1980-96 truck cabs
#31
01-29-2012, 08:27 AM
Posting Legend
The mechanical linkage from the pedal down to the cross-shaft, is close to vertical, so the force exerted on the firewall is also vertical, & not any problem, unlike the hydraulic push-rod which is horizontal.
I know a reinforcement plate would overcome the issue, but when I swapped from the C6 to manual in my truck, I deliberately went to mechanical linkages to avoid the cracking firewall problem.
Eventually there will be a little maintenance - plastic bushes etc, but it's year correct, effortlessly light, bleed-free & crack-free.
Chris is right about the worn linkages.
My donor truck linkage was 90% through at the top of the vertical rod, but still working.
It could have easily let go in an embarrassing situation.
I know a reinforcement plate would overcome the issue, but when I swapped from the C6 to manual in my truck, I deliberately went to mechanical linkages to avoid the cracking firewall problem.
Eventually there will be a little maintenance - plastic bushes etc, but it's year correct, effortlessly light, bleed-free & crack-free.
Chris is right about the worn linkages.
My donor truck linkage was 90% through at the top of the vertical rod, but still working.
It could have easily let go in an embarrassing situation.
That's the bit I missed, that the force is up the firewall in the plane of the metal and its strength. There is probably no need to reinforce the firewall for the mechanical clutch, but if it is done it wouldn't help much to spread the force out, but to tie things back to something more substantial.
But, the need to reinforce the hydraulic unit is because all the force pressing on it is at right angles to the metal and concentrated in one area. A little flex and some work-hardening. Pretty soon a crack develops. Makes sense.
As for the linkage being worn on what I have in Rusty, I can make or buy bushings, weld up wear and machine back, etc. Just need to be thinking of that when I have the parts out and look everything over to find the wear. I appreciate the input. Reps to you!
#32
01-29-2012, 01:01 PM
Cargo Master
#33
01-29-2012, 01:09 PM
Posting Legend
That's not a plate. That's simply part of the firewall. The 92-97 cabs do not have that "plate" anymore. It is a one piece fire wall all across.
Right where you'd have the clutch master, in that seam, is where they crack.
The re-enforcement plate, goes inside the cab.
Right where you'd have the clutch master, in that seam, is where they crack.
The re-enforcement plate, goes inside the cab.
Ken - Agree on LMC, but sometimes I like to make sintered bronze bushings to replace plastic, and I'm guessing the pedal bushings are plastic.
#34
01-29-2012, 01:17 PM
Cargo Master
Chris - I'm going to have to agree with John. The '82 cab I have saved back for Dad's truck has the same plate, and it was an auto.
Ken - Agree on LMC, but sometimes I like to make sintered bronze bushings to replace plastic, and I'm guessing the pedal bushings are plastic.
Ken - Agree on LMC, but sometimes I like to make sintered bronze bushings to replace plastic, and I'm guessing the pedal bushings are plastic.
The bushes on the pedal shaft are plastic, but they don't seem prone to wearing fast.
#35
01-29-2012, 01:34 PM
Posting Legend
#36
01-29-2012, 05:25 PM
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That's not a plate. That's simply part of the firewall. The 92-97 cabs do not have that "plate" anymore. It is a one piece fire wall all across.
Right where you'd have the clutch master, in that seam, is where they crack.
The re-enforcement plate, goes inside the cab.
Right where you'd have the clutch master, in that seam, is where they crack.
The re-enforcement plate, goes inside the cab.
That is a reinforcing plate. Factory installed but not the one for the clutch. This one is for the brake booster. This plate is to prevent firewall flexing and cracking where the brake booster hooks to the firewall. Another seperate problem of it's own.
-------------------------------------
The one you need for the firewall clutch repair is either: E3TZ-7K509-A for minor damage or E3TZ-7K509-B for major damage.
I did a search of the Part numbers and found this for you to read...
Ford TSB: 9-16-07 : Issued: August 1st 1990.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/mu...13405_1121.pdf
#37
01-30-2012, 05:33 PM
Cargo Master
I would love to have a modern, hydraulic clutch!
The notion that they're more reliable is a misnomer... Unless the linkage under the dash is periodically lubricated (who does that?) that linkage eventually wears out, the clutch rod breaks, and suddenly you've got a rather large problem on your hands.
Those of you who have mechanical clutches, crawl up under your dash and take a close look at the pivot point between the rod and the lever (that attaches to the pedal shaft, up near the gas pedal and is where a hydraulic master cylinder also attaches to the pedal).
The hole in that lever becomes elongated (sometimes exceedingly so) and the pivot point on the rod wears through, that rod eventually snaps at that point there.
