How do I plug the smog ports from the air tube in the head
#1
How do I plug the smog ports from the air tube in the head
Hello all,
I've got a 1996 F150 with the 4.9L six, and the air/thermactor tube that goes into the head is making a loud noise, and I want to get rid of it. I'm in Arkansas, so no emissions testing, and the cat was removed by the previous owner. I was wondering what size bolts I need to plug the ports in the head. Will straight thread bolts work, or do I need taper threaded fittings? Oh, and if anyone has done this before, please chime in on how you did it, and how it worked out. Some pictures would be great.
Thank you very much in advance.
I've got a 1996 F150 with the 4.9L six, and the air/thermactor tube that goes into the head is making a loud noise, and I want to get rid of it. I'm in Arkansas, so no emissions testing, and the cat was removed by the previous owner. I was wondering what size bolts I need to plug the ports in the head. Will straight thread bolts work, or do I need taper threaded fittings? Oh, and if anyone has done this before, please chime in on how you did it, and how it worked out. Some pictures would be great.
Thank you very much in advance.
#2
I have the same truck and engine. I have emissions testing here, so not doing this for another 9 years, but this is what I would do.
1. Find fittings in brass or steel that are the same thread if possible. Haven't looked, so not sure if you could find them at the local hardware store.
2. Remove the assembly and cut the smaller tubes off at the main tube. Then crimp and fold the tubes over and then weld or braise them shut. Then screw them back in the head.
Since I have replaced my tube already, a few tips.....
You really want to use a line wrench for this job. The fittings are thin and will flex when loosening. If you use a line wrench, it helps combat that problem as well as rounding off the fittings. I sprayed copious amounts of wd40 on the fittings before removing and let them set over night. They came out without a problem.
If you are going with option 2 and you destroy a fitting, they are available as a set from pciinc.com at a reasonable price. I got the tube and all fittings for about $100. I think the fittings as a set are about $40.
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
1. Find fittings in brass or steel that are the same thread if possible. Haven't looked, so not sure if you could find them at the local hardware store.
2. Remove the assembly and cut the smaller tubes off at the main tube. Then crimp and fold the tubes over and then weld or braise them shut. Then screw them back in the head.
Since I have replaced my tube already, a few tips.....
You really want to use a line wrench for this job. The fittings are thin and will flex when loosening. If you use a line wrench, it helps combat that problem as well as rounding off the fittings. I sprayed copious amounts of wd40 on the fittings before removing and let them set over night. They came out without a problem.
If you are going with option 2 and you destroy a fitting, they are available as a set from pciinc.com at a reasonable price. I got the tube and all fittings for about $100. I think the fittings as a set are about $40.
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
#3
Hello good people anyone know where i can find a smog tube for 1995 f250 4.9 i can be reached at chaserock606@gmail.com or 215 457-4377
#4
#5
2. Remove the assembly and cut the smaller tubes off at the main tube. Then crimp and fold the tubes over and then weld or braise them shut. Then screw them back in the head.
This is what I did, weld them shut, it worked great. I ground the weld flat and they look fine. Brazing/sweating would work as well, maybe even JB weld or some high temp goop of choice.
This is what I did, weld them shut, it worked great. I ground the weld flat and they look fine. Brazing/sweating would work as well, maybe even JB weld or some high temp goop of choice.
#6
Soak the fittings with " liquid wrench". Engineering studies have proved that this product works better than all the others.
Alternate is 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid.
Remove the tube fittings and manifold.
I used 3/8"-20 x 1/2" long steel black oxide set screws with allen sockets with the high temperature permatex thread sealer.
Alternate is 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid.
Remove the tube fittings and manifold.
I used 3/8"-20 x 1/2" long steel black oxide set screws with allen sockets with the high temperature permatex thread sealer.
#7
Thankyou for the feed back on my post
Hello good people i'm still working on this 95 f250 i thought i had a choice
with smog air tube finding tube or closing ports but friend wants me keep on lookin for tube .So if anyone knows where i can get this flipping tube i still can use the info. Thanks .
with smog air tube finding tube or closing ports but friend wants me keep on lookin for tube .So if anyone knows where i can get this flipping tube i still can use the info. Thanks .
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Hello good folks , My question does anyone have a clear diagram of vaccum hoses all from evap on fender to valve cover . This 1995 f250 4.9 will soon be on road again . I want download pics , videos to the forum can some help with that too . Thank's again for all the replies
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#11
I realize this is almost a year old but I did a search and saw this...
On my 66' 300 the threads were 1/2" 20. I found cap plugs in that size pretty easily. It was also really easy to remove the tubes except 2 of the ends stayed in the head. They were easy to remove but I sure struggled getting the cap plugs started until I noticed they were still in there.
On my 66' 300 the threads were 1/2" 20. I found cap plugs in that size pretty easily. It was also really easy to remove the tubes except 2 of the ends stayed in the head. They were easy to remove but I sure struggled getting the cap plugs started until I noticed they were still in there.
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Tim Hodgson
1978 - 1996 Big Bronco
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12-31-2013 08:43 PM