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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:53 AM
BDTMTGT BDTMTGT is offline
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GEM Module Reprogramming.

I have a 2002 F-150 4x4 with ESOF. I have been having problems that I've narrowed down to a bad GEM module. Wipers don't work, power windows don't work, 4x4 doesn't work, fan sometimes won't shut off, and the brake/shift-lock isn't working.

I'm told that if I purchase a new module I have to go to the dealer and have the programming from my old module copied to the new one.

I've also been told that I need this done if I get a used one!! I don't understand what I'm missing, but if I get one that comes from the same model and year, with all matching options, shouldn't that work???

Thanks
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:16 PM
Bluegrass 7 Bluegrass 7 is offline
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Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.
If the used one comes from a truck with all the same build options it should work.
An example of a difference would be a truck without power windows and one with, all other things being the same.
The GEM controls or has the ability to control a lot of circuits.
There are several versions but they won't plug up to keep out of those problems when a change is attempted beside the programming within the application.
Good luck.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:53 PM
BDTMTGT BDTMTGT is offline
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Thanks Bluegrass. Just out of curiousity, would engine size matter for this unit, as its more controlled by the PCM? Also would a different year, but in the same series of truck from 1997-2004, also work?
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:59 PM
Bluegrass 7 Bluegrass 7 is offline
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Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.
GEM is not related to engine size as it has no direct connection.
The versions are universal in design and used in cars and other application accross the lines.
This is why it has a program to make it control the vehichle build options.
One truck may have 4x4 another 2wd with all other options being the same, the program has to be different.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:18 PM
BDTMTGT BDTMTGT is offline
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Thanks again, unfortunitely for me, finding a local used part is proving to be difficult, even the Ford dealer says it hard to get new. Pretty bad considering how common the failure of these units is. No recall of course since I guess there is no risk to safety, although I have read that on occasion the short between the GEM and the fuse panel has caused it to catch fire.
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:34 PM
Bluegrass 7 Bluegrass 7 is offline
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Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.
Most often the windshield leaks onto the modual as the cause of failure.
Programming a new unit can be done from Ford data base the dealer should have access to.
They enter the VIN number and go to the 'as built' record for any down load needed for the VIN.
Good luck.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:46 AM
BDTMTGT BDTMTGT is offline
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Over the weekend I decided to pull the GEM module from my truck, following some instructions I'd found online. When I got most everything apart, and reached the point in the instructions where it said "Now wiggle, pry and twist the fuse box and GEM module assembly down." I discovered that I didn't want to twist and pry as much as it seemed would be required. I guess I was afraid I'd do more damage then good, considering the mess of wires and such in behind all that.

I gave up, and reassembled everything back to as it was. I had the 2 main wire blocks disconnected and did see a small amount of corrosion there, I hoped that when I put it all back that miraculaously (spelling) everything would be fine.

Of course, it wasn't, so I decided to check my fuses.............
I know what you're thinking, I broke the cardinal rule, try the simple, trouble shooting things first!!

But, I thought it was inevidiable that the module was gone. Far too many things were not working for it to be a simple fuse. When I'd looked at the fuse panel before, there are a fair number of them that relate to the GEM.

As I pulled the fuses and put them back, I started thinking about how much it was going to cost me tro get someone else to do this work.......... and how unhappy my wife was going to be about it..!!

Then low and behold I pull out a 5amp fuse, blown. When I check the book, Brake Switch/Brake shift-interlock, speed control, GEM.....

After all that trouble, and weeks driving with no wipers or 4x4, a simple fuse............ how could I be so stupid.

For anyone reading this, keep it simple, don't jump to the big stuff just because its a common thing.
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:43 PM
Bluegrass 7 Bluegrass 7 is offline
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Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.
Good to hear.
The Gem does control quite a few functions.
Mom needs to get use to repair costs on these late vehichles because it does cost for factory parts as a Gem would be, and some repairs only a dealer can perform such as programming.
Otherwise give here a choice of new shoes for walking of staying home.
Good luck.
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Old 09-17-2012, 01:59 PM
Luthier Luthier is offline
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Kicking up a little dust here.

