Rear Hatch Barn Door Storage Modification Build thread
#1
Rear Hatch Barn Door Storage Modification Build thread
Well, I finally got out to the shop for a few afternoons and built my storage panels for the rear barn doors. It seemed like a waste not to take advantage of the hollow rear doors. My goals were to make it look as factory as possible, gain storage, and be able to go back to stock if needed.
For materials I used:
1/2 sheet of 3/4" AC plywood
1/4" sheet 1/2" AC plywood
1 yard of carpet from Stock Carpet
1 1/2" plastic drive rivets
3 plastic bins I had already
3 pairs of 2 1/2" hinges
2 RV baggage door latches
Total Investment was around $130
I know I could probably have done it cheaper but I didn't want it to look cobbled after all the work I did.
I started on the passenger door:
Here's the factory interior of the door
Marked for cutting
Cut out using a Rotozip
After I cut that out I did square off the corners on the right. To the left you will notice the rivets for the factory bracing.
I traced the factory trim panel into a piece of the 3/4" plywood and cut it out. This is just a guideline and I had to do some more fitting and cutting after that.
Here's where it started to get fun. The rear doors are actually curved.
To solve that I traced the end profile of the panels on the plywood, cut them out, and fitted them to the plywood.
From there I transferred measurements to the plywood and cut the door opening
The next step was building the actual storage box. I made it out of 1/2" plywood and attached it to the plywood panel.
For attaching the panels I used 1 1/2" drive rivets. These are commonly used in construction for attaching 4x8 FRP panels to studs so they are plenty strong. I first maked the locations ( I didn't use the factory holes, I drilled new) drilled them, and then drilled with a spade bit to countersink the heads.
After that I got in a hurry and missed some pics. I then painted the back side of the panel and the inside of the box. There wasn't much to the carpet, just cut, stretched, and stapled around the edges. I cut the plywood door down to allow room for the carpet, attached latch and hinges, and installed the panels. Here's the passenger one completed.
And yes, that is my reciever hitch in a tube sock. It keeps it from clanking around in there and getting rust on everything. It isn't a huge storage compartment but it is the smaller door and I learned a few tricks that I used on the other door.
Because I didn't use the factory holes, the original panel will pop back in place. I also saved the fiberglass parts I cut out should I ever need to reattach them in the future.
The drivers side:
Basic construction was the same with a few changes to get more storage.
1st I tapered the storage box and gained 1" in depth at top because of the curve in the door
2nd I cut the bottom out of it and stuck some plastic storage bins in there for little stuff. Because of that I had to put the bins in and their cover after the panel was in the door
And complete. The red bins are under the hinged bottom and there are 3 of them
The things I learned:
The rivets hold ok but I snuck a few screws in also so the panel doesn't pop off when you slam the door
Carpet has a direction, that's why the drivers side door looks funny, it's upside down. I may change it later if it bothers me too much.
Please ask any and all questions, hope it gives someone and idea or inspiration.
For materials I used:
1/2 sheet of 3/4" AC plywood
1/4" sheet 1/2" AC plywood
1 yard of carpet from Stock Carpet
1 1/2" plastic drive rivets
3 plastic bins I had already
3 pairs of 2 1/2" hinges
2 RV baggage door latches
Total Investment was around $130
I know I could probably have done it cheaper but I didn't want it to look cobbled after all the work I did.
I started on the passenger door:
Here's the factory interior of the door
Marked for cutting
Cut out using a Rotozip
After I cut that out I did square off the corners on the right. To the left you will notice the rivets for the factory bracing.
I traced the factory trim panel into a piece of the 3/4" plywood and cut it out. This is just a guideline and I had to do some more fitting and cutting after that.
Here's where it started to get fun. The rear doors are actually curved.
To solve that I traced the end profile of the panels on the plywood, cut them out, and fitted them to the plywood.
From there I transferred measurements to the plywood and cut the door opening
The next step was building the actual storage box. I made it out of 1/2" plywood and attached it to the plywood panel.
For attaching the panels I used 1 1/2" drive rivets. These are commonly used in construction for attaching 4x8 FRP panels to studs so they are plenty strong. I first maked the locations ( I didn't use the factory holes, I drilled new) drilled them, and then drilled with a spade bit to countersink the heads.
After that I got in a hurry and missed some pics. I then painted the back side of the panel and the inside of the box. There wasn't much to the carpet, just cut, stretched, and stapled around the edges. I cut the plywood door down to allow room for the carpet, attached latch and hinges, and installed the panels. Here's the passenger one completed.
And yes, that is my reciever hitch in a tube sock. It keeps it from clanking around in there and getting rust on everything. It isn't a huge storage compartment but it is the smaller door and I learned a few tricks that I used on the other door.
Because I didn't use the factory holes, the original panel will pop back in place. I also saved the fiberglass parts I cut out should I ever need to reattach them in the future.
The drivers side:
Basic construction was the same with a few changes to get more storage.
1st I tapered the storage box and gained 1" in depth at top because of the curve in the door
2nd I cut the bottom out of it and stuck some plastic storage bins in there for little stuff. Because of that I had to put the bins in and their cover after the panel was in the door
And complete. The red bins are under the hinged bottom and there are 3 of them
The things I learned:
The rivets hold ok but I snuck a few screws in also so the panel doesn't pop off when you slam the door
Carpet has a direction, that's why the drivers side door looks funny, it's upside down. I may change it later if it bothers me too much.
Please ask any and all questions, hope it gives someone and idea or inspiration.
Last edited by Stewart_H; 12-24-2013 at 11:08 PM.
#3
I like it Bro. You set the bar for me to see if I can, 1-get more storage room in the doors, or 2-make it look nicer. I'm not having much faith in being able to do both.
I'm off to keep working on house projects to get more husband brownie points so I will be able to work on the Ex without getting yelled at.
I'm off to keep working on house projects to get more husband brownie points so I will be able to work on the Ex without getting yelled at.
#4
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Really like this idea, we can always use more storage in the EX. Bugs the wife that I like to always keep some tools handy, plus during the winter I like to have extra cold weather gear, gloves etc. handy when we go hot air ballooning. Might have to choose this over the subwoofers... damn tough choice.
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mazdab2600
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
04-18-2009 08:11 PM