Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks > '80-'86 HOWTO's
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 01-16-2012, 02:27 PM
1986F150six 1986F150six is online now
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sheffield, AL
Posts: 2,780
1986F150six has a great reputation on FTE.1986F150six has a great reputation on FTE.1986F150six has a great reputation on FTE.1986F150six has a great reputation on FTE.1986F150six has a great reputation on FTE.1986F150six has a great reputation on FTE.
HOWTO - Starter motor replacement 101

Back in October, I wrote a thread titled Choke adjustment 101. I stated that I read with amazement the information provided by forum members more gifted and knowledgable than I and that I try to contribute on the simpler routine needs of our older vehicles. I hope this will fall into that catagory.

Last week, the starter on my 1986 F150 with 4.9L engine provided me with warning signs that it was soon to stop what it had been doing so well for 26 years and 152,570 miles. The symptom was that it failed to engage the flywheel gear and I could hear the motor spinning [Zzzzzzzz]. Immediately following, it would start as normal.

Saturday morning was somewhat cold, but clear and dry, so off to the parts store I went and selected the better remanufactured replacement unit, paid the core deposit, since I had not yet removed my old unit... I drove the truck to get the part.

Back at home and parked on level ground with transmission in gear and parking brake applied and the wheels chocked:

* Put on safety glasses.
* Open hood and using 1/2" wrench, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
* Crawl under the passenger side of the truck just behind the front wheel [yea, no raising of the truck required!].
* Using a 1/4" ratchet with a 3/8" socket, remove the electrical cable on the top and front of the starter motor. Note how the connection is made. The cable has a flat blade, with a hole, which slides between two similar blades on the starter. The bottom blade has the captured nut and the bolt squeezes the three blades together ensuring a good electrical connection.
* Using a 1/2" drive ratchet with an 8" or 10" extension and 1/2" socket, loosen the top and bottom bolts securing the starter motor. The bottom bolt is where the ground strap attaches. As these are loosened, the starter can be rocked back and forth. Before loosening completely, support the starter motor with your right hand and finish removing the two bolts. Be prepared... the starter weighs approximately 15# [a guess] and you do not want it falling on you. Always lay the removed pieces [bolts] in a way that you can return them to their original starting point. Set the old unit aside.
* Take time to take a quick look at the partially exposed flywheel to see that the teeth on the ring gear are in acceptable condition.
* Take brake cleaner, or similar product, and spray the electrical cable ends and using a wire brush, make sure the connections are clean. [watch you eyes!!!]
* Compare the replacement starter to the old unit to make certain they are the same.
* Carefully lift the "new" unit and insert while supporting with the right hand. Insert the top bolt and turn the bolt a few turns, using your left hand. Next, thread the remaining mounting bolt through the cleaned ground cable and then into the starter housing. Again, using your left hand, hand tighten the bottom bolt. Make sure the starter is inserted flush and then tighten the bolts until they bottom out, using your fingers. That way, there is no chance of cross-threading. Using the 1/2" socket and ratchet, snug the bolts. Someone else can supply the correct torque specification.
* Slide the cleaned electrical connection blade between the two on the starter and insert the 3/8" bolt from the top and using the smaller ratchet described previously, tighten snugly.
* Look around and make sure all tools are removed from under the truck.
* Place the old unit in the supplied plastic bag and box in preparation to return to the parts house and receive the refund for the core deposit.
* Using the 1/2" wrench, reconnect the negative battery terminal.
* Clean your hands and try it out. Feel good!!!

Even putting all tools away, this is a 30 minute job or less.

