Well guys it was 40 below heading up to Fort Mcmurray yesterday morning. The 6.7 was running great but the heat on my side was poor and onthe pass side was hot. Played with the control but can't get good heat on the dr side. Warr is over. Any thoughts. Or time for a heater module
Thanks Don

 

what happens if you turn off dual mode and just use single-zone climate control?

The last time I ever took apart a dual-zone climate control unit was when I was removing the entire heater box/evaporator core out of my 1998 BMW. There were three hoses that went in to the heater box (instead of the regular two) in the firewall. One for driver's side, one for passenger's side, one for return. Usually, it's one in and one out. I'm not sure how our trucks work, but I have to assume it's similar, so it's possible that hot coolant isn't circulating through one of the lines that feeds the driver's side.

But, to narrow down if it's a physical problem versus a control unit problem, put the climate control in single mode and see if you get good heat out of both side floor vents, which is where most of the heat is directed.

 

Surprised the warranty is up - there is a 3 year warranty on the whole truck - they have not been available for 3 yrs have they?

 

Definitely not 3 years, but with several people already reporting over 100,000 miles on a 2011, I bet his miles are up!

 

Nope, but many have over 36,000 miles.

 

General warranty is 60,000km for a vehicle purchased in Canada (which is like 37,282 miles) and since Ft. Mac was mentioned I could very easily believe the high km.

Ummm as for the DATC problem I'm not sure 'cause I don't have that feature, it's still cold even when you override the thermostatic control and set to 'HI' on both sides? Temperature blend door not jammed or anything? Have to determine if it's a electronic issue or a mechanical issue...

 

I have a 2011 as well with dual zone, and i had this hhappen to me about a month after i bought it. Except mine happened in the reverse with the a/c on. the passenger side would blow cold and the driver side was stuck on hot. I found out the problem. What happened was according to my dealer, the Blend box that shifts with manual over ride, became jammed due to the box swelling from the heat, and then once it cooled down it shrunk and got stuck in its final posstion and the motor would move the door. (just like Trent suggested)
Took it to the dealer and they had to pull the unit, i was told that they've had a couple 11's come back for that same issue.
I know they had to take apart the entire dash assembly incliding my center consel cause to get to it though.

 

Any for sure answer on this? I am having the exact same problem.

 

anyone???

 

2011s have an issue with the blend door... I newer one was made for 2012 and up... There is a TSB out on it.

I fixed my 2011 with a Forscan App, ran a diagnostic check and it fixed the HVAC as it moves everything around. Mine was so bad no heat or AC would come out of any of the vents.

 

The dealership already replaced the blend door actuator then later found out that was not the problem, still charged me $280. now they say it will be $1550 to replace something else, so now I'm trying to figure out exactly what is wrong and hopefully do it myself.

 

Would an TSB be under a warranty still? I was looking at that Forscan app, is it pretty easy to use? You just need to get the adaptor, correct? I'm still fighting on taking this to a dealership, as I am pretty confident in my skills but I'd rather know exactly what the problem is before I tear into this beast.

 

TSB's are not an extension of the warranty.


A recall is.


TSB does however give a tech the direction to look at for a problem that maybe common as of late.

 

ok, found the receipt. The actuator they replaced did not fix the problem. Anyone have any other ideas rather than spend $1550 and that not be the correct fix either?

 

Go ahead and delete this thread, it's not about big tires, LED bars, or navigation so nobody knows what's going on.