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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 01-27-2012, 06:39 PM
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buddmeister87
Need a couple torque specs

Im doing front wheel bearings and u loins tomorrow and need the torque spec for the 2 nuts In my manual locking hubs.
Is there a proper way to set/ torque them

And method/spec for rear ubolts as well please.

Is there a site that has a list of torque specs for our trucks?
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:48 PM
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Encho just did a great write up and that very project.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...l#post11243835

Not sure on the rear u-bolts tho.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:26 PM
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buddmeister87
now the like you posted has it as apply 180 lbs/ft to this nut, this is done to properly seat the bearings in the hub, then, loose the nut again and re-torque it to 60 lbs/ft, next is the washer, it has holes around its body and a tab that should be placed at 12 o'clock, the pin of the first nut should be inserted in any of the holes of the washer (this sounds easier than it is), the tab won't allow much freedom to the washer so be aware of that. If the pin doesn't line up with any of the holes, try flipping it. Once the washer is in place, insert the outer spindle nut and torque it to 60 lbs/ft.

i just found this in another thread...which one should i go by....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Churchill View Post
Ford Powertrain Manual says:

While rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 Nm (50 ft lbs) to seat bearings, Back off nut 90 degrees (1/4 turn) Tighten to 1.8 Nm (16 inch lbs.)
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:38 PM
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buddmeister87
found this as well.... so many different answers....
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkF250HD View Post
Is the person doing the replacement using a torque wrench? Are the new bearings being packed properly?

Here's the procedures for 1993:

Bronco and F-150 with Dana 44-IFS/HD Front Driving Axle with Manual Locking Hubs

Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the hub lock assembly. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Using a torque wrench and Spanner Locknut Wrench T86T-1197-A, apply inward pressure to unlock the adjusting nut locking splines.
Turn the nut clockwise to tighten to 95 Nm (70 ft-lb) while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearing.
Apply inward pressure on the spanner locknut wrench to disengage the adjusting nut locking splines.
Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90 degrees.
Retighten the adjusting nut to 20-27 Nm (15-20 ft-lb). Remove the tool and torque wrench.
Check that the final end play of the hub and rotor on the spindle is 0.00 mm (0.00 inch).
Torque required to rotate the hub and rotor assembly is not to exceed 2.3 Nm (20 in-lb).
Install the hub lock assembly. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle.



Bronco and F-150 with Dana 44-IFS with Automatic Locking Hubs, F-250 with Dana 50-IFS and F-350 with Dana 60 Monobeam with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the hub lock assembly. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Remove the outer locknut with Spanner Locknut Wrench D85T-1197-A or equivalent. Remove the lockwasher.
Using spanner locknut wrench while rotating the hub back and forth, tighten the inner locknut to 68 Nm (50 ft-lb) to seat the bearing.
Back off the inner locknut and retighten to 41-54 Nm (30-40 ft-lb) while rotating the hub back and forth.
Back off the locknut 90 degrees.
Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the spindle groove. Tighten the inner locknut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole.
Install the outer locknut and tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 ft-lb) using spanner locknut wrench.
Check the final end play ofthe spindle. It should be 0.00-0.11mm (0.000-0.004 inch).
Torque required to rotate the hub and rotor assembly is not to exceed 2.3 Nm (20 in-lb).
Install the hub locks. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:52 PM
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I remember doing the inner to 90, back off a quarter turn and then re-torque to 40. On the outer one I gave it hell and put it at ~150. Zero play in the wheels and then spin just fine.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:16 PM
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While I've never used a torque wrench to set bearing preload, I do it by "feel" as have lots and lots of practice.
I can understand some like to and that is fine however don't over tighten them to seat the bearings, 180 ft-lb way overboard its just not necessary. No point in crushing the bearings denting the raceways right off the bat!

Don't back em off then tighten them to a final set of 60 or even 40 ft-lb either as that is just way to tight.

Do this (short excerpt copied from above),

Using spanner locknut wrench while rotating the hub back and forth, tighten the inner locknut to 68 Nm (50 ft-lb) to seat the bearing.
Back off the inner locknut and retighten to 41-54 Nm (30-40 ft-lb) while rotating the hub back and forth.
Back off the locknut 90 degrees.
Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the spindle grove. Tighten the inner locknut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole. (or flip washer offer, often will line up without need turn inner nut)
Install the outer locknut and tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 ft-lb) using spanner locknut wrench.


