hey guys,

I have a 1995 EB bronco with a 5.0 auto. It has been "hiccuping" lately while driving and has occasionally stalled. If i let it sit a minute or even 30 seconds it would start right up. So, I replaced the fuel filter, ignition coil, and the tfi ignition module. Well tonight it died right in the middle of a 4 lane road as i was idling waiting to turn left accross traffic. It would not restart what so ever. I had to push it accross two lanes. I took the plug wire off of the coil and seem to be getting no spark. You can hear the fuel pump by the way. After about an hour of trying to get it to start, if finally did.....but reved down and died and wont restart again. Any ideas? The only thing i can think of next is the ignition switch on the steering colum, however i dont know why it would hiccup while driving. Oh yea, and i also put dialectric grease on the back of the tfi before it installed it. My beloved bronco is sitting overnight in a parking lot so i would really like to solve this tomorrow if i can.

Thanks guys,
TheBlueMule

 

Well you really need to pull the codes to see whats going on. You need to begin trouble shooting, rent/borrow a fuel pressure gauge to check pressure at the fuel rail. Should be ~39 lbs. Did you happen to check the Distributor?

 

the distributor does turn if thats what you are asking. and i have no check engine light. But i will check the codes tomorrow too.

Thanks

 

Sounds like the classic PIP (Stator) failure inside the distributor. They tend to die when they get warmed up. As always it wise to check for codes as well as fuel pressure before replacing more parts.

For reference: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Stator (RPM)

You can replace just the PIP sensor, but it is not easy. If you find the PIP has failed you can replace the whole distributor. Problem is many of the so-called "rebuilt" units have bad PIPs in them. The rebuilder usually does not test them through a heat cycle.

I recently found this write-up on another forum. Some good info as well as helpful hints and other suggested methodology: 30 Minute Ignition System Test for Remote Mounted TFI Bronco - FSB Forums

 

I'd also bet on a PIP. I had mine go bad in my 94 a few months ago on a 3 month old cheapo distributor. Ponied up the dough for a Carquest lifetime warranty one. That one made it thru last Wednesday, and it died in a turning lane, so its getting replaced. I guess you can't get good ones any more, but at least the rest of mine will be free.

There's a way to test if the pickup is sending a signal to the tfi.

Part 5 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).

This is the one I used to diagnose it. Hope it helps!

 

Heat sink/thermal paste is white in color and should be used
between the TFI module and the heat sink.

Dielectric grease is used for the electrical connectors and is
almost clear in color.

 

The thing i dont understand is that i drove it 55 miles on friday and it didn't hiccup or hesitate once. Last night i drove maybe 5 miles and it did this. Wouldn't you think things would have heated up on the 55 mile trip (25 miles continuous each way)? Not that im disagreeing with your guys suggestions. I am going to do the test you guys posted in a bit. And also wipe off the dialectric grease and put on heat sink grease. Now, if i dont have power to the coil, where would i look at then? I will reread the test procedures but i am almost positive i did not have spark out of the coil last night. Just want to double check before i go down there without a computer to look this up on.

Thanks guys

 

Here's a engine schematic posted for 92-95's.

It shows a Red/Light Green wire provides 12 volts to the coil and TFI module
when the ignition is in Run or Start. The source is Fuse U which is a 20amp
Maxi Fuse.

If you have no 12 volts at the coil, there must be a problem in the wiring
from the fuse to the coil because the same 12 volts is used to enable the
PCM relay which must be working because you hear the fuel pump prime.

1983 Ford Bronco Diagrams picture | SuperMotors.net

 

Well im going down in a bit to put on a new PIP (stator). Its 32 bucks from napa and to be honest, if it doesnt solve the problem.....oh well im not mad that i threw 32 bucks into a part that is common to go bad. My question is, what all tools will i need to replace it? Anyone know, I am heading down with sockets and wrenches ( small stuff cause i think they are 10mm bolt heads or smaller) screwdrivers, dialectric grease, and some torx bits. Know of anything else i'll need?

 

A press to take the gear off and put it back on.

 

Well i am going to just get a new distributor. It should be in in the morning. There is alot of play in the dizzy shaft. Ill let you guys know if this solves anything. Did some test on it today and am gonna take my scan tool tomorrow to check things. but alot of play in the distributor means replacing anyway

 

You shouldn't need a press to get the gear off. I took my old one apart with just a thin punch and a soft faced hammer. The gear and bottom retainer both have thin pins running through them. Punch these out and maybe a few taps on the gear and the whole mess should come apart.