Look what I found under Valve Cover PICS
#17
Wonder how long he drove with a bad waterpump? Reason i say that, is i bought a 97 tahoe few years back..(comparing apples to pears here), that the owner said it needed a pump, so no biggie, did the pump, flushed coolant..etc, just to have to keep adding coolant. Pulled the dipstick on a hunch and bam, saw same crap your seeing. Ran some head-gasket sealant thru cooling system, and what you know, but another 60k on that motor before..(hard miles too, towing, river runs in 100+*..etc) dump8ing it off to a buddy...(he knew what was done).
#18
Removal of the oil cooler sounds like the next step. I will work on it tonight and post pics. Could coolant get into the oil and oil get into the coolant (both ways) from a bad oil cooler? I've been researching about the cooler, most common issue seems to be oil going into coolant (due to higher pressure).
The area of the front cover behind the WP looks ok. What you don't want to see is this
#19
Got the oil cooler removed from engine. Removed both ends with a few taps from a rubber mallet. All four o-rings looked to be in good shape. Maybe I'll try to find someone who knows how to pressure test it.
Thanks for all the replies so far. Thinking about pulling heads next. Wonder if this could be just a head gasket issue? I'll find out more from the owner concerning how long he drove it with a bad waterpump.
Thanks for all the replies so far. Thinking about pulling heads next. Wonder if this could be just a head gasket issue? I'll find out more from the owner concerning how long he drove it with a bad waterpump.
#21
Thereafter, it sits for a while with about 16 psi. until it starts cooling off.
That's the period when stuff goes the other way.
Pop
#22
#25
Decided to go ahead and pull the engine. Here's a few pics:
Three out of the four injectors on the passenger side had bad bottom orings (cracked & split). I don't think this was the cause of the cross contamination of the oil & coolant. Inspected the injector cups with a camera bore scope, no visible cracks. Haven't pulled the driver's side injectors yet. Plan on putting the engine on a stand and removing heads next. Had to order a new heavy duty stand. These are heavy,heavy engines. Was afraid to put on it my current stand rated at 750lbs. Figured it would break right over.
The removal of the engine was straightforward and uneventful. Easy,easy after getting front end removed.(bumper, headlights, top brace, ps cooler, tranny cooler, intercooler, radiator etc.) Was able to keep all A/C lines intact.
Pops- thanks for the explanation ref the oil cooler. Maybe the cooler is bad inside.
I asked the owner why he originally changed the waterpump. He advised that the temp gauge got near the red a couple of times and that each time, he would pull over and let it cool down. That's why he changed the waterpump in the first place. After changing the waterpump, he would drive it and had to keep adding coolant - thought he didn't get it full on initial fill. (I'm thinking cracked heads and/or gaskets -hopefully not a cracked block).
Will update in about a week, work takes me away for a few days.
Thanks again for the input.
Three out of the four injectors on the passenger side had bad bottom orings (cracked & split). I don't think this was the cause of the cross contamination of the oil & coolant. Inspected the injector cups with a camera bore scope, no visible cracks. Haven't pulled the driver's side injectors yet. Plan on putting the engine on a stand and removing heads next. Had to order a new heavy duty stand. These are heavy,heavy engines. Was afraid to put on it my current stand rated at 750lbs. Figured it would break right over.
The removal of the engine was straightforward and uneventful. Easy,easy after getting front end removed.(bumper, headlights, top brace, ps cooler, tranny cooler, intercooler, radiator etc.) Was able to keep all A/C lines intact.
Pops- thanks for the explanation ref the oil cooler. Maybe the cooler is bad inside.
I asked the owner why he originally changed the waterpump. He advised that the temp gauge got near the red a couple of times and that each time, he would pull over and let it cool down. That's why he changed the waterpump in the first place. After changing the waterpump, he would drive it and had to keep adding coolant - thought he didn't get it full on initial fill. (I'm thinking cracked heads and/or gaskets -hopefully not a cracked block).
Will update in about a week, work takes me away for a few days.
Thanks again for the input.
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