Joe,
You have provided me some great information and I must plead some ignorance as I do not know the A Pillar from the C Pillar. I assume that those are the main braces on either side of the windshield. Please correct me if I am mistaken and also, please describe the kick plates for me if you do not mind and once again, excuse my ignorance. Is there a resource that I can find that would show me where the tubes exit? Are the tubes made of plastic and are just clamped onto the nipple at the corners of the moon roof? I am thinking that by kick plates, you mean the wheel wells but I am unsure. Please advise and let me know if there is a source showing a diagram or blow-up . If you do not know of a available diagram, maybe you could just sketch it out as best as possible and scan it and email to me at mhollas8908@windstream.net if it is not to much trouble. Thanks again.

 

The kick panals are under the dash on the driver and passanger side pretty much where you feet are when you are riding in the truck , they go down to the carpet and up to the dash and out to the front doors , and the c-pillar is the far back one by the back window

 

Oh and the a -pillar is the ones by the windsheild..

 

Yea.. what Bigpipes said, The drains are attached to nipples in each corner of the sunroof, if you pour some water in the tray you'll see the water draining out and that's where the tubes lead to. Hopefully just the front tubes a blocked because they are much easier to clear and test, the best way to test the rear tubes is to park up hill and pour some water in the tray and see if the water immediately fully drains. I'm not sure where to get you a diagram but I'm guessing someone has done this on Utube. You can try researching brands like ASC, Inalfa or Hollandia and maybe something will come up.

 

Oh and the tubes are made of a soft plastic that is easily bent but has a decent thickness that I don't believe would be damaged with weed wacker wire, I've used even a coat hanger to clear the tube but only in the front where I knew it really doesn't curve much.

 

yeah, i'm a little bitter...been driving around in limp mode for months because my "drain water separator" indicator comes on every damn day and ford can't seem to get it fixed. it didn't used to be a big deal but a new flash done last year makes it go into limp mode if the alert is not cleared by the next ignition cycle. so the little things like a drip from the sun roof is sometimes just the proverbial piece of strall

 

This day and age with all this computer crap on these trucks you would think they could figure it out pretty easily. I can remember how the computer would get ride of paper to... yea.

 

I had this problem with my '05 king ranch crew cab. The moon roof assembly is like a bathe tub with a drain hose from each of the corners. Any water that leaks past the glass seal is caught in a drain channel and runs to the low corner. I removed the glass panel for better access and cleaned the seal, and easy procedure. I was able to blow out my front drains from the top with an air hose and long tube. The front drains run down the A pillar and exit just above the lower front door hinge (open the door to see). You may be able to blow air up the hose. The rear lines drain down the B pillar and exit under the rocker (hard to find the exit point). I poured a small amount of water in the channel and watched it run. you can change the level of the truck to make it run to each corner as needed.
I found that my drains were clogged by spider nests and leaf debris.

 

Hobie

Thanks for the reply. You gave a good description of the drain exits for the front but the back is still a bit of a mystery. You mention that you removed the glass. How difficult of a process is that? Was it worth the effort and made access to the drains that much easier? I would appreciate any other advice as I wait for some dry weather to tackle my situation. Thanks again.
Mark

QUOTE=Hobie16;11301198]I had this problem with my '05 king ranch crew cab. The moon roof assembly is like a bathe tub with a drain hose from each of the corners. Any water that leaks past the glass seal is caught in a drain channel and runs to the low corner. I removed the glass panel for better access and cleaned the seal, and easy procedure. I was able to blow out my front drains from the top with an air hose and long tube. The front drains run down the A pillar and exit just above the lower front door hinge (open the door to see). You may be able to blow air up the hose. The rear lines drain down the B pillar and exit under the rocker (hard to find the exit point). I poured a small amount of water in the channel and watched it run. you can change the level of the truck to make it run to each corner as needed.
I found that my drains were clogged by spider nests and leaf debris.[/QUOTE]

 

I removed the glass simply because the first time I had water come in over the passenger front seat and I thought the seal was damaged. It is awkward to work on the drain holes with the glass in place especially the rear, but not impossible. There are only four torx screws, one at each corner bracket the brackets are slotted for adjustment. When you replace the glass just put the screws in tight enough to still allow movement then push the glass up or down to so it is level all around and even with the seal, your fingers are the best gauge of this. You will probably have to make the adjustment several time to get it right, than tighten the screws.

My rear drains have never clogged. So when I put water in the channel I saw it run and puddle under the truck and didn't look any farther for the exits.

I do have a shop manual DVD and it cautions against using too much force to clear the nipple and hose as you may dislodge the hose; the only way to reattach is to drop the head liner. I used a piece of wire to gently probe the opening of the nipple and loosen debris before trying to blow it out with my air nozzle.

Hope this answers some of your question.

 

I have used old coaxial cable to gently push thru any debris found in the lines and it seemed to work very well plus since its rubber coated you don't have to worry about possible metal to metal contact marring the inside.

 

That is a good idea.. thanks




QUOTE=billybop90;11301852]I have used old coaxial cable to gently push thru any debris found in the lines and it seemed to work very well plus since its rubber coated you don't have to worry about possible metal to metal contact marring the inside.[/QUOTE]

 

My 2001 had water leaking in the rt rear corner of the moon roof. It was a plugged drain line. Used air compressor and small hose to clear. Poured a little bit of water into channel and let it sit to soften up anything prior to blowing.
You can also go to the opposite corner and pour water into the channel, thne look under truck for drainage reference. This will help locating the other sides drain hole.

 

I have a 2006 f250 that started to drip water from the map light today. Today I checked all of this about 1 hour after 1 saw the water come in.I have checked the moon roof drains and they are draining fine took all the water I poured into the channel on both sides. The bracket that mounts the trim for the map light has 1 spot that was wet. I can't find where it came from. I ran the hose over sections at a time and found no leak. The tab with the arrow was a little wet on the top side of the tab. The cab light right above the map light was missing the nut. I ran a lot of water over that light and 0 water came in. I pulled the light off and the gasket under the light was as dry as a stew bone no water coming from that light! I was able to check the other 4 light with a mirror while running water over them and 0 water as well. This is the 1st time water has come into the cab. Today i checked all of this about 1 hour after 1 saw the water come in.

 

Check the rear third brake light/cargo light gasket.