1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Heavy duty headlight relays - good news!

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  #16  
Old 02-01-2012, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKirbyMan
This page intentionally left blank. (Has it ever bothered others to find that when by the very fact that it is there the statement is false?)
If I knew what Spock was smiling about I might be worried. Or maybe even smiling with him. But, since I don't I'll continue sitting in the dark.
 
  #17  
Old 02-01-2012, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
But, on the fuse/breaker subject I would lean strongly to a breaker. I believe our trucks have them, and the advantage is that your lights come back on when the breaker cools down - assuming you use the auto-reset style. In fact, having a parts truck, I may know exactly where to get some!
When I did mine, I used breakers. You can pick up some OEM type units that use spade connectors, but will not plug in to a fuse holder. You can get some aftermarket breakers that will plug in to a fuse holder, they have longer spades, so you can cut them to the length you want. I made mine from all used parts from different junk vehicles, so mostly my cost was time.
 
  #18  
Old 02-02-2012, 12:32 AM
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A Vulcan smiling is like a Chevrolet on the interstate...you never know what's gonna happen.
 
  #19  
Old 02-02-2012, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKirbyMan
A Vulcan smiling is like a Chevrolet on the interstate...you never know what's gonna happen.
Ahhhh, now I understand? Looks like he's eyeing me, which means I've be vulcanized.
 
  #20  
Old 02-02-2012, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKirbyMan
A Vulcan smiling is like a Chevrolet on the interstate...you never know what's gonna happen.
Either one can be very bad....... Or worse.
 
  #21  
Old 02-04-2012, 07:41 PM
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voltage results

just installed a homemade harness with 30 amp relays /20 amp fuses on my 86
measured with truck at idle
biggest diff was on high beam...

low beam
went from 13.4 to 14.2 volts at headlight

high beam
went from 12.6 to 13.99/14.0 volts at headlight
 
  #22  
Old 10-28-2015, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1986F150six
Some past threads have discussed the need and benefits of adding relays for the headlights in our trucks - better illumination and removing the electrical load from the headlight switch.

Some members have made-up their own harnesses while others [me] have purchased the one from LMC, which is plug-and-play. It also has been discussed that it almost impossible to find replacement relays, due to the fact that the 30A ones supplied with the LMC harness are 4 pin rather than the more common 5 pin found at most auto parts stores.

Yesterday, I received a new LMC catalog and was pleased to see a new addition... yes, the replacement relays listed right below the heavy duty harness. The part number is 47-3652 and the price is $4.95 each.

By the way, I have installed two of these systems. One in my son's 1984 F150 and the other in my 1986 F150. We have had no problems and are quite pleased with the increased brightness, due to getting full voltage to the headlights. However, you need to install a fuse in the line which feeds power to the relay. There are two such lines with each kit; one for high beams and the other for low beams. For some reason, this was omitted as delivered. A 10 or 15 amp fuse should be sufficient for any legal wattage bulbs used.
Two questions:

1) Does the stock highbeam switch (left foot) still work the same with this LMC harness installed?

2) How do you install the fuse you mention needing in each relay power line? Do you cut these wires and somehow put a fuse inline on each wire? If so, is there an easy and reliable way to install such fuses (some kind of pre-made fuse holder that crimps inline)?


 
  #23  
Old 10-28-2015, 12:57 PM
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1) yes everything works the same.
The harness uses the DS headlamp socket to trigger the harness.
2) I just used a covered inline holder -the same blade type fuse as the truck- and spliced both feeds into it.
(only one relay is on at a time)
 
  #24  
Old 10-28-2015, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
1) yes everything works the same.
The harness uses the DS headlamp socket to trigger the harness.
2) I just used a covered inline holder -the same blade type fuse as the truck- and spliced both feeds into it.
(only one relay is on at a time)
OK, thanks!

So only 1 inline fuse is required?

Something like this?:
Amazon.com: 20AMP 14AWG Wire In-line Car Automotive Blade Fuse Holder with 60cm lines with 10pcs fuse: Home Improvement Amazon.com: 20AMP 14AWG Wire In-line Car Automotive Blade Fuse Holder with 60cm lines with 10pcs fuse: Home Improvement
 
  #25  
Old 10-28-2015, 01:10 PM
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Here's a link to my post showing how I built my own harness and the auto-reset circuit breaker I installed instead of a fuse. If I had to do it over again I'd buy the harness instead of making one. But, I'd still use an auto-reset breaker so the lights will come back on if the fault is just intermittent. That's the way the auto manufacturers do it. And, I bought the breaker at O'Reilly's.
 
  #26  
Old 10-28-2015, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Here's a link to my post showing how I built my own harness and the auto-reset circuit breaker I installed instead of a fuse. If I had to do it over again I'd buy the harness instead of making one. But, I'd still use an auto-reset breaker so the lights will come back on if the fault is just intermittent. That's the way the auto manufacturers do it. And, I bought the breaker at O'Reilly's.
Thanks Gary - your pics give me a good idea of what is involved in this.
 
  #27  
Old 10-28-2015, 02:35 PM
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Galendor,

Purchase one replacement relay [36-3592], in case one of the two, which come with the kit, ever fail. They have a different pin configuration than what is normally stocked at the local automotive parts store. It has been 3+ years since I installed two systems and I have not yet experienced a failure, but I do have an extra relay for both trucks.

Good luck!
 
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