I have started another thread on the Gears/Trans/T-case Forum for just the issue you raised about over driving my engine "too much"... I will be using it to drive across the country towing an inclosed "toy hauler" trailer or a 19ft camp trailer, so it won't be massively heavy stuff. The VAST majority of its driving will be on the highway/freeway, so yes i would like it to be able to get up and go if needed.
There is a very good chance that i will also be putting a overdrive into it from Gear Vendor. Which will be at 22% drop in final drive ratio. I am thinking that i will hold off on the ring and pinion gear changes until i test drive all of this with the gears that are in in and see how it goes. I can always pull it back into the shop afterwards for another round.
I may end up going with the 35s in the end. I am not sure how it will all look with the new frame and its stance, i have however, seen several of these trucks with a body lift(such as 2") and larger tires on them and they just look SEXY...
The engine will be making ballpark 400 LBS torque during daily driving situations of under 3000 RPM, up to 500-550 at 5000+RPM. It is going to have lots of grunt to get up and going. I will admit that I am not too experienced as to what the HP and TQ of this means in real world use. I have read TONS of online forums and truck builds though. My only experience with an FE is my father's 69 high boy with a run of the mill 390, which had headers, a 4 speed and 4.10 gears.
As for the body and the tires fitting with the body. Yes, the newer axles are wider by several inches. The body lift should help the situation some i believe? I would be OK with the tires protruding a bit from the body. Running fender flares is also an option if needed to keep flying debris to a minimum (i like the idea of that anyway).
You are probably right about the rear end not being a "Spicer". I focused mainly on the front end and figuring out what i had there. I knew from the beginning that i was going to want an updated drive train for this truck. The bearings in the rear end from the 64 had completely destroyed themselves and i had had several of my older friends tell me that they had had problems with the bearings (flat, roller style vs. newer tapered bearings) coming apart and the wheels/axles falling off under extreme hauling conditions.
I will probably try and sell the 64 frame and drive train to someone on the cheap who wants to do a more original restoration or conversion.
The gear vendors OD, 445 are great ideas but think without a better cylinder head your TQ and HP numbers are going to be short. Just not going to happen with those heads unless they get some SERIOUS work done that would probably cost more than a good pair of heads to start with.
1966 F250 Deluxe Camper Special "RANGER" Special Paint
1965 F250 now gone bye bye . . Sad Face
1966 F100 powered by a 482" Dual Quad Side Oiler
1966 F100 Plain Jane AZ Grandpa Truck 352 3spd
1966 F250 Plain Jane Red/Red Long Bed 3.5L EcoBoost
1966 F600 Never Titled OR Registered Only 5388 Miles
I posted this in the "Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case" section and figured i would up date here too. Here is a link to the "A New Brownie Thread". Its a good read, long... but a very good read.
"So... rolling with the punches... spent my spring break digging through piles of parts at local junk yards and i bought two Spicer overdrives that i found in a junk yard near Boise ID. The yard is called B&T Auto Salvage, it is just outside of Caldwell ID. The owner/operator was very knowledgeable and reasonable with prices. I would recommend them to anyone. He is not there to try and price gouge and has lots of "older" rigs that have been spared the crusher. They are a Spicer 7041, a 6231A and a 9xxx (which was FREAKING HUGE). I bought the 7041 and the 6231A for $275 a piece. The 7041 has ratios of 2.31 first, 1.21 second, direct, and .83 OD. The 6231A has ratios of 1.24 first, direct, .86. I believe i will use the 7041 in my build and i am going to give the 6231A to my dad for his 69 F250. I also got the 8 bolt pattern flanges to connect my Clark transmission to the Spicer directly. Is connecting it directly advisable or should i use a short connecting shaft with slips between the two? If i could fix the two together with bracing would that be ok or does there need to be a flexible joint? I also got a shifting linkage off of a Spicer 9xxx series to use with 7041 and two old fashion break handles to use with the 6231A on my dad's. All the shifters/break handles only cost $35.
As of now, the plan is to try and fit the 7041 between my Clark285 tranny and my BW1345 transfer case/Gear Vendor unit. Because i am designing this as i go on my 94 F350, long bed frame i have plenty of room to fool around with.
My main question is should i continue with plan and try and fit it between the tranny and transfer case or put it as a replacement carrier bearing behind the transfer case?
And... Also, is there any problem using the 7041 and a GV to get an "doubled" overdrive?"
You are 100% correct on that. Throught all the reading I have done I came to the same conclusion that the heads would not do what I wanted them to do. I have decided to go with new Edelbrocks. The are a lot less work, brand new, and just a little more expensive haveing all the work done to my stock heads.
You are also correct about not using a gas engine.... However, the 445 is just just really cool. I have done tons of research and have just settled on that as what i want. I have a lot of theoretical knowledge about the FEs and I am wanting to go that way... Realistically in the future, if i do this again, I would probably go diesel because it's a cheaper and easier means to the same ends...
The transmissions i took to a local tranny guy that i was given lots of good reviews from people that i trust. he is going to crack them open and take a look then get back to me on what needs to be done to make them bullet proof.
Engine i took out over Christmas break to measure some things to be sure of what i had do to the fact that nearly anything could be inside of the block. Good news, nothing noticeably wrong and and now everything is all wrapped up dry and safe on the shelves of the shop waiting for summer.
I found a guy through craigslist in Billings MT who crushed a 60's F600 and could not bring himself to crush the front clip and hood which were still in good condition so he pulled them off before sending it all for scrap. And lucky me, he saw my add and emailed me. He is a really nice guy and agreed to set them aside till this summer when i will be going through that part of the country.
