CUSTOM CCV MOD FOR 6.4
#16
01-27-2012, 01:23 PM
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I want to thank you for the responses to my questions. I have been reviewing earlier posts to gain an understanding of our diesel engine. If I see a post that I want to keep and review I print the post and place it in a binder which I plan on building for reference. I had noticed the information on various modifications (cold air inductions, diesel programmers, anti-theft devices, and others) and I have gone to various websites to review information. Luckly for me, I live in an area where truck theft is very low, however, I will be giving the Ravelco lock system some serious thought, I just have to get to a state where their is a dealership that installs. Currently the closest is over 6 hours away. Also after my warrenty expires, I will be adding a few modifications to my vehicle. I normally keep my trucks for sometime, I had a small Toyota pickup for 17 years and would still have it if it had not been involved in an accident, and I still own a 1999 F150 which a co-worker wants to buy. So I plan on keeping this F250 for sometime, and I will keep the maintenance up-to-date. I have been researching for the tech bulletins which come out and I was wondering if there is a website that lists all of them for the past 2years so that I can review them at once.
Dave
Dave
#17
01-27-2012, 01:41 PM
#18
02-15-2012, 11:21 PM
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#19
04-01-2012, 10:42 AM
#20
04-04-2012, 10:14 PM
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Actual i just started with blackstone and only have one under my belt but im going for a 6000 mile oil sample and if its good im goona keep going tell they say it needs changing, they claim they have a few 6.4"s with over 10,000 on the oil and still going strong using a bypass filter system like mine!Fuel dillutions seems to driving the oil change more than anything else, since im deleted i think im gooing go the distance
#21
04-04-2012, 10:15 PM
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#22
04-05-2012, 07:41 AM
Nice! I have a Diesel Site coolant filter on the way along with an Amsoil oil filter bypass kit (BMK21) and Filter Mag RA coming. I plan on a full EGR delete and studding the motor later (maybe along with BatMoWheeling the turbo[s]). I wish I had done them earlier, but I don't beat on my truck and it's only at 22K miles right now, and I need to last at least 10 times longer!
#23
04-06-2012, 01:32 AM
Just Excellent
This is an excellent thread Sand Demon.
Thank you a ton for getting it going.
Even though I am in Afghanistan, I still went and bought a CCV4500 on E-bay, mainly because of your postings.
I have had a FS-2500 in the garage for about three years, but because of all the deployments, have never installed it.
I am looking forward to doing both MODS at the same time when I return.
If I could please, and hating to be a pest, I am a bit lost on the fittings list you put out.
But then again I am new
.
I want to steel braid the Mod and understand the -16 AN sizing, (ID-.83 if I am correct).
Where I am falling on my face are the the connectors. Are the straights and 180's that you are using necking down to -12 to fit into the CCV4500?
I have looked on on both the XRP and Russell web sites, but just want to ask an expert that has done this, before spending another $300.00 or so buying the wrong parts.
Thank you for the reply in advance.
~Mike~
Thank you a ton for getting it going.
Even though I am in Afghanistan, I still went and bought a CCV4500 on E-bay, mainly because of your postings.
I have had a FS-2500 in the garage for about three years, but because of all the deployments, have never installed it.
I am looking forward to doing both MODS at the same time when I return.
If I could please, and hating to be a pest, I am a bit lost on the fittings list you put out.
But then again I am new
.I want to steel braid the Mod and understand the -16 AN sizing, (ID-.83 if I am correct).
Where I am falling on my face are the the connectors. Are the straights and 180's that you are using necking down to -12 to fit into the CCV4500?
I have looked on on both the XRP and Russell web sites, but just want to ask an expert that has done this, before spending another $300.00 or so buying the wrong parts.
Thank you for the reply in advance.
~Mike~
#24
04-06-2012, 08:53 PM
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This is an excellent thread Sand Demon.
Thank you a ton for getting it going.
Even though I am in Afghanistan, I still went and bought a CCV4500 on E-bay, mainly because of your postings.
I have had a FS-2500 in the garage for about three years, but because of all the deployments, have never installed it.
I am looking forward to doing both MODS at the same time when I return.
If I could please, and hating to be a pest, I am a bit lost on the fittings list you put out.
But then again I am new.
I want to steel braid the Mod and understand the -16 AN sizing, (ID-.83 if I am correct).
Where I am falling on my face are the the connectors. Are the straights and 180's that you are using necking down to -12 to fit into the CCV4500?
I have looked on on both the XRP and Russell web sites, but just want to ask an expert that has done this, before spending another $300.00 or so buying the wrong parts.
Thank you for the reply in advance.
~Mike~
Thank you a ton for getting it going.
Even though I am in Afghanistan, I still went and bought a CCV4500 on E-bay, mainly because of your postings.
I have had a FS-2500 in the garage for about three years, but because of all the deployments, have never installed it.
