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  #16  
Old 01-04-2012, 02:30 PM
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Reps sent Travis. I have fusion ones with the solder already in them. Waiting on one flag battery cable ends and lugs for the ground wires.
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  #17  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:09 PM
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This one is definitely worth an atta babe Travis! Well done!

I'm out of ammo for ya though.
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  #18  
Old 01-05-2012, 12:56 AM
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Travis, your the man! With my 200 amp mean green alternator sending juice back to my camper that has six batteries to run a freezer and refrigerator, this is exactly what I need to do. Reps sent, I'm glad I'm able to.
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  #19  
Old 01-05-2012, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjwoolw View Post
I'm out of ammo for ya though.

Yeah I tried too, but I'm in a timeout....
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  #20  
Old 01-05-2012, 01:42 PM
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Yep, no reps from me either...
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  #21  
Old 01-05-2012, 03:46 PM
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Nice job Travis.

Questions for you as I'm kinda dumb about this: What would be the advantage or disadvantage to going straight from the fuse holder to the battery instead of thru the solenoid? Do you even need to go thru the solenoid? If not, what are the risks (what do you lose) by bypassing it?

I'm wanting to upgrade all my charge wires at some point and put on a bigger alt.
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  #22  
Old 01-05-2012, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbird1965 View Post
Travis, your the man! With my 200 amp mean green alternator sending juice back to my camper that has six batteries to run a freezer and refrigerator, this is exactly what I need to do. Reps sent, I'm glad I'm able to.
I put in the feed for my camper directly from the alternator and left the wiring to the truck battery alone. I figured that the bulk of the high current charging would be to the camper then I should just take the heavy wire to the alternator directly.

I also used a lift gate plug for the pigtail to the camper. It is the size of a truck 7 pin connector but has two giant pins in it. Since I've done that I've never had a problem with low batteries in the camper.
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  #23  
Old 01-05-2012, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by strokersace View Post
Nice job Travis.

Questions for you as I'm kinda dumb about this: What would be the advantage or disadvantage to going straight from the fuse holder to the battery instead of thru the solenoid? Do you even need to go thru the solenoid? If not, what are the risks (what do you lose) by bypassing it?

I'm wanting to upgrade all my charge wires at some point and put on a bigger alt.
I ran the charge cable to the solenoid on both of my trucks b/c that's where the bulk of my accessories are drawing from, not straight from the batteries. As you can tell in the pic of my solenoid, I have quite a few aftermarket things run to the solenoid for power. Not sure how much difference there would be running straight to the battery.

It is cleaner to just run the wire to the solenoid so you don't have another wire on the battery and I tested last night with everything running on my truck last night. Voltage at the solenoid and battery voltage are exactly the same with everything running. I doubt there'd be any difference running straight to the battery.
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  #24  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_13894 View Post
I put in the feed for my camper directly from the alternator and left the wiring to the truck battery alone. I figured that the bulk of the high current charging would be to the camper then I should just take the heavy wire to the alternator directly.

I also used a lift gate plug for the pigtail to the camper. It is the size of a truck 7 pin connector but has two giant pins in it. Since I've done that I've never had a problem with low batteries in the camper.
That sounds good Joe but I don't fully understand. Did you splice into the charging wire that Travis is talking about? Does this lift gate plug fit the standard RV plug? Can the RV positive wire handle the higher charge? I am interested in Travis's mode and your idea, tell me more! The combination of these can really help me out and make that 200 amp alternator of mine do some serious work.
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  #25  
Old 01-05-2012, 11:04 PM
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I did a post with pictures of the install on RV.net:

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Truck Campers: Heavy gauge charging systems
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2012, 11:26 PM
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Very good info as well Joe!
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  #27  
Old 06-18-2012, 10:02 PM
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When you wire the chage cables and wires that way does the stock amp gauge still work?
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  #28  
Old 06-18-2012, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bronc View Post
When you wire the chage cables and wires that way does the stock amp gauge still work?
It should.

What he did with the shortened wire was eliminate a silly wire run that read from the same lead.
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  #29  
Old 06-19-2012, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Talyn View Post
It should.

What he did with the shortened wire was eliminate a silly wire run that read from the same lead.
Exactly. Wiring it in this way, everything still works exactly how it did before.
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  #30  
Old 04-09-2013, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch View Post
Exactly. Wiring it in this way, everything still works exactly how it did before.
Bringing up an old thread but trying to get an answer...in your write up you say:
Quote:
What your going to end up doing is rather than having the yellow wire running all the way to the starter solenoid, put a ring terminal connector on it and attach it to the charge cable lug on the alternator
Any issues/concerns with eliminating the fusible link protection on this wire?
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:52 PM
 
 
 
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