I also got a Flareside bed that was really nice in a scrap yard here in Nampa ID. Plan on replacing my Styleside with this one because it will match the front F600 fenders better. I believe i will have to stretch and/or widen bed. This guy widened his Chevy's bed to match his front fenders
I will probably put a fully metal floor into it and to replace the original wood. Make it solid seal it up and then forget about it! Anyone have any experience doing this? Would it be better to get corrugated bed materials from other matching scrap beds i can find in a yard or should i go with flat steel?
At this point during the summer i will be needing to get rid of the extra parts i will have. The styleside bed, the front fenders and the frame from my pickup have got to go during the summer. My parents don't want all these parts and pieces that i have laying around on their property anymore. If no one wants them i will scrap them all.
I have been busy now that summer is in full swing. Very Very busy...
I retrieved the F600 fenders which turned out to be F500 fenders but there is no difference other than the badges. With a day consisting of a 1030 mile round trip, missing a tornado by minuets, and 70mph head winds it was well worth the $200 i paid for it. I got the entire front clip and it is absolutely rust free. woop woop.
The transmission guy i took my auxiliarys to told me that the 7041 had standing water in and appeared to have been that way for a while. we came to the conclusion that that it was not worth the work required to get it operational again. since talking to him last he is moving forward with the 6xxx.
I have pulled the front clip and cab off of my F100. With as few bolts as possible i reassembled the front clip with the parts from the F500. I had to cut holes and repair some sheet metal rips in the new radiator support to allow for the grill guard from my F100 to work with it. I think it looks nice...
The cab i sat down on the bed of my little Toyota and began to cut the rusty floor boards out. they are now gone and the rest of the cab is gutted. i only have a few of the ***** left. I am at a loss as how to get them out Ignition, wipers, and i believe the heater.
I found a local junk yard that has a scrapped 62 F600 with a complete cab and front clip. Sadly the fenders are crunched pretty good but still fixable for someone who really wanted to work with them. I will put pics up and will hold them till the end of the summer if anyone out there wants them for the cost of shipping. All i could pull off of this truck and some other random stuff from the yard for $200 The floor in the 62 is almost perfect as far as the floor boards and the fire wall. I spent half a day torching out the floors and supports out of it, i will be using these to replace mine.
The same yard had a Ford 7000 truck with a factory hood scoop on it. I pulled it and all the air intake parts under it. I plan on using it on my truck as a cold air intake (CAI). I am keeping my eyes open for another. Two forward facing scoops i think would look very cool.
The 62 F600 also comes with 6 6.75x22.5 wheels. Four of the tires are still good and are 10R22.5s. As of now i have been talking to a local company about re-centering the wheels to match my 8x6.5 bolt patern and offset and backspacing. They have all the high tech tools to cut and weld these up. Afterwards i will have them balanced and either 8R or 9R tires put on them. But this is something for the end of the build that i will work on.
i am hopefully on my last day of modifying the body mounts on my 94 frame today. the entire lengh of the cab mounts both were 93" so i got lucky there, the difference lies in the spacing between the mounts. I ended up cutting the rubber off of the mount towers on the 94 frame. I decided not to change the position of front cab mounts, rather only weld up 1.5" spacers to rise them where they needed to be. they only needed to be moved in .5" on each side to work. The rear cab mounts needed to get moved forward 6" and out 3" on each side and lowered aprox. an inch. I fabricated new mount towers for them.
I do have a question so far as the radiator support mounts. There is a spring on the bolt that allow the frame to flex and the radiator support to lift off of the frame. I need to move the mount towers forward 6" and either the mounts from the outside of the frame to the inside to keep the original radiator support bolts and position within the support or i could move them to the outside of the frame. this would require me to hard weld a threaded stud to the bottom of the radiator support to match the frame's tower on the outside of the frame. Can i replace that "spring loaded mounting bolt" with a solid stud and rubber pad to still allow for flex? i will post pics to show what i am talking about later.
The gas tanks in my frame are a "high pressure" dual tank set up and i am trying to trouble shoot how to get them to work with my 390 engine and mechanical fuel pump. If any of you guys have any good ideas as how to do this it would be greatly appreciated?
I also got my two sandblasters up and running. One is a wheel around "pressure pot" style which i tested for the first time last night and its going to be great! the other is a stationary cabinet blaster. with all the repairs and original price on Craigslist i have $240 into them. I will get pics up later.
Got some wheels made up... used the old 22.5s that I pulled out of the junkyard and took them to a company called American Wheel Specialist. They are located in Pasco WA. They did GREAT work on my project and would recommend them to anyone interested in re-centering a set of wheels.
As you can see i got it close with my guess work for the proper backspacing... if i remember right i have to push the centers 1/2" to the inside of the wheel to help with clearance, they look great with the large F500 fenders above them. I have old rubber on them for now... just wait till a good opportunity provides itself to get new ones.
I chopped the complete floor out of an old service truck that was set to be crushed, and then proceeded to make patch panels. The entire drivers side and most of the lower pillar was eaten away. I replaced the pillar with 1/8th inch plate, and then spliced in the floor sections from the scrap yard.
The entire cab mount on the drivers side was rusted and falling through, i replaced it with the the junk yard items that i pulled and on the passenger side I cut out the rusted areas where the front cab mounts run through the floor and fabricated up replacements. You can see in the picture that there was a ton of old dirt and debris in the support.
It doesn't look that bad in these pictures but once I started digging and sandblasting the rust was too much to try and weld in patch panels.
I also took the battery box hole and lid from the driver side of my donor truck and spliced it into the floor on the passenger side of mine. I also have all the under truck, frame mounted hardware to attach. no real plans as of now for the extra hole/lid but at the very least it could be a cool storage compartment with an old military ammo box placed into it.
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