I hope this will be beneficial to someone!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-16-2012, 04:08 PM
ctubutis's Avatar
ctubutis ctubutis is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver Metro Area, CO
Posts: 15,818
ctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputation
ctubutis ctubutis ctubutis
Quote:
Someone else can supply the correct torque specification.
Bwahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!
__________________
About the bra
Microsoft is writing software for the kind of people who'd type google into the google search bar to get to google.
http://news.slashdot.org/comments.pl...7&cid=47003415
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-16-2012, 04:29 PM
ctubutis's Avatar
ctubutis ctubutis is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver Metro Area, CO
Posts: 15,818
ctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputation
ctubutis ctubutis ctubutis
Thanks for your efforts! Even though you're sending people someplace else for torque specs

I added this thread to the electrical portion of the Tech sticky at the top of the forum:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/84...ml#post7434560
__________________
About the bra
Microsoft is writing software for the kind of people who'd type google into the google search bar to get to google.
http://news.slashdot.org/comments.pl...7&cid=47003415
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-16-2012, 05:29 PM
81-F-150-Explorer 81-F-150-Explorer is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,791
81-F-150-Explorer is a splendid one to behold81-F-150-Explorer is a splendid one to behold81-F-150-Explorer is a splendid one to behold81-F-150-Explorer is a splendid one to behold81-F-150-Explorer is a splendid one to behold81-F-150-Explorer is a splendid one to behold81-F-150-Explorer is a splendid one to behold
Ahem...

Ford Torque specs for Bolts not listed in the special torque section... (Starter motor bolts are not listed in my ford manual so...)

These are the sizes of the bolt shank themselves and threads, not the wrench or socket size which can be two sizes over the bolt size... A 9/16 socket can fit the hex head (but there are exceptions) onto a 7/16 bolt etc...

To find the bolt size you can closely guestimate it by using sockets and fitting it over the threads. To find thread size, use your fingernail. 1/4-20 is 1/4 bolt size and there are 20 threads every inch.

1/4-20 = 6-9 ft-lbs
5/16-18 = 12-18 ft-lbs
5/16-24 = 14-20 ft-lbs
3/8-16 = 22-32 ft-lbs
3/8-24 = 27-38 ft-lbs
7/16-14 = 45-57 ft-lbs
7/16-20 = 40-60 ft-lbs
1/2-13 = 55-60 ft-lbs
9/16-18 = 85-120
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-16-2012, 05:33 PM
Leaf's Avatar
Leaf Leaf is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Brandywine, WV
Posts: 92
Leaf is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1986F150six View Post
Someone else can supply the correct torque specification.
I thought you were s'posed to just heave on 'em until the threads stripped of the heads broke off....
__________________
'84 F-150 / 300 I6 / 3-Speed Manual / 2WD
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-16-2012, 06:01 PM
displacement4me's Avatar
displacement4me displacement4me is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 528
displacement4me has a great reputation on FTE.displacement4me has a great reputation on FTE.displacement4me has a great reputation on FTE.displacement4me has a great reputation on FTE.displacement4me has a great reputation on FTE.
Nice write up, but you must get lucky.

It should be noted to check the pinion depth and any shimming that may be needed to back it away from the flywheel to avoid continuous engagement. Wouldn't want to damage any of those teeth off that pass the QC test in step 6 Especially if the old starter had a shim.

I also power it up (12v) for a quick burst for my own personal bench test for these reman's.
__________________
BRYAN
'85 F150 XLT-Lariat - Built 460/TKO600 swap Restomod-restoration thread here:--> Chassis COMPLETE

'13 F-350 172" Platinum - Factory Ordered, White Plat. Tricoat w/Pecan interior --> Hot MM w/full delete
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-16-2012, 08:28 PM
critterf1's Avatar
critterf1 critterf1 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Newport, N.C.
Posts: 1,998
critterf1 has a good reputation on FTE.critterf1 has a good reputation on FTE.critterf1 has a good reputation on FTE.
Always tighten the top bolt first. No need to dis-connect the battery, it's not a Chevy.
Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 08:28 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hedman Hedder install w/pics ak-angler Modular V10 (6.8l) 272 07-31-2014 09:08 PM
Tips on Removing the Starter summitdog 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 18 08-05-2013 06:32 PM
Starter motor replacement 101 1986F150six 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 10 01-11-2013 11:03 PM
Just replaced my 5.4 plugs at 84k; here's my experience vze2sgxa Expedition & Navigator 31 05-14-2009 10:10 PM
Just changed my 5.4 plugs at 84k, sharing my experience with others vze2sgxa Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L) 20 08-08-2008 07:32 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks > '80-'86 HOWTO's

Tags
starter motor

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


Participate In The Forums

Create new posts and participate in discussions. It's free!

Sign Up »





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup