1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: DP Tuner

WAY OT!! Need construction/concrete expertise

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-05-2012, 07:37 PM
robs01f250's Avatar
robs01f250
robs01f250 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
WAY OT!! Need construction/concrete expertise

I am a 1st time homeowner (10 months) and with all of my vehicles I have been playing with the idea of having my current driveway expanded, so I don't have to park in the street anymore.. It is currently 10'X36' and I am looking to extend it enough for 2 vehicles side by side. So I am basically going to expand it out to 20'X36'. I know that it needs to be 4" thick so it will handle having vehicles driven over it.

I have been quoted $ to pour the addition or $2250 to have the existing drive way busted up and then have the whole slab poured together. How do these pruces sound?

Thanks in advance for the help!!!!!!!
 
  #2  
Old 01-05-2012, 07:56 PM
gatormccluskey's Avatar
gatormccluskey
gatormccluskey is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
10 x 36 x .35 = 126 divided by 27 = 4.66 c.y. of concrete. x your cost of concrete. Mine is $85.00 a yard. $396.00 for concrete. About $500.00 to form and pour it. I would form the slab and call the concrete plant and ask them for a number to someone that will come out and finish for you. Unless your exsiting drive is cracked and messed up, I see no need to replace it.
 
  #3  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:00 PM
F350-6's Avatar
F350-6
F350-6 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes on 20 Posts
You're missing the number for the first option, but the 2nd option sounds pretty reasonable. Last time I had any concrete work priced was several years ago and to tear out and pour back was $3.50/ sf. You're only tearing out half so that changes some things.

What else will the driveway be used for? Kids roller skating, playing basketball, etc? If it's just for parking vehicles, I'd just have them pour the additional slab and leave your existing alone. They should have a control joint or expansion joint figured between the two so you don't have to worry about it breaking apart at the joint.
 
  #4  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:03 PM
robs01f250's Avatar
robs01f250
robs01f250 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
The existing driveway is cracked and chipping up. So you are saying that the price I was quoted sounds high? I forgot to mention that we have a sidewalk in front of the house that we have to bust up and pour back within the specs of the city.
 
  #5  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:05 PM
gatormccluskey's Avatar
gatormccluskey
gatormccluskey is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If I had to move equipment and haul off the old concrete and demo, it would be higher than your price. F350 is correct about the control joint. I have started placing fisqeen under drives. It helps to keep the grass from coming through. I would also be sure they cut joints, Atleast every 12'.
 
  #6  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:34 PM
caverjoe's Avatar
caverjoe
caverjoe is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North Port, Florida
Posts: 1,224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you dont have to touch a thing then that price does not really sound bad at all to me, but I am not a concrete guy and would probably rather pay someone to do it. Depends on how much you have to spend. If I did not have the cash then I would probably attempt it myself but I have access to equip. as well.
 
  #7  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:38 PM
Deluxe06's Avatar
Deluxe06
Deluxe06 is offline
4000 rounds a min
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Albemarle NC
Posts: 2,223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just had my drive done 27 CY, They removed the gravel, formed, poured and finshed for 6g's. 4" thick and I think they used 3500 psi but I can't remember.
 
  #8  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:46 PM
FTrucker's Avatar
FTrucker
FTrucker is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Posts: 129
Received 6 Likes on 2 Posts
Decent price I think If the job is what you need it to be, be sure to know where else this guy has worked. Could be all for not down the road.
 
  #9  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:48 PM
meier63's Avatar
meier63
meier63 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Independence, Ky
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just my two pennies worth, but if your existing drive is in pretty bad shape, you'll wish you had replaced it when you see the new surface next to it! Also, make sure it at the very least 4'' thick, and the ground underneath is properly compacted. After 12 years my drive has developed a crack (not in the expansion joint) and I found out that the ground beneath that area had settled almost 6''. I think the weight of my truck made the crack happen, as thats my side. And speaking of driveways, Why is it we park on driveways, but drive on parkways? Bill
 
  #10  
Old 01-05-2012, 10:02 PM
Terrh's Avatar
Terrh
Terrh is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Well in canada 32MPA (strong, driveway/exterior grade) concrete is about $200 a yard delivered after taxes and crap.

