a little background on this truck
I bought it for $280 (what a steal!)
I have previously owned a 67 300 f-100 ($350), a 79 351M f-150 ($500), a 88 ranger($450), and a 89 f-350 351W ($500) and almost everything I drive is Ford
today I wanted to check out the timing/cap/plugs etc as the engine knocks under load after it has warmed up
I searched and found this link for 302 firing order/cylinder numbering http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/35...-order-v8.html
I went outside and started to inspect my wires, etc and found that the number 2 and number 6 wires were unattached at the plug, just hanging from the tip of plug
according to my wire layout the firing order is...wait for it..
8 1 5 4 2 6 3 7
and it should be
1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8
what is going on??!
you can see in pic number 8 wire is attached to where it says "1" on the cap!
I have been driving this truck like this for weeks and it just knocks sometimes, not all the time
?? and it gets great gas mileage??
here's back of truck showing that somebody did some trailering with it ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
any help appreciated!
thanks
EDIT:
uh-oh, I changed firing order to 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8
and it wont start?!
clips on dist are in-between the 11-12 oclock and 5-6 oclock just like it says in that 302 firing order html
EDIT AGAIN:
yeah, it will only run with #8 plug wire into "1" on cap?!
i'm assuming the distributor or some other timing component is out of whack...
I don't remember exactly where it's at (it's up at the top of the mountains someplace, might be at Eisenhower Tunnel) but the Colorado State Patrol has got a trucker check point/stopping area up there, and there are all sorts of pictures on the walls of some of the wrecks people have gotten into and the people killed going *down* the mountains.
They're pretty serious about this kind of stuff here, and you can find yourself getting arrested as a public threat if your equipment, skills and/or training appear unsafe to the CSP.
Those are the same firing "orders", just different starting points. So, if the dizzy is in a tooth or two off you could easily have moved the point on the dizzy cap where #1 is supposed to be. IOW, all is well since you have two problems offsetting each other.
But, you may want to make sure the wires actually do get the spark to the plugs by pushing them firmly onto the plug. And, you should check the initial timing to make sure it is where it ought to be.
If you want to fix both problems, which isn't necessary at all, then you'll have to pull the dizzy and get it back on the cam where it is supposed to be. However, unless you are bored and looking for something to do I'd suggest you leave it alone. The wires don't know where they are supposed to be on the cap, so don't tell them.
My dad had a 1987 F150 with a 302, C6, and an 8.8 w/3.73's. He once towed a 1963 Chevy C10 4x2 with it, as well as numerous Camaros, a 1976 Cutlass, a 1977 Cutlass, and at least 50 other vehicles. That truck always took it like a champ, but it was better optioned then your truck is, and it was always just for 10-20 minutes drives, never cross country.
As has been said, with your combo, towing is a definite no go. My F150 has 2.75's, and I wouldn't even try to pull a lawnmower with those gears.
__________________
Shaun
-1980 Ford F150 Ranger Lariat
-2003 Ford Ranger Edge Plus
ok
well, I may sell it but i don't want to cause it rides like a T-bird, it was cheap, and the motor/trans are in great condition for their age.
the motor doesn't smoke or use oil
only issue is the pinging/knocking when warm
oh, let me also say I only use 89 octane gas from Exxon, Shell, etc no cheap gas and no 87 octane.
that's why the pinging worries me...
gonna check the timing this morning as I suspect the pinging is either advanced timing or perhaps vapor-lock as it doesn't like to start after it's warmed up.
I already went over the vacuum lines as when I first got it some were just unhooked or broken.
to be sure though, the only way I could set this truck up to tow is to get better springs, lower rear gear, and maybe HD tires.
but even then it shouldn't tow a big van so we'll see
I may do it just to do it
Doesn't use oil, gets good fuel mileage, sounds like the engine is good mechanically. I bet your pinging problem is the EGR has been disconnected or is inoperative. Checking the timing is a good thing also, but if it's in spec, check the EGR.
oh really?
I hadn't thought of the EGR..
I have messed with it but when I was checking vacuum leaks and made sure it moved back and forth as it looks old.
the other thing is that it idles fast, even after I tried lowering the idle via adjustment screw on carb. I had previously adjusted the electric choke as it was too far closed when cold but maybe it needs to be opened a bit more.
advanced timing could make the idle go up or no?
this truck is a very confusing specimen as it has a swiss-cheese frame with 3 or 4 inch holes drilled throughout I assume for lightening it and many other things like the 2.75 rear and the fact that I believe it has very soft springs as it doesn't ride like a truck, but then it also has many things from the factory that have it set-up to do towing...?!
a swiss-cheese frame, which I have never seen on an f-series is definitely not conducive to towing, nor the 2.75 rear.
In the end it seems it was made for highway cruising and some light towing, maybe a small camper.
I mentioned earlier that I have already used it to haul thousands of pounds of scrap steel and oak firewood and it carried those loads better and seemed to have more power than my f-350 with 351W and C6 tranny and I'm sure a lower rear.
Don't worry about the swiss-cheese frame. I had one, and like you I abused it and it never failed. It won't affect towing either.
Most of these trucks have a soft ride, it's the way the rear springs are designed. They have very light springs for a good empty ride, and one large flat heavy one on the bottom. So when loaded the truck's upper light springs will flatten out against the heavy lower spring and give it load carrying ability(but it will let the rear of the truck sag down some).
If you found and installed a different rearend in this thing, I would be more confident that you could make it. A 3.50 is a very common one and should be easy to find. If your rearend has no bolts showing from the rear view, you have a Ford 9 inch. All you would have to do is pull the axles out either side, take the front bolts out, take the 2.75 center section out and install the 3.50 in it's place and put it all back together.
You could also buy a set of helper springs to bolt onto the springs you have, and that would stiffen it up for the trip, and then you could disconnect them later for a better ride.
Yes, changing out the center section, the differential, is pretty easy as Dave said. And, you do have a 2.75 geared 9" from that info. So, if you've done it before this should be basically the same as the 9" was used in '79 and that's probably what you've already worked on.
The biggest problem I've had in removing the diff is just in getting it to break loose from the housing. To do that I've used a jack under the front of the casting, but not the yoke as that puts the force on the bearings. However, when it does come loose there will be a torrent of ugly gear lube and it will make a big, stinky mess. If it is up to capacity there will be 6.5 pints of the stuff, and while not all of it will come out, enough will to cause a lot of cleanup unless you put a pan of some kind under there to catch it.
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