Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #151  
Old 08-12-2013, 07:04 PM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Horvaths View Post
I'll suggest that you ask if they can dynamically balance what you are going to run with then. Preferably from the pulleys to the pressure plate. Especially if you're going to make it rock and roll. But, you probably already know that.


Edit - Are you going with a serpentine belt?
It was a good suggestion for sure, he suggested to static and dynamic balance the engine to ensure the most horsepower.

The belts are going to be the same stock setup for now. However I have to still figure out exactly how my power steering pump off the TCI frame is going to mate together with my engine system.

Edit: No worries about the power steering pump not going with power steering anymore going old school Manuel.

Last edited by Mattie2294; 08-19-2013 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Revised Build
Reply With Quote
  #152  
Old 09-23-2013, 12:29 AM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Frame Arrives

Well good evening to everyone out there. I got a call yesterday from Watson's Hot Rod Parts informing me that my frame had just arrived.

Now I have just got back home after picking up my TCI frame.
They really have done a great job with there frames and if your looking to do an extensive suspension upgrade a few extra thousand and a complete frame could be a great option.

It really makes it hard to have to wait to get started full force back into my project. Anyways here are some pictures of the frame. (My camera died so sorry they are not that great)

Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #153  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:27 AM
MCarlson MCarlson is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Mt. Home, ID
Posts: 270
MCarlson is starting off with a positive reputation.
Nice and shiny. Of course, now you're going to miss out on the fun of driving the pins holding your original shackles in place out.
Can't wait to see the engine. Mine didn't come with one, so going the 302 route was an easy decision.
Mike
__________________
MCarlson

1994 Bronco
1952 F3
2000 Honda Transalp
Reply With Quote
  #154  
Old 10-11-2013, 01:18 PM
Tilleyman's Avatar
Tilleyman Tilleyman is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lewisberry, PA
Posts: 58
Tilleyman is starting off with a positive reputation.
Holy cow... I just found this thread, and I had to subscribe. Rebuilding a '52 F3 myself, started in March '13. Hope I finish it while I can still drive!!
Reply With Quote
  #155  
Old 06-21-2014, 04:01 PM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Back at it..

After a lot of busy months I finally got back on the Ford project train I setup my frame today (pictures to come laer);however, I have ran into some parts of un sure if I'm not sure where they go. They are labelled r sway bar. Can any help explain or upload pictures?!?! Thanks you!!!

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #156  
Old 06-21-2014, 05:36 PM
Rimrock F1's Avatar
Rimrock F1 Rimrock F1 is online now
Elder User
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Rimrock AZ
Posts: 564
Rimrock F1 has a very good reputation on FTE.Rimrock F1 has a very good reputation on FTE.Rimrock F1 has a very good reputation on FTE.
That is the rear sway bar. Here is a photo.

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
Mike.
1952 F-1 (Belle Pepper)
1956 Fairlane (Orreo)
2013 Taurus (Ginger)
Reply With Quote
  #157  
Old 06-21-2014, 09:47 PM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rimrock F1 View Post
That is the rear sway bar. Here is a photo.

Click the image to open in full size.
Thank you sir!!! I have a few more questions that hopefully someone can answer I'll post later on hopefully. 85 percent done as of today will be finished tomorrow!
Reply With Quote
  #158  
Old 06-22-2014, 10:53 AM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Frame Build (Rear End)

Started by un-packing all the materials and spreading them out.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Then I got the frame all cut loose and blocked up level.


Click the image to open in full size.

Then got started by adjusting all the 4-link bars to 1/2" extended on each one. Got all the bars installed and lifted the rear end into place using a floor jack.


Click the image to open in full size.

Once it was lifted I installed all the bars and set the offset on each side to be the same. (Not exactly sure what the procedure is for setting your offset and getting the rear end completely true??? Not really an issue now since I will be disassembling the entire thing for paint and reassembling before the final product is finished.)

Click the image to open in full size.

Lastly I installed the sway bars and put on some mustang winter wheels to roll the frame around for now.

Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.

That was it for the rear end. I have started the front end as well and will post pictures later today!
Reply With Quote
  #159  
Old 06-22-2014, 11:00 AM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Brakes

** After I flipped the brakes to there correct side and snugged everything down it all seems to fit into place nicely.

Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.

***Now to fix camber angle are there special plates to push the top slotted connect outwards (move the top of the wheel out so they don't bow in?) or do I just use the extra washers that I have and add until camber angle is correct?!?!

Hopefully the setup I have started is correct. Let me know if you see anything out of place (Other than the brakes that were on the wrong side haha) ..

Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #160  
Old 06-22-2014, 01:39 PM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
NEED HELP!?!?!

I am doing the finishing touches and trying to get the manual rack installed; however, there is two large holes in the rack that I think should have a rubber or some sort of fitting. Below is all the parts I was given. I think if it is just a bolt and a washer on either side the rack will have some much room to move back and forth. Does anyone have any information or pictures of this setup?!?!


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.

