two smooth and one grooved idlers - at least on the 94-97 Powerstroke.
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  #24  
Old 12-10-2013, 08:36 PM
phiodiesel phiodiesel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fridgeddiesel View Post
A decent auto parts or hardware store with a large selection of bolts may stock Class 10.9 or 12.9 bolts. I still have a Class 8.8 bolt in my tensioner because that is all I could find locally and it is holding. Not my first choice to use so I carry an extra in my truck just in case but that was what I could come up with at local hardware store. We have a new Tractor Supply in our town and they actually have some Class 12.9 bolts in stock. If you can not find one locally maybe you can have a store order what you need or order it over the internet.

Do you have something else going on causing too much tension on the tensioner? Such as the wrong idler wheel somewhere? The lower right (side of motor) should be a grooved idler and not a smooth idler. I think I originally broke my tensioner bolt due to the fact that I threw the lower right idler on the road and replaced it with a spare smooth one that I had in the truck. This makes the belt too tight and might have been the cause of my problem. See if you have two smooth and one grooved idlers - at least on the 94-97 Powerstroke.
I just found a store and I'll look for tractor supply ones too. I think that my issue is vibration... I have a 92 and run it on biodiesel, and I haven't run the truck in a few weeks since the old bolt broke and I couldn't figure out how to get access to the sheared bolt. Having already replaced two, I'm now a veteran, and will try my best to get a 12.9 bolt tomorrow. I'll let you know what I find!
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  #25  
Old 12-10-2013, 10:09 PM
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Maybe you should try the SD dual tensioner mod, it smooths things out.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/982314.pdf
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