Take a close look at your clutch rods, guys..........
The notion that they're more reliable is a misnomer... Unless the linkage under the dash is periodically lubricated (who does that?) that linkage eventually wears out, the clutch rod breaks, and suddenly you've got a rather large problem on your hands.
Those of you who have mechanical clutches, crawl up under your dash and take a close look at the pivot point between the rod and the lever (that attaches to the pedal shaft, up near the gas pedal and is where a hydraulic master cylinder also attaches to the pedal).
The hole in that lever becomes elongated (sometimes exceedingly so) and the pivot point on the rod wears through, that rod eventually snaps at that point there.
Take a close look at your clutch rods, guys..........
#38
01-31-2012, 04:47 PM
I went back and crawled up underneath my dash on my back and looked at my clutch rod.
The clutch rod is more or less fine.
I looked at the pedal bracket and felt around where the rod is held onto the bracket (I hate that pin that holds it on, by the way. Really cheap I think) and apparently, I thought my bracket was fine too.
I found out though, on the mechanical clutch like mine, the clutch rod is under heavy spring tension. I grabbed my clutch rod and pulled down on it as if I were pushing the clutch pedal, and low and behold, mines worn pretty darn good. The rod itself is fine though.
So, unless you get down underneath the dash and take a look at the bracket and clutch rod connection next to the steering column, you won't know yours is worn out or not. It'll just keep wearing and wearing and wearing, and next thing you know, you're screwed.
I've probably got 40 or 50K miles left on mine (if I oil it/grease it) before it either wears through or just plain breaks.
I'm looking at either welding the hole shut and then drilling a new hole for the clutch rod to slip into, or getting a new bracket all together. I'll probably replace the clutch rod at the same time.
Why didn't Ford put a bearing right there? That would've been awesome.
The clutch rod is more or less fine.
I looked at the pedal bracket and felt around where the rod is held onto the bracket (I hate that pin that holds it on, by the way. Really cheap I think) and apparently, I thought my bracket was fine too.
I found out though, on the mechanical clutch like mine, the clutch rod is under heavy spring tension. I grabbed my clutch rod and pulled down on it as if I were pushing the clutch pedal, and low and behold, mines worn pretty darn good. The rod itself is fine though.
So, unless you get down underneath the dash and take a look at the bracket and clutch rod connection next to the steering column, you won't know yours is worn out or not. It'll just keep wearing and wearing and wearing, and next thing you know, you're screwed.
I've probably got 40 or 50K miles left on mine (if I oil it/grease it) before it either wears through or just plain breaks.
I'm looking at either welding the hole shut and then drilling a new hole for the clutch rod to slip into, or getting a new bracket all together. I'll probably replace the clutch rod at the same time.
Why didn't Ford put a bearing right there? That would've been awesome.
#39
01-31-2012, 09:34 PM
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I believe you want E0TZ-7A554-B.
Hooks to the clutch pedal rod at the top and the other end bolts to the rod that hooks to the clutch pedal assymbly.
It also has a plastic bushing that you will need to put at the end of the Clutch rod that fits into E0TZ-7A554-B.
D8TZ-7526-B - Bushing
Which btw is why my linkage is clunking, as the bushing failed...
Hooks to the clutch pedal rod at the top and the other end bolts to the rod that hooks to the clutch pedal assymbly.
It also has a plastic bushing that you will need to put at the end of the Clutch rod that fits into E0TZ-7A554-B.
D8TZ-7526-B - Bushing
Which btw is why my linkage is clunking, as the bushing failed...
#40
01-31-2012, 09:45 PM
I believe you want E0TZ-7A554-B.
Hooks to the clutch pedal rod at the top and the other end bolts to the rod that hooks to the clutch pedal assymbly.
It also has a plastic bushing that you will need to put at the end of the Clutch rod that fits into E0TZ-7A554-B.
D8TZ-7526-B - Bushing
Which btw is why my linkage is clunking, as the bushing failed...
Hooks to the clutch pedal rod at the top and the other end bolts to the rod that hooks to the clutch pedal assymbly.
It also has a plastic bushing that you will need to put at the end of the Clutch rod that fits into E0TZ-7A554-B.
D8TZ-7526-B - Bushing
Which btw is why my linkage is clunking, as the bushing failed...
It was just a metal rod to metal with a pin on the clutch idler rod. I'm going to look again tomorrow.Anyway, thanks for the part numbers. I plugged them in online and found a few sites that are great resources for other things I'll need on down the line too.
I'd rather have the new parts than make an old part works, so thanks a bunch man.
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