Well right now im trying to get the battery fully charged so I can test the volts on the inertia switch, oil pressure switch, and fuel pump relay so I can find the problem. I can't test them right if the battery isnt fully charged. Also I have to drop the tanks out to check the pumps them selfs

 

Ok so its been nothing but snow, rain, and flooding here in oregon so its hard to work on the truck lately. So I checked the battery and it only had 9.5v so I charged it n it has 11.8v but still won't start. I replaced the starter and checked the starter solenoid and it was good. It did start when I put a friends battery in it, but if my battery is still "good" why won't it start?

 

Also I could use a detailed step by step on taking out the gas tanks. What to do, what to look for or check. anything anyone can help me with would be really appreciated, thanks.

 

Post #5 in this thread may help.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tank-leak.html
I have a mechanical pump, not the in-tank pumps many have, but the basics are the same.

 

If you can't charge your battery higher than 11.8 volts then either your charger is bad or your battery is. And, since it started with your friend's battery in there I'd bet on the battery being bad.

Oh, wait. There's another possibility: Something in your truck is pulling enough current to drain your battery and to keep the charger from being able to fully charge it. Try pulling the ground cable to charge the battery. If you can then get it charged to 12.8 volts you have something pulling quite a bit of current.

I haven't gone back through this thread to see if we've been over this before, but: Put your DVM in the 10 amp mode if it has one. That will probably require moving the red probe to another connection, marked 10 A. Then put the red/positive probe on the negative cable and the black/negative one on the negative post of the battery. The meter will tell you if you have a drain, but anything that scale will show means something is wrong.

 

I was searching for '85 fuel line info and found this thread, so wanted to respond to this.

Not all anti-seize are electrically conductive, but as long as you use one like the Bostik Never-Seez that is it's fine to use on things like battery connections, though personally I only use it ground connections at the frame and such, and on spark plug threads.
For at the battery and all other electrical connections like light bulbs, disconnects, etc., I use dielectric grease because it's not electrically conductive.

One place you don't want to use anything though is newer O2 sensor connections because the connection needs air to get correct readings.

 

Tom - Why would you use something that isn't electrically conductive on battery terminals?

 

The purpose of dielectric grease is to keep air away from the connection so they don't corrode. The contact pressure presses the grease away from the contact so you still have a good connection, but the grease fills any spaces were air would get in.

For the actual battery terminals I can't really think of any reason why you can't use something conductive. I pretty much only use Never Seeze and dielectric grease. Never Seez is pretty messy and a pain to get off, so that's one reason I don't use it on battery terminals. That, plus habit. I just use dielectric grease on electrical connections. With the exception of ground connections at the body and frame, where I use Never Seez.

 

GoJo gets anti-seize off, but not much else. And, that is one reason I use it on battery terminals. Just one, of many.