FYI, unless you were using a 2" long ratchet or are really weak, that is WAY too much and damaged the threads. Save your pennies for a Timesert kit.

As others mentioned, I usually use anti-seize on ANY threads going into aluminum.

However, it is rumored that the nickel plating (bright silver) on the newer Motorcraft plugs will not seize nearly as traumatically as the old black bodied plugs. So I installed those dry. I'll let you know how that worked out in a few years....

 

Guess I have to agree. The idea of applying maximal force to steel plugs in an aluminum head really makes my skin crawl.......

 

I'd be highly interested to read the follow-up about this when you next change your plugs. Seeing the condition of the plug threads and any corrosion or rust along with how easily they spun out would be most helpful---photos too if that's not asking too much?

This has also concerned me as well. Dissimilar metals where one is considerably softer demand some sort of thread locker or lubrication/sealer compound in order to prevent damage to the softer material. Going all the way back to a late 70's Honda CVCC engine it was easy to strip a plug in those heads. Even though it was a beater car (one of the most reliable ever!) I took care with changing plugs.

Anyone who'd like to read more about the Ford heads should check out the blownsparkplugs.com site There is a lengthy article concerning torque, anti-seize and a few other eye-opening facts too---well worth the read.