I have a 1996 F-150 5.0 that has a split in the EGR tube in the flex part under the EGR. I have an insufficient air flow through EGR code and I assume that is the problem. I wrapped a soup can around it and cranked down 3 hose clamps on it. I can't feel any exhaust flow anymore, but the code keeps returning and I can still hear it. How difficult is it to replace the tube, how much will it cost for parts (any gasket replacement and tube), and are there any negative effects for not fixing it? I don't have emissions to pass.

 

Your truck has a unique EGR tube with a DPFE sensor attached which effectively determines gas flow through the tube, that is the source of your codes and those codes will never go away unless the tube is replaced with a good one. That said, disabled EGR by blocking the tube at each end is safe to do.. the computer will easily compensate for the lack of recycled exhaust gas, you'll just have the codes and possibly a check engine light to annoy you.

 

Well it has had the check engine light on for as long as I can remember, but thinking about it, it starts to idle a little rough after thirty seconds and that is the only thing I can think of that is noticeably wrong.

 

i have one off a 95 if your interested.

 

EGR related. Computer adjusts for EGR flow after that period of time and apparently thinks it's getting either more or less than it is.

If you don't have inspection where you live I would highly recommend EGR delete. Makes everything simpler.

 

Will the check engine light stay on with an egr delete?

 

A 1995 tube will not work.




I do not think they make a EGR delete for a 1996 5.0L.

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An EGR delete is not that simple on the OPs 1996. The PCM is looking for the actual flow of gases through the tube, not a position feedback signal like the earlier EGR systems.

 

I think the correct part number for the EGR tube on your 1996 is F6TZ-9D477-E. Be prepared for sticker shock.

 

The one upside of the '96 is that it is OBD-2 which means the EGR systems can be turned off with a handheld tuner, that will disable the system and eliminate any related codes. However a tuner like this isn't exactly cheap so it may not be worth your while unless you have fairly extensive engine mods planned for the future.

 

I am definitely not replacing the tube. It could be welded if removed, but I am interested in the tuner. I have never dealt with one. Are they just plug and go or is it wired in. Also, would it produce enough of a difference in power or fuel economy on the 5.0 if it is stock to make it worth it? A tad more power while towing would be handy.