Bad Gauge Maybe?

 

Its a new aftermarket gauge.

 

The gauge could be erroneous (although I doubt it if you also have clacking lifters).

The pickup screen/filter could be blocked with sludge & crap, made worse by the additive loosening stuff up.

The engine could be preparing to spin a bearing.

The engine could be the victim of a no maintenance having been performed over its life, a well-taken-care-of engine generally doesn't do this.

I would want to verify what the gauge is telling me, but clacking lifters are a pretty good verification.

I'd then probably remove a valve cover and look underneath & inside... lots of sludge & crap built up means the POs didn't take care of it, that same crap exists everywhere else in the engine, too.

Start it up with the cover removed, see what kind of oil flow to the top end you have.

 

I took the hose loose off the back of the oil pressure gauge and started the truck no oil air nothing came out it. So its probably the pump or screen I guess. Already had the valve covers off there is not any sludge. But didn't start it with them off. Maybe oil is to thick for the weak pump

 

I really doubt that - unless you're in the frozen tundra of the north pole.

The Owner's Manual says you can run 20W50 in temperatures ranging 20-90°F.

Read this:

Troubleshoot Oil Pump Problems

 

i dont know about these newer engines but on my 80 351w i tried running 20/50w oil and it pumped my lifters up and held them there so my valves were hanging open. easiest is just to pull the engine and check out where the problem is and since you have it out i would put the new bearings and oil pump in

 

either oil pump or main bearings. either way not hard to do... might even be able to do it with the motor in the truck if you try hard enough.

4x4 will be a PITA not to sure on 2x4

oil pump and screen where $20ea from various parts stores advanced for the pump and schucks/oreily for the pickup tube and screen IIRC.

i bought new main bearings online (ebay) in a kit WITH connecting rod bearings for $65 shipped.

be easiest to pull the motor though. but you may be able to get all the weight off the suspension and pull the pan

good time for a new oil pan gasket. front and rear main seals and check your crank for wear around the main seals you might need to install repair sleeves.

either way you can check the oil pump for clearance/serviceability via the measurements in the Chilton manual

 

ok going to pull the motor . is there any tricks to pulling it without any problems . then going to buy a premium longblock and quit messing with it . the truck is to close to perfect to not put a new motor in it . any help is appreciated thanks

 

Do you have an automatic or a manual transmission?

 

Manual. 5-speed

 

If your going with a "new motor" which ever way you planned to go in the 250 I'd be tempted to go with a 460 instead of the 351

 

^^ good point, especially since the 351 and 460 get about the same fuel economy, but the 351 has half the power.


Only downside to that, is hes gonna need another transmission as that one will not bolt up to the 460, and new motor mounts etc.


Not really worth it if he doesn't tow anything heavy.

 

If I had the option to go bigger I would. Could probably sell existing tranny and buy a used one for the big block for not too much of a difference. Why build a 351 when ya can build a 460 lol

 

Well , this is going to be my go to town truck. I already have a 91' f-350 diesel with a 11ft flatbed that I work with. But I do understand your point. Thanks