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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #46  
Old 02-12-2012, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattie2294 View Post
What I'm saying is go with f1 front fenders rear fenders running boards an box what am I going to run into shorten the frame or is there other major issues ??
Oh sorry, I misunderstood..shortening the frame of an F3 to run the F1 bed and fenders is quite common and no issues really. There are several guys that can give you more details about that route. hopefully they will catch this and comment.
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  #47  
Old 02-12-2012, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff and Nicolle View Post
Oh sorry, I misunderstood..shortening the frame of an F3 to run the F1 bed and fenders is quite common and no issues really. There are several guys that can give you more details about that route. hopefully they will catch this and comment.
Thanks alot . Hopefully they do I'm wondering if I run f1 running boards fenders and box if shortening the frame is all ill have to
Do
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  #48  
Old 02-13-2012, 01:19 AM
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Yes, you will have to shorten the frame by something like 13" or so from what I remember reading. Don't quote me on the length however. It's been done before. However, finding F1 sheetmetal and bed will almost require you to buy an F1 parts truck. At that point, you may as well build the F1. The F250 rear end that you pulled out of the parts truck will be too wide for the F1 box and fenders.

You may as well just continue your build as is and be different.
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  #49  
Old 02-13-2012, 10:10 AM
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Yes, you will have to shorten the frame by something like 13" or so from what I remember reading. Don't quote me on the length however. It's been done before. However, finding F1 sheetmetal and bed will almost require you to buy an F1 parts truck. At that point, you may as well build the F1. The F250 rear end that you pulled out of the parts truck will be too wide for the F1 box and fenders.

You may as well just continue your build as is and be different.
The only reason I was thinking on making a change is because I can get a origonal refurb. box with the oak installed and everything, fenders, running boards, and tail gate all for around $4500 ready for paint and everything.

But if I can fit F-1 rear fenders on my set up and them just be a bit wider then that would probably work as well. (do you know if the F-1 rears would work??) since the rear fenders is my major issues that and a tailgate which hopefully will turn up some time soon.

I do think I probably will keep plugging forward since I found a set of mint running boards ready to sand and paint.

Different is always good.
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  #50  
Old 02-13-2012, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff and Nicolle View Post
Oh sorry, I misunderstood..shortening the frame of an F3 to run the F1 bed and fenders is quite common and no issues really. There are several guys that can give you more details about that route. hopefully they will catch this and comment.
So with your set up with F-1 rear fenders, are you using F-3 running boards and how do they fit with those F-1 rears. I can get F-1 rear fenders new from a place here in town and if I could use those rears and just be a bit wider in the year and thats all that would be the ticket
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  #51  
Old 02-13-2012, 10:37 AM
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The front of F2-F3 rear fenders tuck underneath the bed, because the F2-F3 bed is wider. The fenders are also notched from front to back (section removed) where they tuck underneath the F2-F3 bed in order to accomodate for the wider bed.

If you were to add the F1 rear fenders to your F2-F3 bed, the fenders will not tuck underneath the bed, like F2-F3 do, and they will stick out further, thus needing to modify the running boards at the fender connection. However, if you cut, notch and tuck the F1 fenders the same as F2-F3 fenders, then you won't need to mofify the running booards where they connect to the rear fenders.

For $4500, you should be able to find a decent F1 to start with.

I have a solid F2-F3 tailgate, but it requires some body work. If you can't find one locally, then PM or email me if you're interested in seeing more pictures.

Click the image to open in full size.

Finding decent F2-F3 sheetmetal, especially a tailgate and running boards, can be hard. You seem to be half way there with finding the running boards.
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  #52  
Old 02-13-2012, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattie2294 View Post
Thanks alot . Hopefully they do I'm wondering if I run f1 running boards fenders and box if shortening the frame is all ill have to
Do
Here's the scoop on converting your F-3 to an F-1.

Cut the frame just behind the cab with a 'Z' cut, take out 8 inches and weld the frame back together. I took the 8 inch frame section and welded it back to the inside of the frame rail for extra strength. This reduces the wheelbase from 122 inches to 114. Next, cut 12 inches of frame off the rear (the F3 has more rear overhang than the F-1). Now the frame is exactly the same as an F-1. When the 8 inches comes out, the rearmost running board support bracket moves up so that F-1 running boards bolt on which means that you don't have to remove or replace running board brackets. An F-1 bed and rear fenders will bolt on. If you have good F-3 fenders up front you can keep them if you don't mind the extra wheel space cutout or you can replace them with F-1 fenders. You will want to replace the rear fenders with F-1s since they are wider than F-3 rear fenders. Actually, I like having a converted F-3 because the frame is thicker and heavier.

This is my 48 F-3 fully converted to F-1...

