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1960 Ford F100 Power Brakes And Power Steering Question
Hi all Im new here just purchased a 1960 Ford F100 Y-block 292.I have a couple of questions.Ive been looking through all the posts here and there are a couple of things I would like to do to my truck.
1. Power steering yes I read the post about toyota conversion kits but none say what pump they used or what brackets they used either not to mention the puley on the engine as well.I do plan on lowering the truck as well so I believe the power assist will not work..What pumps do you use and what bracket would I need to mount pump to the motor as well as what pulley to use? Also will I loose my horn on my steering wheel with system? like to keep some what original
2. Power brakes fronts only.Will I be limited in what rims I can use front and rear? I was hoping for 17 inch
More question later Im sure as I get more involved...LOL
If you want to do the Toyota swap, a popular power steering pump seams to be a saginaw pump from a 60s-70s GM. You really have a choice to use any pump you like as ling as it has the right type of pulley and you can find the right fittings. There is a truck built by CPP that has a drop axle with the Toyota power steering box.
ford-y-block.com has an add-on pulley and power steering bracket.
Mid Fifties offers a horn kit. Otherwise you will loose your horn unless you put in a newer column. You could also put a horn button on the dash in one of the empty positions next to the other switches and *****.
Regarding the power brakes, it's a good upgrade. You don't say if you've got an automatic or manual trans. If still manual, you may have to contend with clearance issues between brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder and possibly clearance issues with the length of the new brake master cylinder + booster + bracket interfering with engine or parts attached to engine...not sure about that with Y block...it gets tight with the 223.
Oh, a disc brake conversion kit...shoulda figured that when u said front brakes only...the wheel diameter has to be big enough to clear the caliper...17 should be plenty big enough.
Here is something you may not have thought of. You said you want: 1. power brakes. 2. power steering. 3. lowered truck. 4. 17" or larger wheels.
I propose to you the 2003-2007 Crown Victoria Independent Front Suspension swap. It is the EASIEST suspension swap known to man right now. The Crown Victoria's (CV's) have the same frame width as all Ford truck until '96 or so. 34". This swap can be done for between $400-$600 depending on how much you pay for the front suspension. There are a total of 4 bolts that hold the CV cross member in. 4 that hold in the trailing arms and 4 that hold in the sway bar. It is truly a bolt in suspension swap that can be done in a weekend. Why would you do this swap? Because you get 1. 12" disc power brakes with dual piston calipers. 2. power steering rack and pinion. 3. about a 5" drop of ride height. 4. it requires 16" or larger wheels. Not to mention you get the ride of a Crown Victoria. I have no experience with suspension and my dad and I had it in, in one week. If you have experience it is a 2-3 day project.
Just suggesting. You will get everything you are wanting, PLUS a car-like ride. There are no negatives to this swap.
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------------------------------------------------------ http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/im...ine=1324186537
1958 Ford F-100. 351 W .030 over and Speed Pro flat top pistons, Comp Cams 224/226, World Windsor Sr. heads, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 750 carb, Roller rocker arms, Proform one-wire distributor, MSD 6-AL ignition.
I've been looking for the complete kit to convert my '59 F100 to power steering, but can't seem to find it. Can anyone tell me where I can find one? I've heard you can get the Toyota box (w/ adapter plate and re-drill one hole in the frame); the pitman, drag link and drag arm from the '56; get a solid tie rod and bolt it together?.....
DEEPLY appreciate guidance on this. Thanks
Scott
I looked into it for my '58, I was thinking of using a 73-79 4X4 steering box and running the drag link forward to it. Then just use a later column and extension shaft to reach the box.
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Bill Vose (Old School Hot Rodder) 1986 F350 crew cab DRW 460ci EFI, E4OD, PMGR starter, 160 amp 3G alternator, 12X3 rear brakes, Traction lock 3.55
1995 Lincoln Continental (project car), 1994 Taurus LX (daily driver) http://www.oldschoolhotrodder.com
"growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional"
I used an original Y-block power steering pump, it powers the toyota box just fine. I got it on ebay as well as the bracket and the bolt that screws into the water pump.
I got my front disc brake conversion from ECI, they have some nice kits.
My booster came off a 1973 F100, The bracket cleared the clutch master cylinder. I used an elbow out of the clutch master to make it a little smaller.
I used an original Y-block power steering pump, it powers the toyota box just fine. I got it on ebay as well as the bracket and the bolt that screws into the water pump.
I got my front disc brake conversion from ECI, they have some nice kits.
My booster came off a 1973 F100, The bracket cleared the clutch master cylinder. I used an elbow out of the clutch master to make it a little smaller.
Lots of pics in my gallery.
I also used the ECI kit and am using the stock Ford 15 in rims.
Yeah you can weld some metal square tubing to the bottom of the frame to keep the stock height. I've seen someone use 4" square tubing. They just welded that to the bottom of the frame and then installed the CV IFS like all the other build threads you've seen. This raises the front of the truck away from the IFS which keeps the stock ride height. Simple yet effective solution.
__________________
------------------------------------------------------ http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/im...ine=1324186537
1958 Ford F-100. 351 W .030 over and Speed Pro flat top pistons, Comp Cams 224/226, World Windsor Sr. heads, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 750 carb, Roller rocker arms, Proform one-wire distributor, MSD 6-AL ignition.
Here is something you may not have thought of. You said you want: 1. power brakes. 2. power steering. 3. lowered truck. 4. 17" or larger wheels.
I propose to you the 2003-2007 Crown Victoria Independent Front Suspension swap. It is the EASIEST suspension swap known to man right now. The Crown Victoria's (CV's) have the same frame width as all Ford truck until '96 or so. 34". This swap can be done for between $400-$600 depending on how much you pay for the front suspension. There are a total of 4 bolts that hold the CV cross member in. 4 that hold in the trailing arms and 4 that hold in the sway bar. It is truly a bolt in suspension swap that can be done in a weekend. Why would you do this swap? Because you get 1. 12" disc power brakes with dual piston calipers. 2. power steering rack and pinion. 3. about a 5" drop of ride height. 4. it requires 16" or larger wheels. Not to mention you get the ride of a Crown Victoria. I have no experience with suspension and my dad and I had it in, in one week. If you have experience it is a 2-3 day project.
Just suggesting. You will get everything you are wanting, PLUS a car-like ride. There are no negatives to this swap.
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