WAY OT!! Need construction/concrete expertise
#1
WAY OT!! Need construction/concrete expertise
I am a 1st time homeowner (10 months) and with all of my vehicles I have been playing with the idea of having my current driveway expanded, so I don't have to park in the street anymore.. It is currently 10'X36' and I am looking to extend it enough for 2 vehicles side by side. So I am basically going to expand it out to 20'X36'. I know that it needs to be 4" thick so it will handle having vehicles driven over it.
I have been quoted $ to pour the addition or $2250 to have the existing drive way busted up and then have the whole slab poured together. How do these pruces sound?
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!!!!
I have been quoted $ to pour the addition or $2250 to have the existing drive way busted up and then have the whole slab poured together. How do these pruces sound?
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!!!!
#2
10 x 36 x .35 = 126 divided by 27 = 4.66 c.y. of concrete. x your cost of concrete. Mine is $85.00 a yard. $396.00 for concrete. About $500.00 to form and pour it. I would form the slab and call the concrete plant and ask them for a number to someone that will come out and finish for you. Unless your exsiting drive is cracked and messed up, I see no need to replace it.
#3
You're missing the number for the first option, but the 2nd option sounds pretty reasonable. Last time I had any concrete work priced was several years ago and to tear out and pour back was $3.50/ sf. You're only tearing out half so that changes some things.
What else will the driveway be used for? Kids roller skating, playing basketball, etc? If it's just for parking vehicles, I'd just have them pour the additional slab and leave your existing alone. They should have a control joint or expansion joint figured between the two so you don't have to worry about it breaking apart at the joint.
What else will the driveway be used for? Kids roller skating, playing basketball, etc? If it's just for parking vehicles, I'd just have them pour the additional slab and leave your existing alone. They should have a control joint or expansion joint figured between the two so you don't have to worry about it breaking apart at the joint.
#4
#5
If I had to move equipment and haul off the old concrete and demo, it would be higher than your price. F350 is correct about the control joint. I have started placing fisqeen under drives. It helps to keep the grass from coming through. I would also be sure they cut joints, Atleast every 12'.
#6
If you dont have to touch a thing then that price does not really sound bad at all to me, but I am not a concrete guy and would probably rather pay someone to do it. Depends on how much you have to spend. If I did not have the cash then I would probably attempt it myself but I have access to equip. as well.
#7
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#9
Just my two pennies worth, but if your existing drive is in pretty bad shape, you'll wish you had replaced it when you see the new surface next to it! Also, make sure it at the very least 4'' thick, and the ground underneath is properly compacted. After 12 years my drive has developed a crack (not in the expansion joint) and I found out that the ground beneath that area had settled almost 6''. I think the weight of my truck made the crack happen, as thats my side. And speaking of driveways, Why is it we park on driveways, but drive on parkways? Bill
#10
Well in canada 32MPA (strong, driveway/exterior grade) concrete is about $200 a yard delivered after taxes and crap.
A yard does an area about 9x9 4" deep so you'd be looking at roughly 4.5 yards
Figure another $200 a yard to install it properly.
If your old driveway is in poor condition, rip it out and replace the whole thing. If it's decent, after a year or two the new stuff will match it close enough.
Take pictures of everything before they start! If they run over your existing driveway with the mixer chances are real good they'll damage it. If you think your pickup is heavy, a full mixer is 8x heavier!
A yard does an area about 9x9 4" deep so you'd be looking at roughly 4.5 yards
Figure another $200 a yard to install it properly.
If your old driveway is in poor condition, rip it out and replace the whole thing. If it's decent, after a year or two the new stuff will match it close enough.
Take pictures of everything before they start! If they run over your existing driveway with the mixer chances are real good they'll damage it. If you think your pickup is heavy, a full mixer is 8x heavier!
#11
Yah, what other have said, if the existing driveway is acceptable, then i dont see the need to replace it. For "shootoing" the new slab, got to remember the rebar for strength or go with 1in rock. Also, being a driveway, save your money on NOT getting a pumper, no need for it, the "shoots" off the mixer truck, will more than reach where you need it to be. get yourself a decent "finisher" that knows how to maneuver the shoots, and ur good to go....(drove mixer trucks).
In a nutshell, order the concrete yourself, do your "forming" or work with the finisher, for forming, and you'd be ready to pour...you go this route, make sure you got a decent wheelbarrow or a few barrels, for the mixer driver to "wash-out" in, and be heavy with plastics, on/around the wheel barrel..sorry for added info, a few beers down..lo,, but also, make sure you pour at around, but no more than a 5in slump, anything "wtter" it'll crack down the rode. Alot of formers/pumpers, like it wet, cuz its easy to work with...
In a nutshell, order the concrete yourself, do your "forming" or work with the finisher, for forming, and you'd be ready to pour...you go this route, make sure you got a decent wheelbarrow or a few barrels, for the mixer driver to "wash-out" in, and be heavy with plastics, on/around the wheel barrel..sorry for added info, a few beers down..lo,, but also, make sure you pour at around, but no more than a 5in slump, anything "wtter" it'll crack down the rode. Alot of formers/pumpers, like it wet, cuz its easy to work with...
#12
I don't recommend DIYing concrete. I drove a concrete mixer for 5 years and it's Totally worth the money paying someone to do it. DIY jobs always turn out like *** and it's a lot of work. If you pay someone else to do it and it looks bad, you can go after them.
I'm mister DIY and don't like paying anyone to do anything, I even build my own engines and rebuilt my garage, but concrete and ceramic tile are best left to the pros.
I'm mister DIY and don't like paying anyone to do anything, I even build my own engines and rebuilt my garage, but concrete and ceramic tile are best left to the pros.
#13
Last concrete job I had I hired a finisher who really knew his stuff.
He came out to the jobsite to look it over before agreeing to do the job, then decided he couldn't do all the finishing in the work time, so hired another finisher. He also had a great pump guy that arranged all the concrete delivery.
The finisher ended up making me look like a complete professional, but all I did was the soils prep, forming, and steel.
Customer was a good personal friend, and he still thinks I can do no wrong.
Hire a professional. Once the stuff sets up, it's there to look at for a long time, right or wrong!
The finisher on that job was FTE's SteveBricks. He's a third-generation mason, and worth every penny! See:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-positive.html
Pop
He came out to the jobsite to look it over before agreeing to do the job, then decided he couldn't do all the finishing in the work time, so hired another finisher. He also had a great pump guy that arranged all the concrete delivery.
The finisher ended up making me look like a complete professional, but all I did was the soils prep, forming, and steel.
Customer was a good personal friend, and he still thinks I can do no wrong.
Hire a professional. Once the stuff sets up, it's there to look at for a long time, right or wrong!
The finisher on that job was FTE's SteveBricks. He's a third-generation mason, and worth every penny! See:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-positive.html
Pop
#15
All previous posts are right on. Just consider that you are building a structure (concrete driveway) on the ground. The existing ground should be considered part of that structure, mainly the foundation of that structure. As stated in a previous post, that foundation may fail, settle etc. Get a quote to have a decent sub-base material placed under the new concrete. Up here in NY, we utilize a recycled concrete blend, say 2 to 4 inches in thickness. Have it graded and compacted. This will provide your new concrete with an extremely strong foundation that most likely will never fail. It should not be that expensive, and very much worth it. You could do this for yourself prior to your concrete contractor. Good luck. Chris