Take all the classes you can. I never had that opportunity. Some of it can be pretty tough, so patience and the willing to try again is a virtue.

 

What about screen, like plastic or aluminum?

 

Not sure what your problems were with fiberglass resin, I don't recall such an experience. Was it by chance stored in a garage and maybe it got at or near freezing at some time?

In any event, I used to fly remote-controlled model airplanes as a kid, and sometimes the "bodywork" involved sheets of fiberglass cloth + resin. Might look around in some hobby and craft stores and see if something sparks your creative mind.

 

We used a silk replacement called "silk span" IIRC.

 

Going to go to the hardware store to see what all they have. Maybe a couple of stores, along with the fabric store again to see if they have a thinner cloth that may work better.



I bought the resin Friday after noon, so as far as I know, it's fresh.

That silk span, I bought some cloth from the local hobby shop that deals a lot with rc airplanes. It's really thin and fine weave, but it has no stretch so I can't contour it.

I checked it just a minute ago and it only cured in one spot, where I used the fine cloth from the hobby store. The entire part that was covered with fleece is still wet. Not sure what happened. I think I need to get away from fleece. Back to the drawing board and research some more.

 

Well, I have minimal experience with fiberglass, but a couple of things come to mind.

I believe fleece comes in varying weights and maybe a different type of fleece would work better.

The adhesive is solvent based and so is the fiberglass resin; have you considered a different adhesive. Also, have you considered using small clamps or even binder clips to secure the fleece until the resin sets? What about a series of small, but strong magnets? Just a thought.

Also, have you tried some test strips of fleece stapled to a piece of wood, just to make confirm the mixing ratios to get the resin to set up? If the recommended ratios don't work, I would considered another brand of resin.

Just a few thoughts. I hope they help. Good luck.

 

IIRC, silk span would stretch in one dimension, but not both. However, when the paint (called dope) was applied it would shrink up tight.

 

Last night I was thinking about basically "sewing" the fabric to the frame, to the nest nearest tube, thinking it would keep everything tight. Then cutting strings when the resin had hardened. I can put a lot of force on the framework and it doesn't move or anything, there's plenty of cross bars in it. Definitely need to find a better way to fasten.


That silk span is something different than I was thinking (did some more checking on it). Problem is, is that I need it to stretch in two or more directions. I'll see if I can find some today and check it out.

Thanks for the info guys!

 

I think the dash problems are resolved....hopefully.

First, this morning worked on the gauge cluster and got the holes drilled. Just need to wait for the dash to be completed, do any final fitting and powder-coat it semi-gloss black.



This afternoon, got back to the dash and made some progress. I decided to go the foam route for supporting the fiberglass. Picked up a sheet of 2" foam board and cut it into strips. Attached it to the metal frame with some spray adhesive, then filled the gaps with expanding foam. The expanding foam is also acting like more adhesive to hold things tight and in place. It's not the prettiest thing, but it's working really good.



After things cured, it's actually very rigid.

Starting to shape the foam:





I'm using a shorter long board with 40 grit sandpaper. After things are sanded to the shape I want, there will be a plastic film applied over the foam to protect it from the chemicals in the resin. Once the resin has cured, I can hopefully just pop off the foam and peel away the plastic film.

This method is just going to be used on the passenger side and the center console, where things have to be kept really straight. The drivers side, I just used some Ponte cloth and brushed on the resin. It set up really good this time and looks good.





After the resin has fully cured, the inset for the gauges and hole for the steering wheel will be cut out, then the sides and inset will be done using the same method.

Slowly, but surely things are looking up for the dash. Sometimes it takes a failure or two to get it right. Learning experience, I guess, is what you would call it.


On a side note, I broke a tooth clean off in my sleep the other day, how the heck???? Now I have to wait a week and a half to get in to see the dentist and have a crown done (about a grand worth of work). What's next to take away from my truck fund??

 

Looking good! The foam is a good idea and will let you shape it just the way you want it. Are you using epoxy or polyester resin?

Bummer about the tooth. I've had a few teething problems myself lately. Not fun.

 

Hey maybe alittle late but,

I saw this on Spike TV during Horsepower on Trucks



Zap2It Mobile TV Listings

They are making a bumper out of fleece and resin

might be good to watch still even

Hope this helps

Devin

 

Double post

 

Wow, Dave! That is looking great. Sorry to hear about the tooth. I know how not fun and expensive that can be. Good luck.

 

Using a poly resin. Its readily available around here, unlike the epoxy. I've been doing a bunch of digging around on sites like fiberglassforums.com and a lot of people are using poly with good results.


To shape the console, I was going to make a hot wire cutter, but then got to thinking, you dummy, that's not going to work. As soon as the wire touches the metal frame, it'll be a dead short and not heat the wire. So, now I'm looking at using windshield cutting wire, just have to order some. The reasoning is, I'm thinking it will be easier to follow the oddly-shaped frame with wire rather than sanding.

 

very cool, that is going to be awesome, big props on having the ***** to try it haha