Just got in from the garage, and I think it went OK. I drilled a nice hole with a right-angle drill and tapped a good, clean thread into it. My only concern is that I couldn't thread deeply enough into the hole because the tap wrench kept popping every time I tried to twist it past a certain depth. Try as I might, I couldn't keep the chuck tight enough on the tap!
Anyway, I coated the threads with RTV and put a good glob of it at the very end of the stud and screwed it in as far as the threads would carry it.
Now, I wait 24 hours for the RTV to cure. Then I'm going to fill the coolant line with water to see if there are any leaks. If there are no apparent leaks, I'll be in great shape for installing the new manifold!
Fingers crossed....
Last edited by BruceJeremy; 02-23-2012 at 01:56 PM.
Reason: errors
Hey Spotty: I didn't go up a size. I was careful enough not to use too big a bit when I originally drilled out the broken stud. I just found the proper tap for the hole and drilled using the tap drill chart to find the right drill bit size (for the record, the studs are 8 mm-1.25 and the recommended drill bit size is 6.8 mm or 17/64" ).
I'm not satisfied with the 5/8" worth of threads that I cut but hopefully that will be enough to help block that coolant and hold the manifold (I'm more concerned about leaking coolant than I am about securing the manifold ).
I can see how easily a person could snap a tap, though! I was applying uneven pressure on the tap, due to tightness of space. I might have been able to cut deeper if I had used a socket and ratchet instead of the tap wrench (which wouldn't hold the tap tightly enough to turn).
I'll be out there later this afternoon to check for leaks, and hopefully put everything back togther again .
Hey Spotty: I didn't go up a size. I was careful enough not to use too big a bit when I originally drilled out the broken stud. I just found the proper tap for the hole and drilled using the tap drill chart to find the right drill bit size (for the record, the studs are 8 mm-1.25 and the recommended drill bit size is 6.8 mm or 17/64" ).
I'm not satisfied with the 5/8" worth of threads that I cut but hopefully that will be enough to help block that coolant and hold the manifold (I'm more concerned about leaking coolant than I am about securing the manifold ).
I can see how easily a person could snap a tap, though! I was applying uneven pressure on the tap, due to tightness of space. I might have been able to cut deeper if I had used a socket and ratchet instead of the tap wrench (which wouldn't hold the tap tightly enough to turn).
I'll be out there later this afternoon to check for leaks, and hopefully put everything back togther again .
Sounds like you about got her...
__________________
98 Ford F-150.4.6.4x4. Extended Cab 8' Box
2000 Mustang Gt, Black on Black, 100% stock
I wouldn't have been able to do this without all of your input, for which I am very grateful! I posted some pics in my album. Click on my username above and go to my public profile to check 'em out!
Cheers,
-Mike
p.s. I just got in from a test drive and what a difference.....she's quiet as a mouse! I'm feeling pretty good right about now
Last edited by BruceJeremy; 02-26-2012 at 08:31 AM.
Reason: Clarity & closure
after reading alot of the posts here im honestly scared to tackle this job.. i dont want to mess up the head threads an then cause a BIGGER issue for myself.. the last on the passenger side back of the motor on top is broken off IN the head id say flush an i dont know wtf to do to get it out.. honestly i just want to get it taken out an put a new one in an not worry about it anytime soon.. cause i dont plan on keeping the truck much longer.. so anyone have an suggestions for me on what i can or should do to get it out an what tool? PLEASE help me
You're going to have to try an extractor bit. I had the same stud break off. I couldn't get it out and had to drill a hole for the extractor bit, which still wouldn't budge the broken stud (I haven't had a lot of success with extraction bits). Hopefully you can remove it with the extractor bit.
I moved up a drill bit size and basically just drilled the stud right out. Just don't do what I did, which was to drill too deep into the engine block and puncture the coolant jacket! Take a look at the threads on one of the loose studs and gauge your depth that way.
