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91 F-250 351w cam install difficulty

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  #16  
Old 01-19-2012, 05:36 PM
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So I used that chart and it seems like I have 3.07's so thats probably why its such a dog. Cause the motor was rebuilt not to long ago maybe 10000k or 15000k
 
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:13 PM
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Don't use that chart... look on the door tag and post up the axle code.
 
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:04 PM
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The chart is just a reference. Not the Bible
 
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:39 AM
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if this engine has never been apart this is a 6 hour teardown, minumum, i had mine apart in 3 (fresh and clean) and reaasembled in 4 , book time is 15 hours . i agree with the others, pull it, refresh, better heads, new bearings andpumps (water, oil ) cam and lifters. headers. then look into your gears. if you have doubts about the engine in its current state pull it and go thru it . my 96 with 192k had NO wear on the cylinder walls and rings , repalced the cam, main and rod bearings , and went back together .
 
  #20  
Old 01-20-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jk89cat
if this engine has never been apart this is a 6 hour teardown, minumum, i had mine apart in 3 (fresh and clean) and reaasembled in 4 , book time is 15 hours . i agree with the others, pull it, refresh, better heads, new bearings andpumps (water, oil ) cam and lifters. headers. then look into your gears. if you have doubts about the engine in its current state pull it and go thru it . my 96 with 192k had NO wear on the cylinder walls and rings , repalced the cam, main and rod bearings , and went back together .
I dont think it takes that long, took me about an hour to pull my 8.2's apart completely.
 
  #21  
Old 01-20-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fosgate forever
I dont think it takes that long, took me about an hour to pull my 8.2's apart completely.

let me simply ask this , have you done it on a 5.0 or 5.8 in a truck or a lifted truck at that?
 
  #22  
Old 01-20-2012, 12:56 PM
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You never mentioned it being in a truck. I was referring to the engine being on a stand. However, yes i can have the heads off in about an hour, so figure 2 hours to get everything else out of the way.
 
  #23  
Old 01-20-2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by popupJunky
So I used that chart and it seems like I have 3.07's so thats probably why its such a dog. Cause the motor was rebuilt not to long ago maybe 10000k or 15000k
also look on the front or rear pumpkin for a little metal tag. if its still there will show what axle ratio you have.
 
  #24  
Old 01-20-2012, 05:23 PM
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Neither of the axles have tags. The axle code I found in the door is C9
 
  #25  
Old 01-20-2012, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by popupJunky
The axle code I found in the door is C9
3.55 LS is what you have
 
  #26  
Old 01-20-2012, 08:04 PM
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I'd go with 4.56 if you were to do a gear change. It will do better if you were to do a lot of high way driving. it'll do great towing and pulling off the line. May get better city mileage, But you'll take a hit on the highway mpgs.
 
  #27  
Old 01-20-2012, 08:36 PM
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im just finishing up a cam swap. i pulled the motor.

new cam to me means new cam bearings and new lifters and new rocker springs, and either new lift rods or rocker shims. new valve stem seals
new cam bearings? means i tear down the block, hot tank, hone the cyl, new rings new main and rod bearings, new headgaskets, intake gaskets, new main seals, new oil pump, new water pump (depending on age, i reused mine but it only has 2000 miles on it), new timing chain... ect. i think im in around $500 for probably less (i didnt really take count), im putting on headers too, but im not including the price of that or exhuast (i bought my headers off craigslist for $100 and will do the exhuast myself)

do a leak down check on the heads to make sure that you dont have to do any head work

i almost did a complete rebuild... but i reused my pistons and rods

you have a 99% chance of breaking a few exhuast manifold bolts and maybe an intake bolt or two... unless you are the man at pulling broken bolts take it in to a shop to have them pulled... it you break a easyout/bolt out off inside the head along with the broken bolt they will charge you more...

with 35" tires you want either 4.56 or 4.88 my jeep(w/ built 318) has 37s and i run 4.56s on it (i geared to 4.56 when i had 35")
4.56 on 35" tires will give you around the same feel as 3.55
 
  #28  
Old 01-21-2012, 05:50 PM
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I guess I'll re gear before I go and replace the cam. Hopefully it will make the truck a little more usable. Cause right now I dont think I could even tow a small trailer
 
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