I have no water leakage problem, Just replaced my GEM BCM whatever anyone wants to call it.. with a used one,,,, Guess what same problem, how did you guess.
Same list of things out and a few more, my gremlin started when I had an over heating problem and my trailer was connected. This was not a water every where boil over so no water in the engine bay nor a wash down of the engine bay was needed...

Engine cooled off, HOT water added everything should be fine, fixed the electric fan relay that caused it by bypassing it by bumping it off an accessory fuse... BAD idea I guess, that when the gremlin hit, first turn signals worked intermittently, However the Emergency flashers worked fine,,,, tried to replace a few relays (Turn Signal related) as soon as I replaced the one (Flasher Relay) by the A/C relay WAMMMMMMMMY.... that's when everything else quit....I was told most likely the GEM.

NOT,,, Checked and even replaced every fuse pertaining to the GEM Module,, Still the same...................... I have the 7.62X39 aimed in guy's HELP

Edit;
For some reason I have no power to fuses #19 or #20 with the key on or off. These being the #19/#20 located in the the panel located in the engine bay. Top two RED 10A upper left corner nearest the front left of the vehicle. These fuses are for the #19 Trailer/Camper adapter (Right stop/turn lamp) and #20 Trailer/Camper adapter (Left stop/turn lamp)

Last edited by Luthier; 09-17-2012 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Added info/fuel
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:16 PM
Bluegrass 7 Bluegrass 7 is offline
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Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.
Hey Luthier, you got a lot of things going on and have been done and some sorting out to do.
Here is the time to supply accurate info to shorten the process and minimize confusion.
We have to start from the beginning to try and not miss anything.
Your lucky I decided to look at your post or it would have been missed as the original poster's problems have been cleared as of his last post.
When starting new alway start your own thread so things don't get mixed up and confused.
The playground bully said that!
Redo your post in an order we can count on understanding well.
Include any mods done and where you hooked things up etc in an order and not skip around. We can't run that fast.
Later, I have to do other things now.
Good luck.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:29 PM
Luthier Luthier is offline
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Things that aren't working;
Power Windows
Moon Roof
Interior front roof console courtesy lights
Hazard Flashers
Turn Signals
OBD Port
Radio Back light
A/C Module back light
Door Ajar bell
Brake not engaged safety feature to release shifter lever
Engine compartment Hood Lamp
A/C blower stuck @ high speed
No Power to fuse #19 and #20 in engine bay fuse block.
Probably more, I started crying at this point(Close) like an idiot....
Engine does run nicely.



Mods to truck many, 2003 Harley Davidson Edition;

Suspension:

Hotchkis TVS, Hotchkis/Billstien Shocks, Hotchkis Sway’s F/R, 58” LFP Traction bars (Chromed), Performance Z Ceramic Brake pads, Develop-Mental Racing Panhard Bar (Chromed), Tires Toyos 295/45/20’s,

Exterior:

Blacked out front and rear Billet Ford ovals, Custom painted Harley emblems sides and rear, J. Jent S.S. Lower grill, S.S. Expedition Antenna, Harley Skull gas cap mod for trailer ball hole cover, A.I.M Industries 3” Cowl Hood Formula One window tint, Chrome/Amber Corner marker bulbs, Bright Box Headlight Kit,

Lightning taillights, Billet Gas door, Harley Davidson skull value stem caps and license plate bolts, Locking Ford Gas Cap, Shaved and Flipped Trailer hitch plug, Lightning L.E.D. Third Brake Light
D-M Racing Suicide (Tilt) Hood, D-M Racing Rear Window Vinyl
D-M Racing Billet Trailer hitch plug, D&S Graphics Third Brake Light Vinyl, Signs Now Rear Window Graphics


Engine Bay:

D-M Racing 30T Cogged upper pulley, 6lb. D-M Racing Cogged Quick Change Lower Pulley, D-M Racing Lipped Idler Tensioner with 90mm pulleys and an additional D-M Racing 90mm Idler pulley, 2 Auxiliary D-M Racing 90mm Pulleys, NGK TR6 Plugs Gapped @.34, SCT X-CAL II, RWTD Tune 15* Timing @ 11.8 A/F, Accu-Fab Single Blade Throttle Body Polished and Ported

