CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE EASIST WAY TO CONVERT MY 90 F-350 2WD FROM 8 LUG TO 5 LUG WILL A 1/2 TON REAR END JUST BOLT UP AND IS IT AS EASY AS SWAPPING THE ROTORS ON THE FRONT. I AM GOING TO 5 LUG FOR BETTER WHEEL SELECTION. AANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
THANKS A NEWBIE

 

I am pretty sure you can swap in a 9" or 8.8 very easily. However If it was me, I'd keep the eight lug. I might even consider getting a Dana 60 front and converting it to 4x4.

 

If your converting to the 5bolt I hope you don't planning loading it any more then you would a 1/2ton

 

I would never do this in a million years. Someone is likely to look at the badges, assume it's an F-350, load it up like it is, and then die when the axles snap underneath it while towing a 15000# gooseneck.

But yes, you need a 1/2 ton rear axle, the correct driveshaft, and front knuckles, spindles and rotors.

 

I have a 1994 F150 4x2 with a 300 I6 and M5OD transmission.

I already have the Donor 3/4 ton stirling axle in the back, and even swapped in the rear Anti-Sway Bar from the donor truck (4wd, so no front axle for me)

I have a 1979 set of spindles, discs, calipers, IBeams, Coils, and shocks from an extended cab F250 (2WD) and wondered what would be required to install the 8 lug discs on my spindles?

I understand the discs would have to be turned down in diameter, which is easy enough.

I'd install the whole setup, except the steering was rear of the axle on the older truck, and my newer truck's brake hardware is mounted where I would need to mount the older steering box (which I also have, along with the steering hardware)

Is it possible to flip the left and right side hardware at the kingpin, with new bushings of course?

That would allow me to use my steering box with all of the F250 front end.

I don't want to have to carry 2 spares, and my budget does not allow for $250 for a used junk yard F150 rear...

Besides I want my truck a bit higher up front anyway, and the F250 coils will do that, especially given they are out of a truck that had a 460 engine.

Hope I have provided enough information.

My biggest question, because it seems so hard to find, is what donor vehicle I can get a correct drive shaft from due to the larger sized axle?

I assume any short wheel base 5 speed F250 from the same vintage?

The drive line alone would get me back on the road with my own truck, and would make my boss happy to have his truck back...

Thanks much.

I am near Las Vegas, NV at this time, and was shocked that all used cars/trucks and parts from yards are double or more what they cost in my home area of Olympia, WA.

Any ideas?

Eric

Edit: I understand the truck would still be an F150, weight capacity wise... due to frame and other factors staying the same.

For the record, the 1993 F250 rear axle will fit perfectly on the F150 springs, including the alignment holes, but you have to use the clamp hardware from the F250 because the F150 U-Bolts are slightly smaller diameter.

 

Don't do it. The truck has 8 lugs and 16" wheels for a reason. Eagle Alloy makes some really nice wheels for these trucks.

 

Eric,
You can get b a s t a r d (to get around the forum filters) U-joints that will fit your driveshaft and the 10.25 pinion.
If the driveshaft is the right length now it will fit fine.
I looked up this application not long ago but don't remember the number.
$30 at the drivetrain shop is a lot cheaper and easier than finding and swapping shafts.
And you would still probably have to buy a new joint.

 

I already have a new 1330 ujoint, and am willing to buy another model for the larger caps, if I have to.

I wish I could get the work done so cheap...

For some reason, parts and used vehicles are double or more what I would pay in Washington state.... that's the one thing that has sucked about moving to Nevada.

I need to move very soon, so this is really important, at least the rear axle to driveline connection..

I can wait for the rest or carry 2 spares for now.

My driveline from my measurements, and other posts on the F150 forum, is about 3" too long.

That gives me an estimated requirement of 51-1/4 inches from front of driveline (without transmission yoke) to the rear of the driveline minus the rear yoke.

I would have changed flanges to install the F150's flange, but I could not remove the u-bolt based flange from the Stirling axle after removing the retaining nut.

I should have done that while it was out of the truck.

Maybe I am blind, but it looked to me like the F150's 8.8" flange has 31 splines and the Stirling looks to be 30 spline? (Now that the 10.25 is under the truck it is hard to see well enough for an accurate count.

The nut is a different size, but the shoulder fits in the 8.8"'s flange fine.

Thanks for any help,
Eric

 

I KNOW I KNOW ACTUALLY IT WILL BE LOWERED AND I WAS PLANNING ON PUTTING F150 BADGES I DONT HAUL ANYTHING BUT A ELECTRIC WHEEL CHAIR AND THEY NEVER MADE CREW CAB F150 IN THIS STYLE TRUCK

 

Please turn your capslock off, it implies you are shouting.

If you look for Centurion Customs they built a handful of crew cab F150s. Swap the front ends and you'd be set.