I have been doing some research on this problem but all seem to be a bit different. The temp gauge goes up, right under normal, and falls back down to cold. Moves up a little above the C, and falls back down. The chances of it staying in the Normal range is low. The heat is like regular air, nothing warm or hot.
1997 ford ranger 2.3L
-Top hose is warm (thermostat opening = good)
-hoses going to heater core is warm (will check return hose) Some moisture around the temp sensor "T" connector. the culprit?
-heavy acceleration 3rd gives a LITTLE warmth to heat, barely noticeable.
I bought a new temp sensor, but the T connect seems to be in bad shape. Went to ford and they gave me this part number: f2tz18b402a Can anyone verify this is the T connector?
Have you checked the coolant level in the radiator? Alot of time people check the coolant by the recovery bottle not the radiator. Not saying this is your problem, but all info and diagnostics performed would be helpful.
yup, forgot to mention that one. I did check it. always full.
When I squeeze the top hose, you can see all the other hoses moving as well.
When I turn off the heater for about 20 seconds, turn it back on, there is a surge of warm air, then goes away.
I covered the radiator with cardboard and the needle stayed at 1/4 of the gauge for the most part.
The return hose from the heater core did not feel as warm/hot as the other hoses.
There is definitely a pinhole leak at the temp sensor T. I can see some dripp marks below, near the alternator, which may explain battery gauge moving SLIGHTLY down during a roll/stop. Have that ordered and on the way for Friday.
Will also be getting a new water pump and thermostat.
Is there is way to check if the thermostat is stuck open? The manual says if its taking a long time for heater/gauge to warm up, thermostat is stuck open. Then it says if the upper radiator hose is hot, it means the coolant is flowing and thermostat is open. Sounds contradicting.
If you haven't done it lately flush the cooling system when you replace your parts. You can disconnect both inlet /outlet lines to heater core and run water thru it to flush it out separately. When you refill park on incline and leave rad cap off till and run till warmed up to burp out any air.
When you flush out the lines also do the heater core while you are at it if it is cloged up it could also be part of the problem. It will be messy but it is worth it in the long run. Good luck and keep us posted.
Flushing the system is of great importance especially if your coolant is that color. It should be clean looking even if it's colored and like mentioned above; make sure you flush your heater core.
Sounds also like you may have a thermostat that is stuck open. Now that it's cold out you are noticing that the truck isn't coming up to temp. Doesn't hurt to change it out for all of $13 or so. When your engine doesn't run at the correct temp it doesn't rid itself of pollutants nor does it operate at peak efficiency which means decreased mpg.
Water pump and both inlet and outlet tubing
The "T" holding the temp sensor, and sensor
tubing all around.
The heater core was severely clogged with black stuff. Got it free and running clear water.
Everything is back together, though the inlet pipe coming off the water pump is leaking. I bought even bought the factory Ford o-ring for it.
What do you recommend for a sure fix of the leak? I read about Vaseline but feel that for my leak, it wont suffice. Teflon tape? extra o-ring? It was dripping when I started filling the radiator.
Also the big ball that has two very small lines going into the heater system, (vacuum?) has one broken tubing. Could this be causing problems such as no heat, gauge movement? Or would it be the severe leak at the water inlet tubing causing this?
Congratulations on getting the clog out. Sounds like you are on the way to having the thing function as it should.
As for the inlet pipe leaking, I think if you can fit another O ring in there, you could try that. Sounds like the O ring (even though Ford) is not of the correct dimensions needed for your waterpump/tube application. The vaseline would take the place of a silicone grease and not to really stop leaks, just to lubricate the O ring so it doesn't bind going into place.
The vacuum line (tube) that you are referring to is just that. If you found one damaged either cut it back or replace it. It will be a reason for no heat, but not for the gauge not working. The heat sensor on the engine will make the gauge work.
The o-ring was messed up when installing. did not put any grease on it. Got it in now, no leaks, and have heat.
Though temp sensor not working. I got the wrong sensor, (goes on the "T" right off the water outlet too the heater core) I got the coolant temp sensor, when I think I needed the heater core temp sensor. The plugs look identical but one of them has an offset guide. Autozone does not carry this.
Could this be causing the temp gauge to not work?
Also regarding the vacuum for the heater. Does anyone have a pic of where the line goes exactly? Im not sure if I have it at the right hole. Tell me this. Can you see one of the lines off the ball connecting to the heater box in plain view?
Got the right sensor, it was called a Temperature Sensor Autozone Part TU220.
Gauge is working, but is it reading SLIGHTLY low, about a quarter inch from the middle. Runs fine and great heat, but have been reading about the Temperature level, and rangers are said to run better a little hot. Given that, I would assume a little low is not "the best"?
I'm not sure about the placement of the vacuum line but I'll do some checking if I can. Mine's a '96, so it should be similar, though it's a 4.0.
Good find on the sensor. Remember even though it's a gauge, it may not be accurate; it's more like a visual aid. Run it for a bit and see how it's working. If it seems to be running fine, leave it alone. Secondly you have a factory temp thermostat and can usually find a higher and lower temp thermostat for it. Do you know which one you put in? It will usually tell you on the box it came it. I always opt for the factory temp unit, and have had no problems with performance of the engines.
Have ran it for a good 70miles and no problems. Heat is toasty
I guess from what I have read, the vacuum controls the openings and to which vent it comes out of. Mine is only coming out from defrost. I also noticed even with the dial on OFF, there is still hot/cold (wherever the dial is set) air coming into the cabin. Im assuming this is becomes of the vacuum, so I won't worry about it until I figure that out.
I still have the box for the thermostat in the garage. I asked the clerk for a 1997 ford ranger thermostat and they gave me what they had. I'm assuming it is the stock temp.
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