Forget about cheaper.. I know personally I just plain will not replace my rear window motor unless I can find something bigger. I think it's ridiculous they used such a small motor to push such a big window.

Then again, 22 years later and mine is still working

 

This is true, i would like something bigger and stronger but i need the money for that and this years tax return will most likely be going to something more crucial than a window motor. Mine works it just doesn't have the power to push it up all the way, there is several factors for this though first being the window regulator track is pretty much got this sticky rubber crap on it which broke the plastic slider wheel thing.. I need a way to pull the whole assembly out and clean it to death then properly lube it with light grease instead of rubber cement and dirt. Next is my fiberglass top is miss-align due to lack of bolt and clip hardware... and so on so forth.

 

I got a stroke of luck! mom is going to the US for some days so she will bring me the motors (i bought both sides at once), no international shipping fees for me! yay!. I got them from Amazon with free shipping for $68.94. Sweet deal... i just want to have them here to install them already.

 

Thats good. I live in the us so i don't pay international fees but i'm sure they can get pricey.

 

I just did the swap yesterday, the supplied self tapping screws and some care helped me line up everything just fine, the result?... AMAZING! the windows roll faster than in new cars, i had to pay shipping because of some complications so it costed me aprox. $122 getting both motors and having them shipped to my house, sweet deal anyway, i couldn't be happier with the results after having a stuck window on my side for several months (imagine driving around in tropical climate with no A/C, getting the ticket in any automated parking lot, etc...), thanks ErrorS, YOU DA MAN!.

If you guys need replacement window motors, search no further.

 

I can't help but smile (and giggle like a school girl) everytime i push the switch and watch the window going at it.

 

Hahaha thats great to hear, i hope it is like that for the back window too I might have to do that eventually. Though i did fix mine a little to make it roll itself up just not very fast, my wires going to the dash switch were effed up so i fixed them and it has steady power now.

 

My tailgate window motor went out today, from the sound the pegs broke off of the back of the gear in the motor gearcase. Using the access panel, I was able to muscle the window up high enough to get to all the motor mounting screws. When I got the motor out, I put a pair of pliers on the output gear, and could turn it, so the pegs are broken.

Saw A-Z had the Dorman 742-251 (Dorman says same motor used for passenger door on this year). Made in Korea. Went and picked one up, I remember Error S saying that one of the holes didn't line up on a Dorman motor. I brought the old motor with me, but didn't bring a ruler. Should have. When I got home, I measured the center hole to both outer holes as 2 1/4" on the old. The Dorman motor has the middle hole further away by almost 3/16". It's not gonna work.

I was surprised that Dorman had that problem. I've never had trouble with their stuff before. Went to dormanproducts.com, and looked at both motors (driver door, and passenger door/tailgate). Both say in their application notes, that the new motor center hole spacing may be too wide for the vehicle. So they say just take a file and file the center hole in the regulator into a slot, and all is fine. NO WAY! I'm not taking that whole monster regulator out because they saved on part numbers!

So should I just put it in using only the two outer screws that line up, and forget the middle one? - No, with the load of that big window and two regulator arms and gears, I'm afraid after a while the plastic gear case would crack and fail under the load with just two screws. Not a good place for a failure.

I wondered if I could salvage it by drilling the motor case for the center hole - No, it would be only about a half a diameter from the existing hole, and the thread-forming screw wouldn't bite, so won't do that.

Maybe I could drill a hole in the tailgate panel and stick a thin round file through there and file away at the mounting plate to make the center hole into a slot - No, the location is in the curvature of the inside handle pocket, AND it is double-walled there. No go, won't try it and make a mess.

So tomorrow the Dorman motor goes back to A-Z. I may end up with a Motorcraft rebuilt from somewhere else. When Siemens made motors for Ford products, didn't have these problems.

If worst comes to worst, I can rebuild the gearcase on the old motor, but I'd rather not, the commutator will probably go next.

Dorman let me down.

 

This saddens me to hear... Do you think this same problem would occur on my 78? I sure hope not, mine isn't dead yet but i don't have faith that it will last much longer.

 

I know these motors are fine for the doors but I wouldn't trust them for the tail-gate now that you mention it.. still havent put my passenger side motor in, im lazy

 

What would you recommend for the tailgate for future reference?

Also your too lazy to do the motor but you can rip apart the top end of your motor?

 

I get distracted. I've had a stumble for a while that has been driving me crazy, lifter noise, etc. Was a nice day, my day off.. you know.. felt it was more critical

anyways, I have no clue. My motor started getting weak yesterday (swear, when it rains it pours) so I think I'm going to have to face this soon myself. Based on what I know, I guess I wouldn't buy the Dorman for the window motor. Torky2 really, really made a good point..

 

Ya, i guess when it comes time for that, i can buy whatever Napas computer system says.

 

Zippy Do Da I like the Dorman window motor. Thanks ErrorS.
I used your link and got it in two days and ten bucks less than a local big box store.

I recently replaced the dowels and learned wheel bearing grease makes it scream and slow. Picture shows nut drivers are in the holes drilled on my '94. You will need one 5/16. A third hole, really a notch is to the left of the left one.

Signed up as a member of the lost screw club even after putting grease on the nut driver. I would suggest a hardware store stop before you do this project and get several extra screws...Hex head sheet metal #12 X 1".

Evidently someone was bored in Korea. The zip tie was connected and run all the way down. I used one from my toolbox to secure the wires to the side like the original.

The Dorman holes lined up perfectly.

 

Boy i would hate to do this... It is bad enough trying to diagnose my passenger side window crank system. I can't fit my fat head in the holes in the inside metal to see all the moving parts...