Fuel pump/filter/pressure regulator questions.

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Old 01-04-2012, 11:04 AM
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Fuel pump/filter/pressure regulator questions.

I have:
75 F250 w/460, C6 A/T, new Edelbrock 750cfm carb, electric inline fuel pump (mounted on frame under drivers side).

Problem: Under heavy acceleration from 1st to 2nd gear, the engine chokes out right when it shifts - almost like it is running out of gas.

What I have done:
I had a problem going thru fuel pumps - thinking they were picking up sediment from the bottom of the gas tank. (I tend to run the gas down very low before filling it up) When I put a new pump in without an inline filter, it does not hesitate at first, then after months of use it would start to do the same thing. This time, I put a fuel filter inline right before the fuel pump - between the tank and the pump. Now it hesitates like it did with the other pumps - only this one is brand new.

My current fuel line set up:
Fuel tank ---> inline filter --->electric fuel pump (Carter, I believe it is up to 5-6 psi?) -------------------------------->fuel line runs from the pump, up the frame rail, loops around and connects to a hard line that runs up the front of the block and into an inline glass fuel filter mounted on top of intake manifold---> Edelbrock 750 cfm carburetor.

Questions:
Do I need a fuel pump that has a higher PSI capability than the one I am using due to the distance the fuel has to travel from the pump to the carburetor and the addition of a filter before the pump?

Since I am using a bigger carb (was using 600 cfm) do I need to move more fuel than the fuel pump will handle?

Will I benefit from installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator between the pump and the carb?

Other recommendations or suggestions?

Thank you.
 
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:23 PM
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Before you do anything, tap into the fuel line right as it enters the carb and temporarily install a fuel pressure gauge (0-15psi typical for carb'd engines). I made my own setup from various hoses/fittings I had in the garage, and I route the line to the gauge up to the base of the windshield area (on the outside, don't want pressurized gas inside the cab) so I can watch the gauge while I drive.

That will tell you if you are having a fuel supply issue or not. It sure beats guessing!
 
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by redmondjp
Before you do anything, tap into the fuel line right as it enters the carb and temporarily install a fuel pressure gauge (0-15psi typical for carb'd engines). I made my own setup from various hoses/fittings I had in the garage, and I route the line to the gauge up to the base of the windshield area (on the outside, don't want pressurized gas inside the cab) so I can watch the gauge while I drive.

That will tell you if you are having a fuel supply issue or not. It sure beats guessing!

Yes, that is a good idea!

I will start there.
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by redmondjp
Before you do anything, tap into the fuel line right as it enters the carb and temporarily install a fuel pressure gauge (0-15psi typical for carb'd engines). I made my own setup from various hoses/fittings I had in the garage, and I route the line to the gauge up to the base of the windshield area (on the outside, don't want pressurized gas inside the cab) so I can watch the gauge while I drive.

That will tell you if you are having a fuel supply issue or not. It sure beats guessing!

Actually, how did you run the fuel line to the gauge by the windshield and still keep it close to the carburetor?

I cannot see anywhere that I can run the fuel line out from under the hood without pinching it with the hood closed. Is this something the hood needs to be off to do?
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Myfreeford
Actually, how did you run the fuel line to the gauge by the windshield and still keep it close to the carburetor?

I cannot see anywhere that I can run the fuel line out from under the hood without pinching it with the hood closed. Is this something the hood needs to be off to do?
There is no need to keep the gauge close to the carburetor. The line going from the tee to the gauge itself can be a very small diameter, as it has zero flow at static pressures and thus no pressure drop - it only communicates the pressure to the gauge (and in fact, the top end of the hose at the gauge probably never even sees liquid fuel at 5-7psi, it is a pocket of trapped, compressed air at the same pressure, but that has no bearing on this discussion).

Per the above, since there is no flow in the hose going to the gauge, it can be of small diameter, I think in my setup it is 1/4" ID hose. I leave the hood on, but carefully run the hose around the end of the rubber seal at the top of the cowl, just inside of the hood hinge. Yes, you have to be careful that the hose is not pinched shut by the hood. On most vehicles, there is just enough room to snake a hose through there, but you may need to hold it in place with some tape or wire ties. Then position the gauge so you can see it easily while driving (zip-tie it onto a wiper arm, assuming that it's not raining that day!).

This is well worth doing IMO. I tore down the entire top end of an engine once trying to figure out why I didn't have any power on the highway (way too long of a story to repeat here). Finally, in desperation, I put one of these gauge setups on. I had about 1psi of fuel pressure on the highway!!! The fuel line was mostly blocked. I hate it when I miss something like that.
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by redmondjp
There is no need to keep the gauge close to the carburetor. The line going from the tee to the gauge itself can be a very small diameter, as it has zero flow at static pressures and thus no pressure drop - it only communicates the pressure to the gauge (and in fact, the top end of the hose at the gauge probably never even sees liquid fuel at 5-7psi, it is a pocket of trapped, compressed air at the same pressure, but that has no bearing on this discussion).

Per the above, since there is no flow in the hose going to the gauge, it can be of small diameter, I think in my setup it is 1/4" ID hose. I leave the hood on, but carefully run the hose around the end of the rubber seal at the top of the cowl, just inside of the hood hinge. Yes, you have to be careful that the hose is not pinched shut by the hood. On most vehicles, there is just enough room to snake a hose through there, but you may need to hold it in place with some tape or wire ties. Then position the gauge so you can see it easily while driving (zip-tie it onto a wiper arm, assuming that it's not raining that day!).

This is well worth doing IMO. I tore down the entire top end of an engine once trying to figure out why I didn't have any power on the highway (way too long of a story to repeat here). Finally, in desperation, I put one of these gauge setups on. I had about 1psi of fuel pressure on the highway!!! The fuel line was mostly blocked. I hate it when I miss something like that.
Good information. Thanks from your fellow PNW neighbor.
 
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