Do that and you'll be fine.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:18 PM
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if you torqued the inner nut to 60 foot pounds thats way to tight. the inner nut( after the bearing is seated) only needs to keep tension on the bearing so it isnt sloppy. i would say no more than 15 ft pounds. then the washer and then the outer nut which should be a minimum of 150 foot pounds. running the inner nut so tight will burn up the bearings very quickly.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:29 PM
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It depends on the year and what you have axle/hub wise. My 97 specs are way different from that, those are for a 93.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:33 PM
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I've always done them by feel also, tighten and loosen the inner nut 3-4 times while spinning the rotor, then just snug it up. You'll probably have to move it a little to line up with the lock ring anyway. After the lock ring I'll run the outer nut in with the 1/2" impact, let it tap on it 2-3 times and call it good.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:34 PM
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Follow up: the cut-off was April 1995.




Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. Remove caliper and brake pads.
Remove the hublock assembly. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
For Bronco and all F-Series 4x4, except F-250 and F-350 built before April 1995, remove C-ring and three washers.
Remove the outer locknut with Bronco or Spanner Locknut Wrench D85T-1 197-A or equivalent for F-250 and F-350. Remove the lockwasher.
Using spanner locknut wrench while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) back and forth, tighten the inner locknut to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) to seat the bearing.
Back off the locknut 90 degrees.

NOTE: Hole pattern of lockwasher is offset with keyway to provide half-position settings by flipping washer over to obtain closest hole.



Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the groove of the front wheel spindle (3105). Tighten the inner locknut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole.

Install the outer locknut and tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 lb-ft) using Hub Locknut Wrench T83T-1197-B for F-15O and Bronco or Spanner Locknut Wrench D85T-1197-A or equivalent for F-250 and F-350.
Check the final end play of the front wheel spindle. It should be 0.00-0.11 mm (0.000 0.004 inch).
Torque required to rotate the front disc brake hub and rotor is not to exceed 2.3 Nm (20 lb-in).
For Bronco and all F-Series 4x4, except F-250 and F-350 built before April 1995, install three washers in order: metal washer first, plastic washer second, and splined washer third. Install C-ring.
Install the hublocks. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkF250HD View Post
It depends on the year and what you have axle/hub wise. My 97 specs are way different from that, those are for a 93.
Wheel bearings are wheel bearings, preload is preload. You can change the retainer style and the wrench needed to spin same but the preload on the bearing is the same. Not too loose and not too tight, just right.

Till you get into the later model sealed hub, serviced as a unit has one large nut retaining the assembly, basically tighten the **** out of it no preload to adjust.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danr1 View Post
Wheel bearings are wheel bearings, preload is preload. You can change the retainer style and the wrench needed to spin same but the preload on the bearing is the same. Not too loose and not too tight, just right.

Till you get into the later model sealed hub, serviced as a unit has one large nut retaining the assembly, basically tighten the **** out of it no preload to adjust.
Exactly
,
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:40 PM
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i too do them by feel. the first couple times i ever did wheel bearings i tried following the torque specs and those couple times the wheel bearings failed within a month. the outer nut how ever i always make sure is very tight, at least 150 lbs because i have had the nuts loosen up too. after you are done with one side, (with the caliper off)spin the wheel. it should spin fairly easily. if it stops quickly the bearings are too tight. you will get the feel with time
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danr1 View Post

Till you get into the later model sealed hub, serviced as a unit has one large nut retaining the assembly, basically tighten the **** out of it no preload to adjust.

No. Everything has a specification, whenever I do a hub unit at work it is torqued to manufacturers spec. Press-in bearings for FWD cars are even more sensitive, the bearing WILL fail prematurely without the correct axle nut torque. I've seen a few fail from people "tightening the **** out of it" with an impact. The customer is then unhappy when a bearing they had replaced 2 months ago is now growling again.

Revised designs ( bearing size, material) and TSBs regarding repeat problems and failures are reasons why manufacturers change specifications. Go by the book, it's not hard unless you can't read. Do I do some stuff "by feel"? yes, but when a wheel is attached to it (and I can lose my job over it) I'm going by the book.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkF250HD View Post
No. Everything has a specification, whenever I do a hub unit at work it is torqued to manufacturers spec. Press-in bearings for FWD cars are even more sensitive, the bearing WILL fail prematurely without the correct axle nut torque. I've seen a few fail from people "tightening the **** out of it" with an impact. The customer is then unhappy when a bearing they had replaced 2 months ago is now growling again.

Revised designs ( bearing size, material) and TSBs regarding repeat problems and failures are reasons why manufacturers change specifications. Go by the book, it's not hard unless you can't read. Do I do some stuff "by feel"? yes, but when a wheel is attached to it (and I can lose my job over it) I'm going by the book.

On the sealed fwd car style bearings we're talking about, I cant see where tightening the nut an extra 100 ft lbs or less can distort the inner races and effect bearing clearances. Its not like when you have 2 tapered roller bearings in a rwd car/truck (or some 4x4 truck) type setup. You are trying to crush the extremely hard steel of the inner bearing races that are touching each other and I just dont see that happening.
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