I am looking forward to doing both MODS at the same time when I return.
If I could please, and hating to be a pest, I am a bit lost on the fittings list you put out.
But then again I am new
.I want to steel braid the Mod and understand the -16 AN sizing, (ID-.83 if I am correct).
Where I am falling on my face are the the connectors. Are the straights and 180's that you are using necking down to -12 to fit into the CCV4500?
I have looked on on both the XRP and Russell web sites, but just want to ask an expert that has done this, before spending another $300.00 or so buying the wrong parts.
Thank you for the reply in advance.
~Mike~
#26
04-10-2012, 03:55 AM
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Nice job on the install!!! Caution for Northerners for this mod
Hi Sanddemon,
Installed a Racor CCV6000 a few years back and like the way it keeps my inter-cooler and boots clean. Drain it at oil changes. Found that over the winter (Michigan) it got plugged with oil mist and moisture (think it's because of the temp difference from the gasses and the metal case of the unit) they call it an emulsification. It compounded fast and formed a block of ice inside. Have a remote monitor (from Racor) to see if the pressure builds in the CCV , and it did when this happened.
So my point is keep a close eye on it in the winter and have a spare. When it starts getting plugged it don't take long.
I'll be installing a heater on the 6000 with a switch for the winter months so it may be drained.
Dave
Installed a Racor CCV6000 a few years back and like the way it keeps my inter-cooler and boots clean. Drain it at oil changes. Found that over the winter (Michigan) it got plugged with oil mist and moisture (think it's because of the temp difference from the gasses and the metal case of the unit) they call it an emulsification. It compounded fast and formed a block of ice inside. Have a remote monitor (from Racor) to see if the pressure builds in the CCV , and it did when this happened.
So my point is keep a close eye on it in the winter and have a spare. When it starts getting plugged it don't take long.
I'll be installing a heater on the 6000 with a switch for the winter months so it may be drained.
Dave
#27
04-10-2012, 06:18 AM
#28
04-10-2012, 08:24 AM
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Hi Sanddemon,
Installed a Racor CCV6000 a few years back and like the way it keeps my inter-cooler and boots clean. Drain it at oil changes. Found that over the winter (Michigan) it got plugged with oil mist and moisture (think it's because of the temp difference from the gasses and the metal case of the unit) they call it an emulsification. It compounded fast and formed a block of ice inside. Have a remote monitor (from Racor) to see if the pressure builds in the CCV , and it did when this happened.
So my point is keep a close eye on it in the winter and have a spare. When it starts getting plugged it don't take long.
I'll be installing a heater on the 6000 with a switch for the winter months so it may be drained.
Dave
Installed a Racor CCV6000 a few years back and like the way it keeps my inter-cooler and boots clean. Drain it at oil changes. Found that over the winter (Michigan) it got plugged with oil mist and moisture (think it's because of the temp difference from the gasses and the metal case of the unit) they call it an emulsification. It compounded fast and formed a block of ice inside. Have a remote monitor (from Racor) to see if the pressure builds in the CCV , and it did when this happened.
So my point is keep a close eye on it in the winter and have a spare. When it starts getting plugged it don't take long.
I'll be installing a heater on the 6000 with a switch for the winter months so it may be drained.
Dave
I didn't know they had a monitor for it, ill have to check it out id like that, beats crawling under the truck all the time to check the minder on top of the canister. I dont think are winters are harsh enough for that issue, we are a common low of about 38-40 degrees above, very rare to see less than 30 degrees but the heater sounds like a great fix. Thanks for the added info
#29
04-12-2012, 07:53 AM
I am also trying to figure out the "adaptation" into the Oil filler tube.
I apologize if these questions have already been answered.
I am just trying to have the parts together before going home.
Thank you
~Mike~
#30
04-17-2012, 07:47 AM
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Brother, do you by chance have the fitting size for the adapter to go into the Racor CCV4500 from an AN16 fitting?
I am also trying to figure out the "adaptation" into the Oil filler tube.
I apologize if these questions have already been answered.
I am just trying to have the parts together before going home.
Thank you
~Mike~
I am also trying to figure out the "adaptation" into the Oil filler tube.
I apologize if these questions have already been answered.
I am just trying to have the parts together before going home.
Thank you
~Mike~
The fitting adapter for the racor is a -12 oring seal x -16 JIC, on this fitting the oring seals the end of the threads on the -12 side on the adapter
The fitting on the oil tube was a weld on is a weld-on style fitting for a steel hydrolic line. You will need to find the closest fitting you can on the weld side. The fitting is not perfect fit so you ither have to machine a few thousands out of the fitting or use a little emory cloth and sand the fitting out of the oil fill. In order for the fitting to fit on you have to cut the end of the barb off on the oil fill where the existing hose connects. Be very care to only cut what is needed theres not alot to work with. I used the style fitting where the hose ties back into the intake.