A yard does an area about 9x9 4" deep so you'd be looking at roughly 4.5 yards

Figure another $200 a yard to install it properly.

If your old driveway is in poor condition, rip it out and replace the whole thing. If it's decent, after a year or two the new stuff will match it close enough.

Take pictures of everything before they start! If they run over your existing driveway with the mixer chances are real good they'll damage it. If you think your pickup is heavy, a full mixer is 8x heavier!
 
  #11  
Old 01-05-2012, 10:21 PM
timmyboy76's Avatar
timmyboy76
timmyboy76 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Received 48 Likes on 36 Posts
Yah, what other have said, if the existing driveway is acceptable, then i dont see the need to replace it. For "shootoing" the new slab, got to remember the rebar for strength or go with 1in rock. Also, being a driveway, save your money on NOT getting a pumper, no need for it, the "shoots" off the mixer truck, will more than reach where you need it to be. get yourself a decent "finisher" that knows how to maneuver the shoots, and ur good to go....(drove mixer trucks).

In a nutshell, order the concrete yourself, do your "forming" or work with the finisher, for forming, and you'd be ready to pour...you go this route, make sure you got a decent wheelbarrow or a few barrels, for the mixer driver to "wash-out" in, and be heavy with plastics, on/around the wheel barrel..sorry for added info, a few beers down..lo,, but also, make sure you pour at around, but no more than a 5in slump, anything "wtter" it'll crack down the rode. Alot of formers/pumpers, like it wet, cuz its easy to work with...
 
  #12  
Old 01-05-2012, 10:49 PM
Terrh's Avatar
Terrh
Terrh is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I don't recommend DIYing concrete. I drove a concrete mixer for 5 years and it's Totally worth the money paying someone to do it. DIY jobs always turn out like *** and it's a lot of work. If you pay someone else to do it and it looks bad, you can go after them.

I'm mister DIY and don't like paying anyone to do anything, I even build my own engines and rebuilt my garage, but concrete and ceramic tile are best left to the pros.
 
  #13  
Old 01-06-2012, 01:37 AM
SpringerPop's Avatar
SpringerPop
SpringerPop is offline
Hotshot

Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: La La Land
Posts: 17,986
Received 188 Likes on 112 Posts
Last concrete job I had I hired a finisher who really knew his stuff.

He came out to the jobsite to look it over before agreeing to do the job, then decided he couldn't do all the finishing in the work time, so hired another finisher. He also had a great pump guy that arranged all the concrete delivery.

The finisher ended up making me look like a complete professional, but all I did was the soils prep, forming, and steel.

Customer was a good personal friend, and he still thinks I can do no wrong.

Hire a professional. Once the stuff sets up, it's there to look at for a long time, right or wrong!

The finisher on that job was FTE's SteveBricks. He's a third-generation mason, and worth every penny! See:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-positive.html

Pop
 
  #14  
Old 01-06-2012, 04:47 AM
O(range)K(r)USH's Avatar
O(range)K(r)USH
O(range)K(r)USH is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
...if i had 3 or 4 illegals working for me, i could do it for half that price...
seriously though, the price seems fair...i'd charge a lot more...
 
  #15  
Old 01-06-2012, 06:53 AM
2003chromefatboy's Avatar
2003chromefatboy
2003chromefatboy is offline
Freshman User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
All previous posts are right on. Just consider that you are building a structure (concrete driveway) on the ground. The existing ground should be considered part of that structure, mainly the foundation of that structure. As stated in a previous post, that foundation may fail, settle etc. Get a quote to have a decent sub-base material placed under the new concrete. Up here in NY, we utilize a recycled concrete blend, say 2 to 4 inches in thickness. Have it graded and compacted. This will provide your new concrete with an extremely strong foundation that most likely will never fail. It should not be that expensive, and very much worth it. You could do this for yourself prior to your concrete contractor. Good luck. Chris
 


Quick Reply: WAY OT!! Need construction/concrete expertise



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:13 PM.