We've had our '03 6.0L PS for 3 years and love it. My friends and family who work in shops freaked us out after we bought it because of all the problems the 03-04 diesels have been known to have. We bought it thinking we were getting a 7.3 and didn't realize the mistake until we went looking for the block heater a few days later. I didn't even realize Ford had put out a 6.0 because I never looked into diesels and only knew of the 7.3 and 6.4. Of course the dealer raved about the 6.0 once we realized what we had and called them to try to return it. So far I'm glad they talked me out of it.

We have 142K miles and no significant problems to speak of save a periodic hard cold start and infrequent surging at idle. I've always owned and worked on gassers so the learning curve has been interesting.

If I were working on a gas engine I would describe the idle surge as a vacuum leak. With this truck it seems it has more to do with fuel because it occurs less when using an additive but it does not seem to make a difference where we buy fuel. The other thing is that it is not consistent (not every time we drive it), but when it is surging it is regular (not constant) like every several seconds it will surge again.

The hard start seems to only be when the weather is cold. I know Ford recommends a thinner oil in the winter months but I have not tried running that because we don't drive the truck enough to change the oil more than once or twice a year, we've only put about 20K on it in 3 years, only a few thousand miles with heavy hauling. I read Ford recommends 7500 mi between oil changes under regular driving conditions and 5000 mi with heavy hauling. Really???

There is also a high pitch, low volume, pulsating whine that doesn't seem to change pitch or frequency with engine or vehicle speed except it goes away when returns to idle and comes and goes when up to speed. I don't know where to start looking for this one.

 

Hard cold starts could be the FICM check its voltage per the tech folder

also check batterys and alternator output as those will take out a FICM in a Hurrey

 

replaced the alternator and batts 1.5 yrs ago. think the new alt is still holding b/c the hard starts have been ongoing. Will check the FICM.

 

About 6 months ago I had longer than normal starts on my late 03 build date 2004 and it was surging about 200 rpms at idle. I unplugged the ICP sensor and the connector was oily from the sensor leaking. I cleaned the connector and ICP sensor with carborator cleaner, plugged it back in and the problem went away. I ended up putting in a new ICP sensor a couple of weeks later.

 

I think Blade35 has you covered on the hard starts and Cajunsuperduty has you covered on the surging issue with the ICP sensor and connector.

Check out the tech folder for great information on repairs and get Bismic's spreadsheet.

AFA oil changes--use of a quality properly rated diesel oil and OEM filter with 5K oil changes are highly recommended due to the 6.0's abuse of motor oil. Racor is the filter manufacturer but it's distributed by Motorcraft, IH, Fram, and a couple of others. Aftermarket filters can cause hard starting and too many problems to mention here.

I would also recommend getting some kind of gauge package to monitor the engine parameters. Scan Gauge 2 and Edge Insight are the most popular and will monitor everything but fuel pressure and EGT's. I HIGHLY recommend getting a fuel pressure gauge FIRST.

 

Welcome to FTE lassink and enjoy the forums

 

Silly noob question here, sorry. I also have low idle on start, then jumps up a few hundred rpm until warm. Just had ficmrepair rebuild the ficm, but made me wonder about ICP. Also, I have an '07 w/83,000. How do I find out if the power train is still under warranty?

 

unless it had extended warrenty its out by time

how low idel we talking about????

Also when it idel up when cold thats Normal

You need a ScanGaugeII or the Like

 

I'll get more exact numbers, on the rpm # and duration it does this before kicking up to "high idle". I've got paralysis by analysis, regarding gauges. I've heard Scan Gauge II, Edge CT/CTS, or Auto Meter gauge on a pillar/console. Something feels good about a "second source" of gauges vs. the electronic readings that SG and Edge give you, but they all cost $300+, so I don't want to make the wrong decision....
I bought it a couple months ago. I think it runs pretty good. No leaks, no indications of problems, but does start hard. At first was rough running, but once warm ~2-3 minutes, I think it runs great. Turbo spools up like I'd expect, moisture disappears from exhaust. No color to the exhaust other than a little steam, which I'd expect in January due to temps. I just love and am addicted to this DIY site and thought I should ask the wise.
Since I'm 2nd owner, I just "assumed" it was outta warranty, but thought I should ask before looking stupid at the Ford service counter...

 

Well I have a different opinion on stand alone gauges

BUT the best thing is to use the OBDII port and get as many gauges threw that as possible

My problem with standalone gauge is that they are always have the sender mounted in the correct location to get a proper reading plus that reading really don't mean much and is only general info...

Most AfterMarket gauges sending unit are not able to be in the right spot for proper reading
All the OEM gauges have be designed and Blueprinted in a VERY Specific location

All the gauges you get threw the OBDII Port are what the PCM is using to Calibrate the truck. You must be able to see what the PCM is seeing/using

ONCE YOU have a gauge that gets its info from theobdii port there is only a need for a couple standalone type gauge what are Fuel Press and LPO PSI and EGT if you want I don't think EGT is very important However you may see an injector problem with it from say an over fuel condition

DONT GET ME WRONG Standalone gauges are OK

just if you have a problem odds are you will need to see OEM Gauges reading