So this bronco I got, the guy converted from electric shift to manual but I know he didn't do everything right.....it will only go into 4-hi and is very touchy, if I pull back just a tiny bit too far on the lever it goes to neutral, and he didn't wire the lights....is there a post on how to properly do this?????

 

I am sure there are people on here very knowledgeable about this...I think he swapped transfer cases as I now have no hole for speedo gear, but will the vaccum still run the auto hubs even though its not electric shift anymore???? And is there a way to wire the 4x4 lights to still work???

 

I am sure there are people on here very knowledgeable about this...I think he swapped transfer cases as I now have no hole for speedo gear, but will the vaccum still run the auto hubs even though its not electric shift anymore???? And is there a way to wire the 4x4 lights to still work???

 

The hubs are not vaccum operated.

Your transfercase needs to be rebuilt, my guess is the pump spun and busted the forks, or the pads are completly gone from the forks and there is nothing left to hold it in the desired range. Not to worry though, this is a very easy transfercase to rebuild. You can replace everything but the chain for about 140 bucks and in a few hours.

For the speedo to work, you just need to get the rear bearing cover, sensor and plastic gear off another case and swap them onto your current one (easy while your allready rebuilding it).

There is a small (6") wire harness that plugs into a capped-off connector above the transmission and then into the indicator switch on the front of the transfercase for the indicator lights. You can grab one from the junkyard or a place that sells discountinued parts like www.greensales.com I can try and locate the PN for you tommorrow, but there is 2 different styles. The 87-91 cases (have a yoke on the back) use a two-wire indicator switch, and the 92-96 cases (round flange on the back) use a three-wire indicator switch.

You should take some good pictures of the case and post them here. I will help us identify which case you have (probably BW1356) and what version you have. There are subtle differences between early and late model bw1356 cases, and it sounds as though the previous owner may not hae been aware of this when he made the swap. Don't worry though, you can always swap out the parts so that it is fully compatible with your rig. Make sure you also get some good pictures of the linkage going to the case as well as the output (rear driveshaft).

 

Thanks for the info..I will get pics this evening but I don't have computer right now so I can only send them to an email...if someone will email me I will send them...JSSBLUES@gmail.com.....my 4 wheel high works I am just unsure the linkage is hooked up right..

 

I'll send you an email in a minute. There are 2 different forks in the case for 2 different purposes. One locks the sprokets together so that the front and rear outputs turn (seems to be mostly working), and the other moves the range slider back and forth for HI/LO/N. One thing these both have in common is that the forks are always touching them while they spin, so the pads will wear out and if not repaired it will quickly eat through the soft aluminum the forks are made of.

Here is a good thread of a guy rebuilding his bw1356. His is from a pickup so it has the slip shaft rear output, but everything else is the same. Take note of the moddification he makes to the pump arm towards the end of the thread.......you NEED to do this. Ignore his first attempt where he attatches a bolt to it, and look at the second version with the round bar attatched to the arm.

Rebuild your own transfer case. BW1356 - FSB Forums

 

If auto hubs don't use vaccum to lock in and out then how do they work??? Its just that I have read about a solenoid thing that runs on vaccum for the hubs

 

How Do Locking Hubs Work? | eHow.com

 

Thats a 92-96 bw1356 transfercase that someone put into yours. They switched out the rear driveshaft so that it would work with the round flange that the newer case has. Unfortunatly there is no way to put the speedo gear onto the newer case without swapping out the main shaft. The newer cases don't have provisions for it since it wasn't used. Your gonna have to get a fixed-yoke mainshaft, tailhousing with the speedo hole drilled out, speedo gear, ball, and clip, speedo sensor, and the cable if its missing. Your also going to have to switch back to the older driveshaft because you can't use the fixed yoke mainshaft with the flange adaptor (it will dig into the rear housing).

This is the rear bearing cover/tailhousing. You can see the hole where the speedo sensor goes, but this one is newer and its not drilled out.


This is where the small indicator harness plugs into the case once you find one (lights). Find out how many pins it has in it (they came with 2 and 3). You can unscrew it if necessary to see the pins (7/8").


This link bar shown with the arrow is transmission-specific. Whoever did the swap may not have known this, and it might be part of the problem. It should be stamped with the transmission it works with on one of the two ends with the rubber grommet (IE: E40D, ZF5, etc). Make sure this number is the same as the transmission you have in the truck.


You can get all these parts on ebay for pretty cheap now.

 

Here's the speedometer parts you'll need:


This is a fix-yoke mainshaft, it looks almost identical to the fixed-flange ones found on the newer cases, except that the rear splines are slightly shorter, and it has a small hole near the back for the check ball that retains the speedo gear.

 

Thanks man you are awesome..wish there were more people out there with your knowledge and kindness...I will update tomorrow ...thanks again

 

If you still have access to the electric case that originaly came with the truck, that would provide all the parts you need to make this case compatible with your rig. You might have to get the newer push down style linkage for this case to work properly. There is a little arm on the transfercase that the linkage attatches to and moves. The 87-91 cases are in 2wd when this arm is pointing at 10 O'clock, and the newer 92-96 cases are in 2wd with this arm pointing at 12 O' clock. It's alot easier to just switch to the linkage that matches your year range of case, rather then try to modify the linkage. You can try disconnecting the linkage from this arm and moving the arm by hand through the different ranges to check if the case is working properly. It's a little difficult because it takes some effort to move the arm, and its easy to skip past 4hi and N doing it by hand. Make sure you put your emergency brake on because the truck will roll over you with the case in neutral.

 

I disconnected the linkage and it works just fine so you were right....has the wrong linkage..

 

That linkage "STYLE" is correct for your truck, but the arm going back to the case is probably the wrong one. Each transmission is a different lenght, and so the linkage has to be as well. Because you have the newer style case, I would recommend getting the newer "push down" style linkage found on the 92-96 trucks. The only thing you'll have to do to make it work in your truck is set the bezel over the hole in the floor and mark and drill new holes for it (they are very small). If you want your speedometer to work again your gonna have to tear apart the entire case, so you might as well rebuild it and do the pump arm mod. If the pump spins free it will destroy alot of stuff and cost more to fix.

What transmission does your truck have? If you post the shift pattern I can tell you and help you locate the correct linkage for your combination. You could also send me a picture of the transmission pan for identification.

 

I just cut the little nub off the shifter bracket, works great now