Polished and Ported (with the Fin) Stiegemeier Eaton SC Stage 2 also polished on the outside as well, Polished and Ported (Stiegemeier) Stock Plenum, Stock FOMOCO Coils, Siemens Deka 60# Fuel Injectors, Twin Walbro 255LPH Dual Fuel Pumps

LFP E- Fan, LFP H/E Radiator, Gregg Evans (FTVB) Valve Body, Moroso Deep Aluminum Transmission Pan, Derale # DER-13021 Thermostat & Derale # DER-13750 Transmission Cooler, B&M Remote Transmission Filter, D-M Racing Aero Quip Trans Line Kit, 170* Thermostat, K&N Filter With Filter Sock, Polished & Ported C&L Intake Tube
Cannon Performance Full Stainless Steel Exhaust System 1 ¾ Primaries, 3” Random Technologies H/F Metal Matrix Cats, 3” Tubing, Dual 3” In / Out X - Flow Muffler all 304 Stainless Steel, Lightning exit
High performance EM Grounding Wire Kit and EM Positive Wiring kit, D-M Racing EGR #1 Delete Kit, New Bosh A/F Sensors front and rears 10/29/07, D-M Racing Oil Separator, Fumoto Oil Drain Value, Optima Yellow Top battery, Gates Cog & Gatorback Acc. belts, Diablo MAFi.a. Extender Set @ #2, A.T.E. Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid, Pi-Thon Hose Clamps, D-M Racing Cool Flow Block Cooler, Aluminum Navigator High Flow Water Pump

Chromed Accessories:

Hurst Line Lock with D-M Racing Polished Line–Lock Bracket
Under-Hood Stainless Steel Radiator/Air Shroud, HD Bolt Cover A/C Charge Cover, D-M Racing W.O.T. Bracket , D-M Racing Oil Sep. Bracket

Throttle linkage bracket, power steering brackets, EGR Module bracket, Intercooler tubes, Chromed stock Idler bracket, Jack Crank Rod and Radiator hose/Alternator bracket, Eddie Marines Billet battery hold down with Custom Harley Gel Overlay,
Billet fuse box cover, Door strikers, Pi-Thon Hose Clamps, Various Chicken Ears Billet pieces, Oil filler Cap, EVAP cover, EGR Cover, Boost by-Pass Cover,, D-M Racing Cool-Flow Brackets, Billet fuse Box Cover, Billet EGR Cover, Billet Hood Adjuster Cover, D-M Racing
Maf i.a. Mounting Bracket, BBK Chromed Billet Valve Covers

Interior:

Gel overlays on both lumbar ***** and Steering wheel oval, Three pod A-Pillar Pod with Auto Meter Ultra Lite Series – Boost / Vacuum Gauge, Transmission Temperature Gauge, Auto Meter Fuel Pressure Gauge,
Auto Meter Steering Column Pod Customized by D-M Racing to a Dual Pod,

Auto Meter D- PIC Gauge, Autometer Water Temperature Gauge, MM-Custom Works Dual Pod Surfboard, Dual Innovate LC-1 Wideband A/F Gauges, 2002 Harley Davidson Embroidered floor mats, Billet Develop-Mental Racing Door Sills Plates, Harley Shock Cap Covers on Headliner Buttons

Sound System:
JL Audio Mono Block Amp 250/1, Infinity Reference speakers Front and Rear, JL Audio Sub Woofer, Stock Head Unit
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 02:49 PM
Luthier Luthier is offline
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I do have a separate link, but I have bumped off of others that have the same issue to see if there was any resolve to their problems. Link to mine..
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...e-an-oger.html

Post # 9 simplified;

I have no water leakage problem.
My truck over heated while my trailer was connected. This was not a water every where boil over so no water in the engine bay nor did I rinse the engine bay off.
Engine cooled off.
E-Fan relay went out, fixed the electric fan relay by bypassing it.
We bumping it off an accessory fuse located under the hood in the fuse panel, #18...

