Ok well i publicly appologise to you here... BUT.... here is where i had a problem...
I was not addressing the OP problem. I was addressing another post that said something to the order of "it doesnt matter how dead the batt is" Well that post was inacurate because it does matter, Then you get on and spred even more crazy bad info with your post while quoting my post... So thats how we ended up here. Again, all input is, and should be welcomed, but when you grab somebodys post then contradict it when you dont know what your talking about, partly because you didnt pay attention to "the context" well you get what you get.
If you wish to continue this discution further, PM me. No need to muddy up the boards here.
But again, I apologise to you Sir, for any hurt feelings,
I stand by my post that there is still a complete circuit with the battery removed as it is in parallel with the alt. I am not recommending removal of a battery while a vehicle is running as it provides some voltage stabilization functions and such and was just making that original statement for illustrative purposes to try to explain that a battery's charge is not really needed when a vehicle is underway. Your theory and experience may be different and that is just fine and I respect your opinion.
No need for any PMs. I certainly appreciate your feedback and insight but I just wish it would be presented in a nicer form. I think we are all just trying to point the OP in the right direction and have the best intentions. No ill will here. Have a nice night!
Okay guys , sorry it took so long for an update. The truck is fixed and I pick it up this morning. It seems that some sort of critter decided to chew it's way through the wiring harness! I just want to thank everyone one for all the help. Also it's nice to know there are still people out there willing to take the time out to try to help people they don't even know .
I have to set mouse traps occasionally out here when the cats aren't doing their jobs. Mostly when the seasons change and the things are looking for new homes. Also, try not to leave any food or wrappers in your vehicles it attracts them too.
I told some one else there was a critter in thier car eating wireing... I beleieve it was the Allstate racoon... I was sooooooooo close..... just missed the right thread..... UGGGG! Glad the truck is well, Thanks for the update.... Case closed
Is your alternator having 1 thick cable and a plug with 2 small wires?
There is not much to it as the regulator is build-in into the alternator. If one of the small wire is feeding 12V with ignition on, the good alternator has to supply the power via the thick cable. The second small wire goes to the control light.
Welcome to the forum.
I am having the same issue. My alternator has a 3 wire plug . Do you know if this wire is from the ignition switch or threw the battery light. When my truck broke the other day it just ran out of power and died . For the past 2 years every light in truck had a pulse to that would get brighter and go away with added rpm but no other symptoms i just assumed the truck is old and the alternator was failing. I found the main wire out of the alternator where it connected at the other end at the starter solonid it was very corroeded and the was a smaller line that was made in to the same connector that had a burned fuse like that ford says is no longer availiable i by passed it temporary to see if the system would start charging . So i start the truck the batter light went out but its still not charging. Looking at your post you sound like you know what you are doing .
I have been having problem with the batt. losing volts at idle it will drain unless i rev the engine it dont take much. i have changed the alt. and batt. and having the same problems. also i have a rough idle stalls at idle at stop lights if i use the cruze control over 50 mph the rpm race at 30 it lets off the gas and revws back to speed and drops again make a rough ridey and pointer im lost ran fine when i parked it last summer its used for the winter its a 03 ford explore limited 4.7
Did you ever get your charging issue solved
Please let me know as it just happen me today.
I replaced the alternator and batteries and it starts but then radio goes off and cluster blanks
Originally Posted by bluzzer
alternator was tested as only putting out 12volts so we changed it. New one didnt work so changed it again. This tested as good. Trucks starts and runs for a few minutes then the gauges stop working and the lights flicker and the batteries die. I dont know what to think about it. Cant afford to go to the dealers so have got to try and find the problem myself.
I own a 2001 Ford Excursion and like many on this forum struggled with the alternator not charging the battery. I spent hours and hours troubleshooting and reading forum posts. I swapped out a new alternator when it wasn't charging and the 2nd "new" alternator wasn't charging either. Here's what finally solved my problem...
The main power wire that runs from the positive battery terminal to the 3 wire connector that plugs into the alternator isn't providing 12 volts to the alternator (required to active it). The strange thing was that if I disconnected the connector and measured voltage when the engine was off, I had 12V. If I connected the connector and measured voltage while the engine was *running*, it would drop down to ~ 1V. I'm not sure why. It took me a while to figure this out though. Anyway, I wound up running my own wire from the positive battery terminal to the connector (soldered / spliced the wires) and capped off / taped the original power wire. The other 2 wires on the connector are hooked up in their original configuration.
That did it! I now have ~ 14.6V when running the car across the battery terminals.
I thought I'd follow up with this post in case someone can learn from my experience.
Just to put my to friggin cents in.... I have seen bad batteries make vehicles with good alternators shut off.
Now thats just a fact. ***DISCLAIMER*** I am not saying this is the guys problem, but it is possible.
You can tell this is the problem because after you jump it, when you disconect the jumpers... the vechicle dies immediately. This happens cause the system needs a loop, and the batt turns into an open...
I'll go 1-step farther. I had a Tahoe with a bad battery with an internal issue. I could start it AND put it in gear. Get a foot or two and it would die. Then it wouldn't start without a jump. Removed the jumper cables - put it in gear - got a couple of feet truck died.
Towed it across the street to a garage, found the battery had internal problem which ended up killing the alternator too. Had a DMM connected to the battery on a wheeled cart, showed 11-12volts, rolled it over a seem in the floor volts dropped to 0 for a few seconds, then back to 11-12 volts. Picked up 1 end and dropped it back to 0 volts again.. Truly weird.
Not sure if the "problem" was an open or a short though, didn't think to try to figure that part out.. Now, I do this stuff myself on my Excursion
Yes, I've reached the same conclusion (do my own work and troubleshooting). Unfortunately, I also bought a new battery after being told the old one tested bad. Once I discovered, the new alternator wasn't outputting voltage, I went back to the auto-store and "bought" my old battery back for the core charge ($10.00). That was a month ago and the "old" battery is still working good!
Glad to see others sharing information on these forums. Collectively, we can increase our knowledge and help each other out!