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Old 01-11-2012, 11:52 PM
shok47 shok47 is offline
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bleeding brakes ranger.

Read some homemade bleeding ideas; buying extra cap and hooking up 10PSI compressor and open the calipers until clear fluid is coming out. Though, before reading this, I bought a vacuum bleeding kit.

I got brand new lines off from the master cylinder and the one connecting the front left and right. So I hooked up the bleeder and have been bleeding only 1 caliper, driver side, and I keep getting bubbles. Figured it might be the hoses were not tight enough, so I zipped tied it, but still got bubbles. Used a smaller hose, that I had to really force on there, still got bubbles. The vacuum gauge stays constant as well.

I have drained half the master cylinder and same results. The fluid is sparkling clear. I dont get it.

I will be attempting the pressurized technique later one. I have an airbrush compressor that I will hookup to avoid the hand pump pressure.
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:53 AM
pawpaw pawpaw is online now
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The vacuum may be pulling air past the bleeder screw threads & causing you to think you have air in the lines. Do you now have a firm, or soft pedal???? If the pedal is soft/spongy, you have air in the lines, if it's firm, move on to the next wheel.

The Rangers brake system is split, both front wheels feed off the master cyl front reservoir & the rear wheels off the master cyl back reservoir. Begin with the wheel most distant from the master cyl reservoir & work closer, so we usually bleed RR, LR, RF, LF in that order.

To do a one man brake bleed, try using a small bottle with a little clean fluid in the bottom, & a length of sized clear plastic tubing inserted into the bottle & its end covered by the fluid, the other tubing end snuggly connected to the bleeder screw & place the bottle above the caliper or wheel cyl.
Then open the bleed screw just enough to see fluid moving in the clear tubing, then you can slowly pump the brake pedal to do a one man bleed of that wheel & not get air into the system, as long as the tubing end in the catch bottle is covered with fluid, so you can do this without master cyl pressure, or system vacuum applied.

When bleeding the front disc brakes, don't press the pedal more than 4-5 times, as the front disc will expel more fluid per pump, so they'll empty the master cyl reservoir faster than the rear wheel cyls & cause you to let air into the system, so keep the master cyl fluid level topped up.

If you've let the fluid get low & have pulled air into the system, you may have to use vacuum to expell it, or if the air has gotten into the ABS motor, you may end up at the Dealer, or a Brake shop that has a scantool that'll activate the ABS valving while pulling a vacuum on the system to purge the ABS system.

Let us know how it goes.
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