Replacing damaged FICM connectors...A HOW-TO with pics
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Thanks for the reps.
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Hi, your steps were great and pretty accurate. I just replaced the 3 connectors while still in the hood, took me about 3 hours to get through it. One thing i did differently is the following picture.
Before removing the old connector, i put in the strip of wood of the right thickness between the two rows of wires, put in two nails on each side and sandwiched it all with two tie-wraps. This kept all the wires straight and aligned ready to put in the new connector with no worries of mixing up the wires. I think it made it easier especially with doing it under the hood.
Before removing the old connector, i put in the strip of wood of the right thickness between the two rows of wires, put in two nails on each side and sandwiched it all with two tie-wraps. This kept all the wires straight and aligned ready to put in the new connector with no worries of mixing up the wires. I think it made it easier especially with doing it under the hood.
#26
This thread was a big help.
I have been having intermittent starting problems with my 2005 f350 6.0 after changing the IPR (which required removing the FICM). It quickly came to my attention that the previous owner / owners had broken the pins off the FICM connectors, so when there was a no start, I'd have to reseat them and then she'd start up.
I ordered the 18, 19, and 20 connectors and performed the swap under the hood. PIA! I swapped one wire at a time.
I can't stress enough how important this statement is:
" Once the pins are transferred to the new connector, only push them in far enough so the one way barbed retainer can be placed over them. We only want the tips of the pins to be just above the barbs."
If you engage the barbs too soon during reassembly your screwed, it will be impossible to line up the rest of the connector if not done right. Just push the pins in the new connector just enough to allow the tip of the pins to barely pass through new barbed portion and the white locking plate. Then assemble the entire connector, then push the pins in fully, then lock.
Thanks for the write up!
I have been having intermittent starting problems with my 2005 f350 6.0 after changing the IPR (which required removing the FICM). It quickly came to my attention that the previous owner / owners had broken the pins off the FICM connectors, so when there was a no start, I'd have to reseat them and then she'd start up.
I ordered the 18, 19, and 20 connectors and performed the swap under the hood. PIA! I swapped one wire at a time.
I can't stress enough how important this statement is:
" Once the pins are transferred to the new connector, only push them in far enough so the one way barbed retainer can be placed over them. We only want the tips of the pins to be just above the barbs."
If you engage the barbs too soon during reassembly your screwed, it will be impossible to line up the rest of the connector if not done right. Just push the pins in the new connector just enough to allow the tip of the pins to barely pass through new barbed portion and the white locking plate. Then assemble the entire connector, then push the pins in fully, then lock.
Thanks for the write up!
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