BAD idea I guess, that is when the gremlin hit, first the turn signals worked intermittently, However the Emergency flashers worked fine.
There was also a power drain of sorts, a slow downward sweep of gauges and dash lights as the E-Fan slowed to a stop. NOT GOOD

We replaced all relays/flashers (Turn Signal related) because that was the first signs of the problem.

Soon as I replaced the Flasher Relay by the A/C relay WAMMMMMMMMY.... that's when everything else quit working.

Power Windows
Moon Roof
Interior front roof console courtesy lights
Hazard Flashers
Turn Signals
OBD Port
Radio Back light
A/C Module back light
Door Ajar bell
Brake not engaged safety feature to release shifter lever
Engine compartment Hood Lamp
A/C blower stuck @ high speed
No Power to fuse #19 and #20 in engine bay fuse block. In any key position.
These fuses are #19 Trailer/Camper adapter (Right stop/turn lamp) and #20 Trailer/Camper adapter (Left stop/turn lamp)

We Checked and or Replaced every fuse pertaining to the GEM Module.
I was told the issue was most likely the GEM.
Replaced GEM/BCM with a used one (Numbers Matching).
Still the same problems as before I started this Quest.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluegrass 7 View Post
Hey Luthier, you got a lot of things going on and have been done and some sorting out to do.
Here is the time to supply accurate info to shorten the process and minimize confusion.
We have to start from the beginning to try and not miss anything.
Your lucky I decided to look at your post or it would have been missed as the original poster's problems have been cleared as of his last post.
When starting new alway start your own thread so things don't get mixed up and confused.
The playground bully said that!
Redo your post in an order we can count on understanding well.
Include any mods done and where you hooked things up etc in an order and not skip around. We can't run that fast.
Later, I have to do other things now.
Good luck.

Last edited by Luthier; 09-17-2012 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:05 PM
Bluegrass 7 Bluegrass 7 is offline
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Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.
I need time to digest it all to see where a common point might be or mutiple issues with electrics.
I need to look at my service disc searching for what is common to many faults.

Thanks for the run down. You did a lot to the truck.
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:55 PM
Luthier Luthier is offline
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Yeah all hands on as well, this isn't my first Hot Rod,, but boy howdy it maybe my last.....
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:21 AM
Bluegrass 7 Bluegrass 7 is offline
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Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.Bluegrass 7 has a good reputation on FTE.
Looked over the situation and feel you have fuses still open and possibily burnt wiring.
If you don't have a copy of the fuse layout and ID go to FORD FLEET website and down load the manuel for your year.
Pages 182, 183 and 184.
Do a fuse check with a voltmeter at the locations feeding those circuits that are in trouble.
If you have no power on what is the hot side of the fuse, check the bottom side for burnt wiring.
Often times a burn takes out other nearby circuits.
What I am concerned about is your Efan and where it was hooked up.
It may have either developed a short or draws to much current for the place feeding it and caused a problem.

Some functions like the door ajar depend on the GEM as do the power windows and other funtions so they will be out until the root cause is found.
On the blower being stuck on high, the switch normally goes to ground for high in lue of through the dropping resistor to lower the speed.
A relay has to be operated or it's contacts burnt closed for the blower to run. The fuse feeding it obviously is good.
The question as I understand it is why is the blower on high speed or does it only run on high?
If only runs on high, the resistor is burned out for the lower speeds.
.
Take a step back and go about this in a systematic way one at a time until a pattern appears, you find wire/harrness issues and fuses out.
Restore one circuit and it's functions at a time until it's all done.
Replacing the flasher has me concerned about the wiring on that panel.
Hang in there.
I had for many years been a trouble shooter over the phone many times in the middle of the night on large computer systerm so this brings back memories of tracking trouble through large volumes of drawings and chasing from page to page, circuits and where they go directing and being directed to test.
A copy of the Haynes book for 97-03 may be helpfull for you to see how many of the circuits are wired. Not all are in the book and some of the fuse and color codes may not match what you have.
Look in the last chapter.
Get yourself a volt/ohm meter so you have a tool to work with.
.
Once anyone get into this level of change/issues, he has to become his own expert to keep the systems going because few others will take it on for time and expense.
Best I can offer from here at this time.
Let us know if you make progress.
Good luck.
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:21 AM
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