Ok thanks for keeping things clear, I forgot about that

 

While it was relocated to the inner fender it is mounted to a heatsink and still requires use of thermo paste to promote heat transfer, should have been included in the box with the ICM.

 

let me clarify for 84-6.9L, she turns over but will not start. Same problem I was having before..

Additionally I have replaced the fuel filter and when I turn the ignition into the secondary position I can hear the fuel pump kick on, My truck has duel tanks and one is full and the other is half tank.

Jeff

 

Unplug the spout connector, i was told at one time if it does start with it unplugged it could mean a bad pip

 

The gray Ignition module will not keep you from starting the tuck but will not run as well and will also set a IDM code in the computer.

If the remote mounted Ignition module did not have any thermo paste to promote heat transfer it can get hot and do what it is happening.

Are you saying it cranks very slow after the engine is hot but cranks at normal speed when cold?

 

I finally registered instead of using an external log in....

Yes it cranks regular, Wife started her this morning and she ran for 30 minutes, then died... I know I put the thermo paste on the back of the ICM to sheild from the heat sync.... Is there something else I should look at?

Jeff

 

Still sounds like a bad PIP sensor inside the distributor. Sometimes you have to replace the distributor three or four times to get a good one. Some of the posters on here after buying the a replacement distributor that it did not work for them they just replaced the PIP sensor in it themselves and that fixed it for them.

Of course it could still be a bad computer or fuel pump also.

 

The quote is from your original post under No. 1. Were you saying the truck wouldn't start at all? If it wouldn't start until you replaced the distributor, I would say FOR SURE you got a bad replacement distributor.

I think you got a bad distributor regardless. You replaced the coil and ICM with new ones, right?

 

yes replaced the entire electrical system, coil, ICM, and Distributor, sparks and plugs. I have a friend that had me bypass the ICM by providing power direct from the battery to the Red Green of the coil and I can hear the Fuel Pump Turn on and Still nothing. The Coil has a "capacitor" or "resistor" that is silver that plugs into the coil, what is it and can it go bad, and can you purchase a replacement, it almost seems like this could keep the circuit in an open position not allowing the spark to pass to the Distributor... could it really be that simple?

Jeff

 

where can I find the spout connector?
Where is the diode that I can change and where is the neutral switch

I want to rule everything out

Jeff

 

That does not bypass the ICM, that bypass the Ignition switch.
The radio capacitor at the coil can short but that is very rare.
The radio capacitor can be bough at any auto parts store.
The radio capacitor will keep it open but can short it to ground but if this happens you will have no spark at all at any time.

 

The neutral switch is on the drivers side of the transmission if it has a automatic transmission.
The neutral switch will not kill an engine while it is running.

SPOUT:


/

 

Pulled the spout plug, no change..

I'll try the Radio Capacitor @ the coil...

Jeff

 

4.9 banger this transmission shfits erractly...its been to all them pros..and still sucks......i want a reply to this lemon mother ..motors a good one though