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #53  
Old 02-13-2012, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by GreatNorthWoods View Post
Here's the scoop on converting your F-3 to an F-1.

Cut the frame just behind the cab with a 'Z' cut, take out 8 inches and weld the frame back together. I took the 8 inch frame section and welded it back to the inside of the frame rail for extra strength. This reduces the wheelbase from 122 inches to 114. Next, cut 12 inches of frame off the rear (the F3 has more rear overhang than the F-1). Now the frame is exactly the same as an F-1. When the 8 inches comes out, the rearmost running board support bracket moves up so that F-1 running boards bolt on which means that you don't have to remove or replace running board brackets. An F-1 bed and rear fenders will bolt on. If you have good F-3 fenders up front you can keep them if you don't mind the extra wheel space cutout or you can replace them with F-1 fenders. You will want to replace the rear fenders with F-1s since they are wider than F-3 rear fenders. Actually, I like having a converted F-3 because the frame is thicker and heavier.

This is my 48 F-3 fully converted to F-1...

Click the image to open in full size.
THANKS!.
Exactly what I was looking for. You make it sound so simple and easy. Haha

Now what did you do for drive line.. Can I stick with my stock drive line and rear end and everything and it will still fit with it converted to an F-1 box set up correct? Since the fenders will be wider anyway I dont see why it wouldn't fit? Did you do an F-1 rear end or what did you end up doing?

Again thanks a ton.
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  #54  
Old 02-13-2012, 11:17 AM
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Ford 9" out of a 57-72 F100 fits perfectly under an F1 box. You'll need F2/F3 rear shock mounts to add to the 9" rear end.

If you change out to the 9", you'll have different bolt patterns on front and rear. Rear would be 5x5.5. You'll need to change out the drive shaft to one from an F1 or get yours shortened.
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  #55  
Old 02-13-2012, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattie2294 View Post
THANKS!.
Exactly what I was looking for. You make it sound so simple and easy. Haha

Now what did you do for drive line.. Can I stick with my stock drive line and rear end and everything and it will still fit with it converted to an F-1 box set up correct? Since the fenders will be wider anyway I dont see why it wouldn't fit? Did you do an F-1 rear end or what did you end up doing?

Again thanks a ton.
It is relatively simple. The hard part (psychologically) is hacking your frame in half! My truck is fully darksided with Volare front and rear end and Chevy 350 but I see no reason why you could not use the original drive train. The only things I would question is the width of the F-3 rear using F-1 rear fenders and, of course, you would have to shorten the driveshaft...
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  #56  
Old 02-13-2012, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan View Post
Ford 9" out of a 57-72 F100 fits perfectly under an F1 box. You'll need F2/F3 rear shock mounts to add to the 9" rear end.

If you change out to the 9", you'll have different bolt patterns on front and rear. Rear would be 5x5.5. You'll need to change out the drive shaft to one from an F1 or get yours shortened.
Will my 12" fit ? Or not and why so?
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  #57  
Old 02-13-2012, 12:09 PM
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F2+/F250+ rear ends are wider than F1/F100. If you use the F250 rear end under an F1 box/fenders, the tires/wheels will stick out past the F1 fenders.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan View Post
F2+/F250+ rear ends are wider than F1/F100. If you use the F250 rear end under an F1 box/fenders, the tires/wheels will stick out past the F1 fenders.
Okay fair enough ,
So if I get a rear end out of an F-100 will my stock tranny from my F-3 work or with it or not?
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  #59  
Old 02-13-2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattie2294 View Post
Okay fair enough ,
So if I get a rear end out of an F-100 will my stock tranny from my F-3 work or with it or not?
It should work fine. The drive shaft would be the only issue.
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  #60  
Old 02-13-2012, 01:35 PM
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I was reading Ilya's post about tucking the rear fenders under the bed? I need a picture of what you mean there.
I have my F1 rear fenders('48-early '50) setting up against my F3 bed. they fit against the bedside just like the F3 fenders. Now they ARE wider than the F2/F3 fenders aprox 2'-2.5" (can't remember which) If you had a 3/4 ton newer axle that is wider than the original timken rear axle, or used a wheel spacer that changed the bolt pattern to a non widowmaker wheel, You may be in business for cheap. I personally would go with a newer rear 3/4 ton axle, if it would work. Everybody says the newer 3/4 ton axle is too wide. But with the 8' F3 bed and F1 fenders, there is an extra 4' or 5" overall, of width inside the fenders. Just a thought..some of you may think it looks wierd with the extra width, but I don't think it's as odd as you may picture in your mind. I will try to find a pic of mine with this setup. The running board issue is just some metal work for the contour of the fender. I am using the F3 boards, but adding the end of an F1 rear section(running board) just the contour part at the rear fender. Right now my F3 boards are squared off at the rear end. and I could use them that way as well.
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