91 F250 Will not start turns over no fire
#1
91 F250 Will not start turns over no fire
Yesterday I was driving and my truck just stopped after I went over a hump in the road, and she stopped died about 1 tenths of a mile after the hump. I checked the safety switch under the dash working she turns over but the fireing Fuel pump working come on when key is turned and goes off after a couple of seconds filters clean I replaced the coil, The first coil I could not see any spark I replaced it there is 11.5V at the coil plug I now I have power to the coil the second coil no spark either. This is an EFI <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Any suggestions
Any suggestions
Last edited by Chefsteele; 01-20-2012 at 07:36 PM. Reason: For got to Put EFI
#6
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#8
If it's EFI, you have a computer on which you can run a self-test:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Given the problem appeared after hitting a bump, that tells me the problem is MUCH more than likely electrical, and some of these problems can be hard to find.
There's sumthin' called a Wiggle Test where you wiggle wires to see if the symptoms change... electrical connectors can become corroded, the insulation on wiring can become burned or chafed and result in the underlying wire becoming corroded or shorted to ground, etc. Electrical components can burn out with a sudden jarring (kinda like a light bulb).
I would begin with first observing all the wiring and cleaning up all the connections, then do the computer self-tests.
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Given the problem appeared after hitting a bump, that tells me the problem is MUCH more than likely electrical, and some of these problems can be hard to find.
There's sumthin' called a Wiggle Test where you wiggle wires to see if the symptoms change... electrical connectors can become corroded, the insulation on wiring can become burned or chafed and result in the underlying wire becoming corroded or shorted to ground, etc. Electrical components can burn out with a sudden jarring (kinda like a light bulb).
I would begin with first observing all the wiring and cleaning up all the connections, then do the computer self-tests.
#9
Thank you I will give it a shoot
If it's EFI, you have a computer on which you can run a self-test:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Given the problem appeared after hitting a bump, that tells me the problem is MUCH more than likely electrical, and some of these problems can be hard to find.
There's sumthin' called a Wiggle Test where you wiggle wires to see if the symptoms change... electrical connectors can become corroded, the insulation on wiring can become burned or chafed and result in the underlying wire becoming corroded or shorted to ground, etc. Electrical components can burn out with a sudden jarring (kinda like a light bulb).
I would begin with first observing all the wiring and cleaning up all the connections, then do the computer self-tests.
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Given the problem appeared after hitting a bump, that tells me the problem is MUCH more than likely electrical, and some of these problems can be hard to find.
There's sumthin' called a Wiggle Test where you wiggle wires to see if the symptoms change... electrical connectors can become corroded, the insulation on wiring can become burned or chafed and result in the underlying wire becoming corroded or shorted to ground, etc. Electrical components can burn out with a sudden jarring (kinda like a light bulb).
I would begin with first observing all the wiring and cleaning up all the connections, then do the computer self-tests.
#11
You should check if you have fuel pressure and spark at the plugs, the coil is not enough...read through here, and run the test, 5 pages..Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).
#13
You should check if you have fuel pressure and spark at the plugs, the coil is not enough...read through here, and run the test, 5 pages..Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).
#14
just mark where the rotor is pointing, and make sure when you install, it is in the same place. Then do your timing.
also, you need to go buy the tool to take out the ICM, it is a must have.
#15
You should check if you have fuel pressure and spark at the plugs, the coil is not enough...read through here, and run the test, 5 pages..Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).