The clicking is normal for a dead battery.
The battery has enough power to close the solenoid.
As soon as that happens the starter load is applied and pulls the battery voltage down to where it can't even hold the solenoid closed.
The solenoid opens and the starter load is removed.
There's then enough power remaining to close the solenoid again.
It repeats the cycle...

The ignition switch is not heavy duty enough to carry power to the starter.
That's why there is a relay (solenoid) that is remotely operated.
That switch is not mechanically actuated by your key.
Prove it to yourself by jumpering the two large studs with a wrench, hammer, or whatever you have that can handle a few hundred amps of current.

 

that is a different story , the napa branded reman electrical stuff like alt and starters are crap , been dealing with that for 10+ years

 

well bad news on the 3g swap. the only salvage yard for miles and miles doesnt have the crown vic harness and with school and work i have no time to make my own in the near future. im going to clean the terminals tonight. is it possible i could have blown a fuse somewhere or its just the regulator? i havent had enough time or 2 vehicles to jump it again so i havent gotten very far.

 

screw it, if im willing to replace the regulator im gonna take a few more days of not driving and do the 3g.

like i said, the salvage yard has the 130 amp from the 3.8 taurus but not the wiring harness from a crown vic.

will this work?

Part # 925606 Ford Wiring Plug Combo for 3G Series Alternators, For Easy Wiring of Ford 3G Series Alternators in Eariler Fords or Other Applications

 

Yup!
But Ryan's is $5 cheaper and cleaner too.
Plus it has the weatherpak splice for the green wire.
RJM Injection Tech — 3G Alternator Harness


You still need an heavy duty charge cable and a fuse to handle the current it can put out.

 

You don't need the harness. The plug for the alternator can be bought new for under $12.00 or get one from the junk yard. The charge cable can be done with standard 4ga battery cable. The fuse is optional to do.




DO NOT BUY THAT HARNESS IN THE LINK!!! That by far is the worst way to do the swap. They want you to tie the voltage sense wire to the back of the alternator. It needs to be off the battery or you will never get full power out of the unit. The green wire gets hooked up to the old green wire from the voltage regulator.

 

The fuse is definitely NOT optional.
Even the pathetic 2G you're swapping out has a fusible link before the solenoid.

Burn down your own truck if you like, but don't encourage someone else to here in this forum.

 

You don't need any harness. Get the 3G alternator with the plug and cut the wiring so you have enough to splice into your other wiring. Then get some 4 gauge wiring and a 150 amp fuse for the charge cable.

I did a 3G swap on my 86.

 

well, a step in the right direction tonight. found a horribly corroded wire going to my starter relay and spliced in some new. while i was at it i cleaned and filed the battery terminals and posts. after a jump, she fired up. battery light off. my buddy had my multimeter but the truck registered about 14 volts after running it for 50 miles. i still feel like this is a touch low but itll do for now. ill work on the 3g swap when i get some time.

thank you all so so much for the help. let this serve as a guide for someone who actually has imminent alternator/voltage reg problems.

take care.

 

I agree. I put a 130 A. fuse before the solenoid. My Alt. is rated at 115 A.