I'm going to be buying a new truck soon.I'm to scared of the fuel pump problems with the 6.7 so I think what I want to do is find a 2006-07 6.0 with around 60k-80k miles and fix the known problems with it before it breaks.So if you were going to build the most reliable 6.0 what would you do to it?EGR delete?ARP studs?Fixed fin turbo?etc.

 

You are going to get many differing opinions on this one. ARP's for sure. I have had exceptional luck with aftermarket headgaskets (Hypermax), but lots of people use the FoMoCo stuff with great success.

EGR deletes were the only way to go, now people (myself included) are seeing success with BPD EGR coolers.

The most reliable, higher mileage truck we have is my brothers '05. ARP's, Hypermaxes, BPD EGR cooler, Spearco intercooler, coolant filter, MBRP 4", Delo conventional every 3k, Stanadyne or Diesel Kleen in every tank since new. ARP's, HG's, and EGR/Oil coolers done at 40k. 165k now on original injectors, turbo, FICM, HPOP, even the EGR valve. (the turbo and EGR were both cleaned at 40k, but I honestly can say they looked good). Truck runs hard and has never left anyone stranded, ever.

You can make them reliable so many different ways, it really is just personal preference.

 

I enjoyed reading your reply. I am glad to see an actual bulletproof testimony. I have a 6800.00 quote to do a complete bulletproof job on my 6.0. This included putting a rebuilt HPOP back in as well. I only have 55,000 on mine w/ no problems, but I am gonna go ahead and do it now just to save on a ridiculous 8000.00 job from the dealership to repair a blown head gasket, only to put OEM Parts back in.

 

6,800??? Man sounds to me more like your getting screwed. Where do you live? I just done ARP'S with new oil cooler, BPD EGR cooler, coolant flush, A few hours Diagnosis time, 2 new GP harnesses, 8 new glow plugs, new coolant degas bottle cap, new thermistat, Rocker arm gaskets, and Machine shop labor to check heads for craks and flatness. Also installed new VGT connector and new cam sensor (customer had pulled them out before he brought the truck to me). Total bill was $3,200 parts and labor.

Why would you put a rebuilt HPOP on? There are very few failures on HPOP. Unless you have the 03 style (even those really don't fail that offten). And even if you have the 03 that pretty much a waist of money to replaces it just because. The part that fails on the 03 pump really doesn't have much to do with age, so replacing it might just be putting one in there that will fail VS the one that at this time has nothing wrong with it.

 

well said Scotty.

hopefully that shop isn't in Ga.

 

I would buy it and drive it. If anything shows the need to be addressed then I would fix it. Why fix it if it ain't broke? You could spend 6800 on these upgrades and then something you never planned on going fails. And you spent 6800 and still have a truck in the shop

 

Spend about 10% of the money you have and get gauges. Get a scangauge II or an Edge Insight. Then add a fuel pressure gauge and EGT gauge.

If you really want to spend the money, have a look at AutoEnginuity too.

With those tools you'll be able to see the coolant temp, the oil temp, FICM volts, battery volts, boost and fuel pressure. With the ability to see those items you'll be able to spot anything that could become an issue and address it as required.
If something like a plugged oil cooler is revealed by the gauges, then yes it could be viewed as a good idea to do the studs while you are in there.

Written from the perspective of someone with not a lot of disposable income right now. If times were better and cash was not an issue then I might look to do what you are doing. Just remember, the success of the bulletproofing lies with the quality of the work done and how good the mechanic is, as much as the selection of parts and options.

 

Bullet Proofing can be as simple as using the right fluids, filters, and maintenance intervals.

I have 165k miles... no bullet proofing required.