Your heads looked like aluminum to me lol, but I just woke up and don't remember that well. And 1 ton we run Rotella T 15W40 in everything we have, even my moms Mazda 666 (626) 4 cylinder, and my dads mazda 4 cylinder pos pickup. They love the stuff. At Walmart it's pretty decently priced. And that's got to be one damn annoying rear main seal leak if it leaks that much.

 

Yeah it's annoying, it gets flung around off the flywheel all over the bellhousing then runs down and drips out f the inspection hold. Also i think they are cast iron but painted silver like my steering box. And my old cast intake that i had. I think the PO wanted to make them look newer so he painted them. This is the unpainted ports. I don't know if aluminum will end up looking this way though.

 

Idk if it's available on your series engine anymore or not. But I have installed many two piece rear main seals without pulling the engine and trans apart.

I am pretty sick still today so I don't feel up to walking you through the steps to do it. But I am thinking ya could Google it easy enough.

 

I don't really see how that would work unless you go through the oil pan and can work around the crankshaft and trans input shaft. That way it might not be too hard but i don't know if i can get the pan off and out of the way without pushing the engine up. I haven't really looked into it for a while so i don't remember. I think mine is a 2 piece though.

 

It will work Dill. I have done several. With the rope seal and two piece plastic ones.

Google it Bud. I bet there is a video out there on it.

 

I stand corrected, Aluminum won't rust, you have cast iron heads lol. Yours flow better than mine do though! mine are crap. For the two piece rear main seal that requires the oil pan being dropped and the rear main cap being removed and you can change it from there. Trans won't need dropped for a two piece seal. Unless it's in the way of getting the pan out.

 

Actually i did google it and after reading some forums, FSB had one where a guy mentioned that the 78's mostly had the 2 piece ones and that you had to loosen the crank bearing caps to fish out the seal, then carefully put the new one in and re-torque the cap bolts. Seems easy enough to me, and i could knock out the pan gasket as well. I just have to look into the best way to remove the pan without too much work. Since i will be doing it mostly in the driveway i think, i want it to be as easy as possible. I could probably do it in my garage but i doubt my step dad would enjoy it being in there again for an extended time. Doing the tranny was bad enough.

 

Haha yeah all that ^^^. I think i prefer cast heads over aluminum so they don't warp. But i wouldn't mind them cleaned, ported, and polished. New valves, seats, rods, and rocker assmb. would be great too. Hell a whole head rebuilding would be nice too It's all about money and time though. Since they aren't having issues i don't have a reason to fix them yet.

 

Well I can sell you my crap cast iron Windsor smog heads for $1200, it appears they were shimmed, had new guides put in them. Valve job. Doesn't smoke on start up or use any oil. You can put those on your engine, apparently they will bolt right on. Hell I'll even paint them for you.

LOL

 

Ehh you know, i don't know if windsor heads will fit. It's a cleavland block technically and heads too. BUT a windsor crank would fit since thats what they came with. I've never looked into windsor heads though.

All in all i think these are some good plans for spring/summer of next year. I would prefer not to do it now cause the cold would cause issues with my hands not working very well. One thing i can do that i have forgotten about, is confirming the screwed up gear ratios. Maybe the agenda for tomorrow if it doesn't rain?? Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do.

 

Haha, no the Windsor heads won't fit, they will bolt on but that's where it ends. Those Clevor engines are Windsors with Cleveland heads on them. They require a special intake lol.

 

Ah, that figures.. Oh well, all i can say is that your heads are definitely cleaner than mine. Mine are dirty as all hell.

 

Mine were pretty scuzzy before I cleaned them. So was the whole engine, everything you touched almost you got greasy. Not anymore.

 

That's how mine is now. Everything is grease coated. Keeps away the rust though! The front axle is so messy that i don't like touching it much. The trans WAS dirty but the shop cleaned it when they rebuilt it. They, however, did not clean the t-case... It was a mess.

 

In the spring I'm going to pressure wash my engine bay and the whole underside of the truck, I want to paint my frame since in spots it has some very light surface rust. There are places around here that will steam clean engine bays and probably the underside of cars around here, not sure where though. But boy do those come out clean as can be when they do that.