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91 F250 Will not start turns over no fire

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  #1  
Old 01-20-2012, 07:22 PM
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91 F250 Will not start turns over no fire

Yesterday I was driving and my truck just stopped after I went over a hump in the road, and she stopped died about 1 tenths of a mile after the hump. I checked the safety switch under the dash working she turns over but the fireing Fuel pump working come on when key is turned and goes off after a couple of seconds filters clean I replaced the coil, The first coil I could not see any spark I replaced it there is 11.5V at the coil plug I now I have power to the coil the second coil no spark either. This is an EFI <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Any suggestions
 

Last edited by Chefsteele; 01-20-2012 at 07:36 PM. Reason: For got to Put EFI
  #2  
Old 01-20-2012, 07:32 PM
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Moved here from 80-86.
 
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Old 01-20-2012, 07:34 PM
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Thank you

Sorry I have Bad eyes
 
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:43 PM
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possible solution

I their some body who can advice me or a possible solution
 
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:48 PM
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One of my old trucks did this to me once and it was just the wires going to the coil
 
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:53 PM
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could really only be two things

1 ICM, located on the dizzy
2 pickup coil inside


Mine was number 2 the other day, the magnet broke off.


Make sure you do a computer (KOEO) test first.
 
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mustangman65_79
could really only be two things

1 ICM, located on the dizzy
2 pickup coil inside


Mine was number 2 the other day, the magnet broke off.


Make sure you do a computer (KOEO) test first.
I dont Have a computer to do a Key On Eigine Off test

What is a dizzy,
 
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:45 AM
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If it's EFI, you have a computer on which you can run a self-test:

Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

Given the problem appeared after hitting a bump, that tells me the problem is MUCH more than likely electrical, and some of these problems can be hard to find.

There's sumthin' called a Wiggle Test where you wiggle wires to see if the symptoms change... electrical connectors can become corroded, the insulation on wiring can become burned or chafed and result in the underlying wire becoming corroded or shorted to ground, etc. Electrical components can burn out with a sudden jarring (kinda like a light bulb).

I would begin with first observing all the wiring and cleaning up all the connections, then do the computer self-tests.
 
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:06 PM
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Thank you I will give it a shoot

Originally Posted by ctubutis
If it's EFI, you have a computer on which you can run a self-test:

Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

Given the problem appeared after hitting a bump, that tells me the problem is MUCH more than likely electrical, and some of these problems can be hard to find.

There's sumthin' called a Wiggle Test where you wiggle wires to see if the symptoms change... electrical connectors can become corroded, the insulation on wiring can become burned or chafed and result in the underlying wire becoming corroded or shorted to ground, etc. Electrical components can burn out with a sudden jarring (kinda like a light bulb).

I would begin with first observing all the wiring and cleaning up all the connections, then do the computer self-tests.
 
  #10  
Old 01-21-2012, 05:14 PM
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I have run a self test 11-111-11-111----1-1-1-1-1
23 23 11111

does this mean anything? I know the 23 means a low voltage

ideas
 
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:39 PM
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You should check if you have fuel pressure and spark at the plugs, the coil is not enough...read through here, and run the test, 5 pages..Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).
 
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:46 PM
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No spark at Coil I have fule pr
 
  #13  
Old 01-21-2012, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Slip ford man
You should check if you have fuel pressure and spark at the plugs, the coil is not enough...read through here, and run the test, 5 pages..Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).
I can not get the skrews out of the ICM I do not want to take the Distributor out. the hole is to samall for my 1/8" scokets
 
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Chefsteele
I can not get the skrews out of the ICM I do not want to take the Distributor out. the hole is to samall for my 1/8" scokets
not much of a choice here. I have to take mine out also.

just mark where the rotor is pointing, and make sure when you install, it is in the same place. Then do your timing.

also, you need to go buy the tool to take out the ICM, it is a must have.
 
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Slip ford man
You should check if you have fuel pressure and spark at the plugs, the coil is not enough...read through here, and run the test, 5 pages..Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).
I checked my spark plug no spark at all
 


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