EDIT ***Found the answer I am missing a rubber that is to be placed inside the rack.

Last edited by Mattie2294; 06-24-2014 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Solved the problem
Reply With Quote
  #161  
Old 06-24-2014, 01:46 PM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Front End

I began installation of the front end by installing the lower and upper control arms. As well as installing the shock into the slot of the lower control arm.

Click the image to open in full size.

I have heard many horror stories about springs and coils so I went out and bought a spring compressor from the local NAPPA (Just my luck it was on sale).

Now I tried compressing the spring enough to fit it into place and I literally had it compressed almost to a single block of steel. Then I realized that you can pull on the top of the shock and the bolt will extend out (This makes it so you only need to compress the spring a little bit).

**BIGGEST TIP DO NOT COMPRESS THE SPRING TO A SOLID BLOCK OF STEEL PULL ON THE SHOCK AND EXTEND IT OUT FULLY FIRST.**

Needless to say the second side went alot more smooth. Lastly I placed the brakes and snugged everything tight.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I then connected the tie rods and got the wheels close to centered up.

Now I placed the rack on the frame and snugged it up using the bolt and washer (I will need to remove and install the rubber bushing when I receive it, since my package didn't include them). Another rookie mistake was placing the rack before fining its center point. Finding the center while it is on the frame is alot more difficult then it would have been to do it on a bench.

**TIP 2 FIND THE CENTER OF YOUR RACK BEFORE YOU PLACE IT ON THE FRAME**

Either way we managed to find the center by turning the wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right. Adding the two and dividing it out equally between the two wheels.

Everything was mock fit and all that was left was final adjustments. Took some frame to wheel measurements using a straight edge and a square to get the wheels running true.

I have not set camber yet since I am not sure if I should use washers and add them until the camber is correct or if there is a special way to do it.

Everything was complete, however the alignment would need to be checked and re checked. I have to disassemble the frame anyways for paint so I just got everything close.

Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #162  
Old 06-24-2014, 01:51 PM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Final Frame Assembly

Here is the final frame assembly.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #163  
Old 06-24-2014, 02:04 PM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Front End Removal

Now that I have the frame completely mock built it was time to disassemble the 52's front end. I started by removing the front wheels to get access to all the bolts (FYI: Yes there was a lot of bolts holding the front end on). I sprayed all the bolts and let them sit in PB Blaster for a few minutes to hopefully loosen them up. Then I removed all the bolts using various techniques (Bolts from 52 are not a smooth to come off as new shiny ones). In the end I got the front end removed after a few hours per panel.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Slid the grill ontop of the new frame and look at that ride height (Yes darkside may have got me on that one).

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #164  
Old 06-25-2014, 01:19 PM
Mattie2294's Avatar
Mattie2294 Mattie2294 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 117
Mattie2294 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Cab Removal

Kept the ball rolling last night and removed the cab from the 52's body. I removed:
-4 front bolts from cab to frame
-2 back bolts from cab extension plates to frame extension plates
-The entire steering box. Another option was to unbolt the wheel and pull the steering column out the bottom but it would have to be blocked up or held way higher.
-The shifter
-The parking brake
-Peddle plates removed to allow the peddles to pass through.

Once all these were removed I pulled a sling from door to door and lifted with the Bobcat.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now my next step is to clean up all the parts I am going to be using and inventory everything I need to purchase. A company here where I live is going to swap my old frame and parts for a discount on some of my new ones. I plan on dropping it off mid to late August and picking up everything I need.

FYI: Engine is in progress and I am planning to go mid to late July to pick it up.
Reply With Quote
  #165  
Old 06-25-2014, 02:00 PM
Rimrock F1's Avatar
Rimrock F1 Rimrock F1 is online now
Elder User
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Rimrock AZ
Posts: 564
Rimrock F1 has a very good reputation on FTE.Rimrock F1 has a very good reputation on FTE.Rimrock F1 has a very good reputation on FTE.
You're really coming along! To answer a couple of your questions, use washers to set your camber. Use a long bolt or rod of the correct diameter through both ends of all the 4 link bars, this way they are all exactly the same length. If you measure the fist one then insert the long bolts and adjust each remaining bar so it slides over the bolt.
__________________
Mike.
1952 F-1 (Belle Pepper)
1956 Fairlane (Orreo)
2013 Taurus (Ginger)
Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 02:00 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
1952, 51, 52, adjustment, box, child, engine, ford, guidelines, powered, signals, steering, support, swap, truck, turn, vbulletin, york

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'56 Frame Build with Crown Vic front end CTom 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 30 08-28-2014 03:38 PM
Love some suggestions. 1952 ford f3 build. Mattie2294 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 38 05-30-2013 01:05 PM
New intake for my truck... Sparky83 Projects 25 11-01-2012 08:20 PM
budget ranger GR$$N$ Ranger & B-Series 6 10-10-2012 02:39 PM
MY New 2011 f250 with 6"lift Pics davidbjcu Super Duty & Heavy Duty 7 01-02-2012 08:33 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup