Hey all, I have a 1987 F150 4x2 with the EFI 4.9/4-speed manual with OD (Ford SROD) and what is most likely the original clutch in it. I know the clutch is soon to need replacement and it's getting it soon, but it's not slipping at all so I've been going with it. It's had this problem for the last year or so where you'll hit the clutch pedal sometimes and it'll stick about halfway down and you have to pull it up with your foot.

A few months back, my slave cylinder blew out (leaking everywhere, fluid came out about as fast as you could pour it in). I was dreading bleeding the system because I know how much of a nightmare it is (so much so that Ford sells the entire clutch hydraulic assembly filled/sealed/bled). Well, I got the cylinder installed and actually got it bled fairly easy...most the time the clutch feels ok, but it still has that stupid sticking pedal.

What would cause that? Is it because the clutch is so worn? Maybe the throwout bearing is hanging? The clutch master cylinder perhaps? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

This started to happen to me when the slave started leaking. If it is feeling similar to before, especially if you used a non-motorcraft part. Few other guys fixed the slave only to have it go out in 2~3 months. Did you replace the master or flush the line when you did the slave? And if this is an external slave, (I can't remember) did you grease up the fork and feel for any ridges or burrs on the bearings path? Also, does the pedal pop up when you give it a nudge, or do you have to lift it up all the way? On mine there's another spring/roller setup that acts on the pedal itself that might not be flipping over (happened on mine too), if you have the same system.
-Mike

 

my clutch pedal started to stick when my slave cylinder failed. is your slave inside your tranny bell housing? why didnt you replace the clutch when u did the slave? how long ago did the replace the slave, and what kind did you put in? some cheap slaves will fail very quickly.

 

It is an external slave. I will replace the clutch soon. And MPC, yes, it pops up fast when you nudge it. It was a cheap slave...I'm strongly thinking about buying the sealed/assembled system when I do the clutch. Anyone know how much they want for it? Seems like I remember it being around $170-200.

And no, I didn't flush the line or replace the master cylinder. I knew I should have but I was short on funds at the moment and we needed the truck (my dad was using it). I will look at that spring/roller setup Mike, thanks for suggesting it. The slave was done about 2 months ago, and it was a generic parts store brand...nothing special.

I really appreciate the input guys!!

 

On mine the fingers weren't pushing back enough/combined with the leak, causing it not to be pushed back up by the spring/roller deal. Sounds like exactly what you have, but double check your fluid levels to make sure it's not leaking. Who knows a shot of oil on the roller might be all it needs.
With externals the manufacturer isn't as critical. I am not so lucky. Internals are the work of the devil.
-Mike

 

Heck yea, I hate internal slave cylinders! I wanna convert my truck to a ZF-5 speed, but not an internal slave...

 

The only reason they suck is servicing, but if you're doing a swap and you put a quality one (the new pattern motorcraft ~$126) in from the start, it'll last 150,000-200,000 easy. And I believe the external slave/heavy duty/close ratio/big block zf wont bolt up directly to a small block/I6 like the internal slave would. Mine is an old pattern slave, and they tend to leak. And as a manual, you're dropping the tranny periodically for clutches any way.
-Mike

 

Only 460's and diesels have an external slave with the Zf's integrated bellhousing.
Buy quality parts and it shouldn't be an issue.

 

Ah that makes sense. I know my 96 F350 4x4 with the 7.3 had one and I took for granted that was all/most of the ZFs.

And if the internal slaves last that long with a good one, I have no problems running one. Thanks guys!

 

check the bushings on your clutch/brake pedal bracket ... i have been reading up on this because i have the same problem on my 1989 f250 ... apparently it's a common problem for trucks of this era ... i looked up there and, sure enough, my bushings (and perhaps even the bracket itself) are worn. glad i found this out before i started replacing all sorts of clutch parts !

if this turns out to be your problem, note that some years use steel brackets and some use aluminum. they are different and not interchangeable. i grabbed one from the parts yard just in case mine turns out to be worn. there is a good tutorial here somewhere on how to re & re the bracket and bushings.