If you scuff up the threads, clean them up with a tap. You're probably going to need a full set of manifold studs. Maybe not, but if your stud bolts are as rusted as mine were you will have difficulty getting them off without resorting to grinders.
after reading alot of the posts here im honestly scared to tackle this job.. i dont want to mess up the head threads an then cause a BIGGER issue for myself.. the last on the passenger side back of the motor on top is broken off IN the head id say flush an i dont know wtf to do to get it out.. honestly i just want to get it taken out an put a new one in an not worry about it anytime soon.. cause i dont plan on keeping the truck much longer.. so anyone have an suggestions for me on what i can or should do to get it out an what tool? PLEASE help me
Call this your baptism in fire but if you do your own repair the more you do the more the likelyhood of a bolt breaking. It's not the end of the world and if you don't have $100 an hour or more for labor do it yourself. You get experience and self confidence to do more along with some extra tools to be used later on possibly. Make sure you find the center of the broken fastener and put a center punch dimple in first. Use a smaller drill than needed to drill a short pilot hole for the size drill you will finish drill the broken fastener. I'm handicapped with spinal stanosis and do my own work when the weather allows. I've been spending the savings on more parts for my truck. Go 4 it dude.
TSB 05-5-4 on this site lists the SS studs as ford part #w703902-s403 and the ss nuts as w701706-s2. if only the studs are broken ford covers them under the emission warranty I think up to 100 k miles.
Have you drilled these studs? I couldn't find a bit to touch them, even carbide tipped bits and masonry bits. I ended up taking the head off and having three of them machined out for $250.
A cam stud extractor worked for most of the studs but three of them were in a goofy place where I couldn't get the tool to work or any other thing in there to get a good bite.
I tried welding a nut onto the studs to have something to bite onto but couldn't find a rod that would stick to the studs. I tried heating the studs to read hot and still no go, so off the head came. At least I then replaced the power steering pump, )2 sensors, new intake gasket (it was leaking) and damper pulleys just because I was there. SO, three $2.00 studs ended up costing me $1500 in parts and machining. This was on the left side, the right side is a breeze because there is more access (no steering or ABS crap in the way.
I'm ready to start the truck but am afraid a bit since I hope the timing is correct. I have a question regarding timing in here so if anyone knows the answer, please let me know.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaboom10
Call this your baptism in fire but if you do your own repair the more you do the more the likelyhood of a bolt breaking. It's not the end of the world and if you don't have $100 an hour or more for labor do it yourself. You get experience and self confidence to do more along with some extra tools to be used later on possibly. Make sure you find the center of the broken fastener and put a center punch dimple in first. Use a smaller drill than needed to drill a short pilot hole for the size drill you will finish drill the broken fastener. I'm handicapped with spinal stanosis and do my own work when the weather allows. I've been spending the savings on more parts for my truck. Go 4 it dude.
Have you drilled these studs? I couldn't find a bit to touch them, even carbide tipped bits and masonry bits. I ended up taking the head off and having three of them machined out for $250.
A cam stud extractor worked for most of the studs but three of them were in a goofy place where I couldn't get the tool to work or any other thing in there to get a good bite.
I tried welding a nut onto the studs to have something to bite onto but couldn't find a rod that would stick to the studs. I tried heating the studs to read hot and still no go, so off the head came. At least I then replaced the power steering pump, )2 sensors, new intake gasket (it was leaking) and damper pulleys just because I was there. SO, three $2.00 studs ended up costing me $1500 in parts and machining. This was on the left side, the right side is a breeze because there is more access (no steering or ABS crap in the way.
I'm ready to start the truck but am afraid a bit since I hope the timing is correct. I have a question regarding timing in here so if anyone knows the answer, please let me know.
Thanks.
Did the machine shop use EDM to remove the studs? For what they charged you a rebuilt head would have been cheaper.
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). 
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Take a look at the threads on one of the loose studs and gauge your depth that way. 
