Tranny cover needed..Anyone used a fiberglass one?
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#19
Your stock steering box, pitman arm and column is worth about $125 assuming it is good shape and not excessive slop. Make sure to not mess up the threads on top for the steering wheel unless you are just letting that go with it. Use a steering wheel puller or make it someone else's problem to remove, hahaha. HAMB is probably the best place to sell it, shipping with the wheel on will be a hassle.
Using a copper backer is a real good idea to help prevent burning through. You can use alum also, but copper preferred. Just go to your local hardware store and buy a piece of copper pipe about 6 inches long. Smash one end flat and put a slight bend in it so you can hold against the metal surface. It will get hot when welding, so hold it with a glove.
Your cover is not that bad at all. Just fix it, and use the savings to buy parts you really need.
Using a copper backer is a real good idea to help prevent burning through. You can use alum also, but copper preferred. Just go to your local hardware store and buy a piece of copper pipe about 6 inches long. Smash one end flat and put a slight bend in it so you can hold against the metal surface. It will get hot when welding, so hold it with a glove.
Your cover is not that bad at all. Just fix it, and use the savings to buy parts you really need.
#20
Your stock steering box, pitman arm and column is worth about $125 assuming it is good shape and not excessive slop. Make sure to not mess up the threads on top for the steering wheel unless you are just letting that go with it. Use a steering wheel puller or make it someone else's problem to remove, hahaha. HAMB is probably the best place to sell it, shipping with the wheel on will be a hassle.
Using a copper backer is a real good idea to help prevent burning through. You can use alum also, but copper preferred. Just go to your local hardware store and buy a piece of copper pipe about 6 inches long. Smash one end flat and put a slight bend in it so you can hold against the metal surface. It will get hot when welding, so hold it with a glove.
Your cover is not that bad at all. Just fix it, and use the savings to buy parts you really need.
Using a copper backer is a real good idea to help prevent burning through. You can use alum also, but copper preferred. Just go to your local hardware store and buy a piece of copper pipe about 6 inches long. Smash one end flat and put a slight bend in it so you can hold against the metal surface. It will get hot when welding, so hold it with a glove.
Your cover is not that bad at all. Just fix it, and use the savings to buy parts you really need.
I have a copper plate and it's 1/2" thick. my brother-in-law gave it to me. I have no idea where it came from. works great though. I am talking about metal that is about ate all the way through due to rust. after you blast it, sometimes there just isn't enough metal to weld. Like trying to weld a window screen, if that makes any sense. I will repair the one I have, you are right, I got better thing to spend money on. Thanks
#21
Why sandblast it? It's already thin enough. I would just scuff all of it with a sanding disk to remove the surface rust and down to the metal in the repair area. Sandblasting is too harsh for a piece like that, which already has its issues.
38Chevy is right about the box. I usually can get that price just for the steering box. Pitman arm is another $20-30. I try to remove the steering wheel to save on shipping.
38Chevy is right about the box. I usually can get that price just for the steering box. Pitman arm is another $20-30. I try to remove the steering wheel to save on shipping.
#22
Why sandblast it? It's already thin enough. I would just scuff all of it with a sanding disk to remove the surface rust and down to the metal in the repair area. Sandblasting is too harsh for a piece like that, which already has its issues.
38Chevy is right about the box. I usually can get that price just for the steering box. Pitman arm is another $20-30. I try to remove the steering wheel to save on shipping.
38Chevy is right about the box. I usually can get that price just for the steering box. Pitman arm is another $20-30. I try to remove the steering wheel to save on shipping.
So you think I should just sand that with a DA? I could do that, but I guess I would like to see a solid piece of metal down there. My sandblaster is one of those hand held siphon guns and it's not powerful enough to eat anything but rust. I kind of use that expression, "If it can stand the heat, then get it out of the kitchen!" I want to get the floor stuff as good as possible, because it gets subjected to moisture, it's hidden, and I don't want to worry about it.
Shouldn't be a problem,once I decide to do it. And if it doesn't work out then I will know better next time. I just wanted to buy something, with my gift card, that would make my life easier for ten minutes! LOL
But you all are right, I need to spend it elswhere.
#23
I like to use those abrasive pad that screw onto an attachment for my air die grinder. They're smaller than a DA, flexible and can get into tight places.
You can always spray the underside of the cover with some undercoating material. It will prevent rust and will keep your welds nicely protected. You can pick up a can for less than $10.
You can always spray the underside of the cover with some undercoating material. It will prevent rust and will keep your welds nicely protected. You can pick up a can for less than $10.
#24
Why sandblast it? It's already thin enough. I would just scuff all of it with a sanding disk to remove the surface rust and down to the metal in the repair area. Sandblasting is too harsh for a piece like that, which already has its issues.
38Chevy is right about the box. I usually can get that price just for the steering box. Pitman arm is another $20-30. I try to remove the steering wheel to save on shipping.
38Chevy is right about the box. I usually can get that price just for the steering box. Pitman arm is another $20-30. I try to remove the steering wheel to save on shipping.
I am looking for some money!
#25
List it on the HAMB and Ford Barn. Axles are not in huge demand. I have three of them myself. Same for the spindles. The draglink may be needed, but most of the time, the guys buying that stuff build their own draglink or use something else. Another thing they look for are the backing plates to brakes or complete brake assemblies.
#26
My cover is in about the same condition, I scrubbed it and painted with Rust Encapsulator. I goobered the old accel pedal holes with RTV, and put a new piece of steel underneath for new holes (PO had some random pedal installed). There's really no load on the cover, unless you count laying on it on your back to do wiring, just not that critical to be perfect.
#27
My cover is in about the same condition, I scrubbed it and painted with Rust Encapsulator. I goobered the old accel pedal holes with RTV, and put a new piece of steel underneath for new holes (PO had some random pedal installed). There's really no load on the cover, unless you count laying on it on your back to do wiring, just not that critical to be perfect.
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