Ever been to Balestrand in Norway? Beee-yooo-teee-ful place.

 

Nope haven't been there either, not much of a traveler myself But when we do go on a holiday we tend to go to warm, sunny places like Spain, Greece or Turkey. Partly becasue it's often the same price or cheaper to stay for like a week on a nice beach resort in Turkey than a long weekend i Stockholm...and with all the snow and cold weather we've got here, the sunny places is a bit more attractive

 

Ok so we got the new module now, the price was ~ $60, it looks exactly like the old one BUT it wasn't a original Motorcraft-module, it's a "Standard parts" or something like that. Anyways...it came with a little brochure that says that you need to remove the distributor in order to replace the module, do we really need to do that? And isn't that giving us some other troubles with like timing the ignition or something like that?

 

I only turned my dizzy so I could get the tool to work, after takin off the dizzy cap

 

You probably need the special tool to remove the module from the distributor even if you pull the distributor. If I remember right the size is 7/32 inch. I haven't found a regular socket with a long enough skinny nose to work. If you have the special tool and have to turn the distributor, be sure to carefully mark the distributor body in relation to the intake manifold before you loosen the bolt to turn the distributor. If you have to pull the distributor, I would first line up the timing marks on the engine and note whether the rotor is pointing at the number one terminal an the distributor cap or half a turn away. Also make a mark on top of the distributor body exactly where the rotor is pointing. Again also mark the distributor body in relation to the intake manifold. That should get you close enough to restart the engine, or you can check the timing with a timing light just by cranking the engine with the starter. Either way you will have to retime the engine after starting it, with a timing light.

 

Its a 5.5 mm tool, at least thats what it says on mine

 

Now we have replaced the module, we marked the position of the distributor and just rotated it a little. I tried both 7/32" and 5,5mm tool, both fit ok but I thought the 7/32" was a little tighter. Truck started right up, and ran really smooth and nice...for about 3 minutes, then it stopped all by itself and now were back to the beginning...no spark, no fuelpumps etc...
On the bottom of the distributor, under the rotor, you find a little thingy with maybe a magnet(?) that senses when the engine is turning...what is it called? Pickup? Trigger? Hall-sensor? Something else?
Could this one be our problem?

We're now letting the truck sit ouside in the cold -7C (~20 F) until tomorrow to see if it will start up again...

 

Did this to my 89 toy an worked for the last 2 yrs. Maybe the pip sensor in dizzy ?

 

You don't have *either*? Meaning:

1) Turn the key on, you can hear the fuel pumps prime the system;

2) Engine runs for a bit, then stops;

3) Turn the key off (then wait several seconds) & on, and you cannot hear any more fuel pump priming? Combined with no spark?

I am not sure how Ford did this in 1989 and you will need to investigate to see if it applies to you, but at least some earlier years had the Hot Fuel Handling System. <-- Google that term

This basically wires the fuel pumps (and maybe also the ignition, not sure) through a switch on the engine which removes power if low/no oil pressure is detected. This is to keep from sending raw gasoline to a fire in the event of an accident.

That switch can be bypassed with a jumper wire for testing purposes.

I am generally not a proponent of throwing parts at a problem in an attempt to fix it... do some diagnosis & testing to verify a component is suspect or bad.

The distributor pickup can go bad, but that won't affect the fuel pumps. The pickup instructs the module to fire the coil at the right times, and those pickups can be tested with an ohm meter.




If you want to include pictures in your posts here, upload your pix to a hosting service (photobucket, imageshack, whatever) and use the IMG code they provide to source your images in your posts.

This FTE forum should help:
User Gallery & Picture Display Help - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums




It occurs to me....

You have an F350 with a 460 in Sweden...

Man, your friends must think you have some pretty big ***** to do that....

Or, a lot of money, given the price of petrol (and everything else (although I remember Copenhagen & Oslo being worse)) over there.

Or, they think you're stupid.

 

Ok, if you have an 89 with a 460, as far as I know it should have a remote TFI, but maybe the export models didn't. Fuel pumps on 89, should be 3, one in each tank and one on the frame rail. They are all fed by the fuel pump relay and inertia switch I would suspect a bad ECM power relay, it will kill everything but the actual ignition coil feed.

 

Exactly!



I've looked at this quickly, what I found was a connection with three wires, on Google I can only find one photo of a jumpered switch, and it has only got two wires...anyone knows how to jumper my 3-wire-model?

Well...nowadays everybody's talking about how bad old cars is for the environment, and how the oil is running out...and that we need to have like solarpowered electric cars...
So it's like "now or never" if you ever want to drive around in a fullsize bigblock Ford truck!

Here's a pic of from last summer!

 

This is a US-model, it was shipped over here in 2008...

Yes there are three fuelpumps, and all of them works fine when "the system is good"...
Now "when the system is bad" you can only hear the EEC-relay click when you turn ignition on, there's no power to the Fuel Pump-relay!
I've checked and jumpered the Inertia switch but can't find anything wrong with it...

 

This is a photo of the thingy on the bottom of our distributor, the pick up sensor, right?
Can anyone tell me how to Ohm-measure it correctly? I mean, which wires should I hook the meter up to? Have read that it should be somewhere around 1000 Ohm +/- 300 Ohm, is that correct?

 

Just because the relay clicks doesn't mean it's good. I believe in 89 the relay is powered through a fusible link. Unfortunately my internet connection here is slow, so even if I find the diagram I may not be able to upload it. The fuel pumps should run while cranking. The module on your distributor, what does it plug into? Your distributor is set up for a remote TFI module. you can check for power at the red wire on any of your injectors, with the key on there should be battery voltage, if it goes away when the truck stalls then either the ECM power relay or it's feed are bad.

 

Ok try these for help. The two relays should be on the back side of your air filter mount along with the EEC test plug.

EEC power relay, yellow wire identified as 37 should have battery voltage at all times. White with light blue stripe wire identified as 20 should have battery voltage whenever the ignition is in start or run. Red wire identified as 361 should have power whenever the EEC relay is energized. This powers the entire EEC system.

Fuel pump relay, yellow wire, identified as 37 should have power at all times. Red wire identified as 361 should have power whenever the EEC relay is energized. Fuel pump relay should "pulse" when key is turned on, running the pumps to charge the fuel rail. It is operated by the EEC grounding the tan with light green wire identified as 97. If you have power at the red wire, 361, you can ground this at the test plug to run the pumps.

I have included the power to the relays and part of the EEC system so you can see that circuit 361 powers just about everything. I also included the fuel pump circuits for your information.