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Broken EBPV Valve Tube!

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Old 01-23-2012, 09:47 PM
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Exclamation Broken EBPV Valve Tube!

Ok, so I went and took off my EBPV and tube to clean them out, turns out my tube has a 1 inch crack in it. I can blow into it and feel the air coming out of it... Also, my EBPV although dirty, wasn't clogged with soot, there was a lot in there but I could see all the way in. I stuck a pipe cleaner in about 1/2 of an inch in and tried to clean it out a bit but didn't get anywhere. What do I do? I know I need to replace the tube, how do I know if I need to replace the valve too? I'm thinking the diaphragm in there is stuck or something? It seems like someone has been in there before, the nuts were all really too easy to get off. I was hoping to open it up and see it fully plugged and say "so THERE was the problem". I'm surprised and suspicious that its actually not plugged because I'm getting 12mpg tops on the highway. I'm going to leave it apart for now and call the dealer in the morning, see if they have the tube in stock. Otherwise, Ill go to partsguyed or diesel-o-rings.com...

So, to recap. Do I need to replace the EBPV sensor or should just replacing the tube and cleaning the EBPV a bit alleviate my mpg problems? For now, I'm going to see if I can clean it, but I don't think that stuffs coming out. Also, if anyone knows, what usually happens when the EBPV tube is cracked?
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:51 PM
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Correct way to know whether or not the sensor needs replaced would be replace/repair tube, then view live data of the sensor's readings.
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:56 PM
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Replace the tube and move on.

The tube has nothing to do with the valve.

Replace the tube.
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:56 PM
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my experience, i removed the tube to clean, only for it to get twisted up on the wrench. So for the last year, i have a npt cap on the sensor, ziptied up and outta the way, and for where the tube enteres the manifold, i removed it and put a bolt in its place.....18-20mpg all day long, unloaded...(zf6)
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD
Correct way to know whether or not the sensor needs replaced would be replace/repair tube, then view live data of the sensor's readings.
You can also check the sensor with a volt meter. Its a much more crude method though.
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:05 PM
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Also, looking around on Google. I see other people posting about this AND their Engine Oil Temp sensor. I've been getting problems with that thing too. It just randomly pegs my EOT gauge at 212* for a few minutes a few times a day and then reads normally the rest of the day. I see that the EBPV is controlled by the Engine Oil Temp Sensor, so... I actually dont know. Ive been working on so many things on this truck the past few weeks my brains fried. Just help me! I cant do 12 mpg anymore, I'm literally declaring bankruptcy and things are tight. I will have to check to see if my monitor will show me the EBPV readings or not, what should it be reading normally?
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:33 PM
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Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Readings with KOEO should be around atmospheric pressure(14.7PSI), same or close at idle, then will rise with boost/back pressure, stock form, probably around 45psi or 50.
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:15 PM
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Ok, so assuming my EBPV is good, I felt in there with a wire and measured how far of the way in I could go. I took a 1/8 drill bit and cleaned it out, then I took a 3/16's and cleaned it out the rest of the way. Brake Cleaner, a shot from the air nozzle and she was pretty squeaky. The sensor bracket opening was the hard one to clean, I spent a good hour with a pipe cleaner and got almost nowhere, even with brake cleaner. So, I took one of those little flags you stick in your yard to mark utilities, ya know, the metal things with plastic flags? I stuck the metal end in my bench vise, just a little bit, hit it with a hammer to get a good 90* out of it, then I took it to my bench grinder and ground it down to a little over 1/4 inch. Then, I took off the plastic flag and put that end in my drill. I put it in, drilled real slow for a minute or two while putting in a shot of brake cleaner every 15 seconds or so and then slowly sped up going up and down, after a few minutes I was able to go all the way through. Then I just ran it up and down and cleaned it out that way. Worked awesomely. I then zip-tied the sensor outta the way and went on a drive. Oddly enough, I still get 17 lbs of peak boost with the stupid thing disconnected. I would have thought my boost would have suffered, although, I swear it felt much slower. So thanks for the info guys! I'll have a tube on order tomorrow, hook it up, then I'll test the pressure using BigAls #'s. Thanks a million guys, off to bed! On a side note, I found it strange that I encountered absolutely no check engine light with the sensor disconnected and the tube unplugged. Is this normal?
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:24 PM
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Many run without the EBPS in place, when mine was not working correctly my shifts were very harsh, even today if I unplug the sensor my trans will shift very firmly into gear.

It will not set a SES light with it disconnected. I will show up during a diagnostic check I believe it is a 478 code, IIRC

Sensor is not cheap, so you may chose to just cap it off and leave it disconnected. FYI if the sensor is bad.
 
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:37 PM
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Clay also has the tubes. I got mine there. I didn't need to install it yet, my tube is clear even after 160K.
Chet
 
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