Water filters are 'nominally rated', which means that they let particles much larger than their micron rating through. It is a much better idea to use a filter with an absolute rating at least as low as your fuel filter. I use FUEL filters to clean my WVO. Don't bother with water block filters as they cannot/will not remove water from WVO.

Straining the oil thru sheets, tee shirts or blue jeans before the fuel filter can be an economical way to make fuel filters last longer though.

Allowing WVO to go thru the same on-board filter and contaminating the diesel tank is a proven recipe for problems. I know here on the www people claim great success, but I have yet to meet many people in the real world who are successful for long. I do not know anyone who has met more VO'ers than I have....

The diesel mazda/ranger is a sweeeet engine!

I've always said 'Choose wisely, or please post pics of the carnage!'

 

Is there some reason that this place https://greasecar.com/ doesn't have a conversion kit that would work on my 2004 F-250 with the 6.0L Diesel?

 

Yeah, its because they've had limited success with the 7.3 and everybody knows the 6.0 is finicky about fuel pressure. Kirk has a bunch of miles on his 'modified' GC kit in a 7.3, but not without issues that would have killed a 6.0 a loooong time ago.

This is the only successful conversion for a 6.0:
Full VegiStroke V4 Kit - Biofuels Technologies

 

The 6.0 uses oil pressure to push a fuel pump. Resulting in a variable fuel pressure. Depending on oil type, oil temp, and pressure. Causing fuel delivery issues. Using veg oil will increase the likelihood of fuel delivery issues. Sorry, please stick with diesel and bio-diesel. For a more dependable vehicle.

 

I would agree. I'd also add, that if you are using Bio Diesel, you need
to change your fuel filter more often than recommended.

 

That is not quite how it works... Just like the 7.3, the 6.0 uses an electric fuel pump to supply ~55psi to the HEUI injectors, which use high-pressure oil to increase the fuel pressure - up to 20,000psi. The 6.0 injectors are just much less forgiving to low fuel pressure than the 7.3 - this is primarily the reason we hear of more 6.0 injector failures than 7.3 failures.

I know quite a few 6.0's with LOTS of successful miles on WVO. There is a 'right way' to do it. (its just not a greasecrap kit )


Do you use biodiesel? Why do you need to change the filter more often? Even the often-repeated rumor about bio-d 'cleaning out' the fuel system and clogging up fuel filters is not always true.


I strongly recommend a FUEL PRESSURE gauge to anyone considering alt. fuels or more HP in these trucks. As long as the gauge sender is post-filter, you'll KNOW what the condition of your filter is and know when it really needs changed, instead of just guessing!

 

x2 on fuel pressure gauge. and the electric fuel pump is cooled by the fuel in the tank so always keep over 1/8-1/4 of a tank of fuel in the tank. the extra fuel filters are for older vehicles that may of built up residues in the fuel system. after a filter change or two the system should be o.k. the oil pressure fuel pressure boost system is what i was talking about. not the tank pump...ford has had issues with it, thus the 6.7 changes resolving the issue... only complaint i have with the newer trucks. you have to lift the cab out of the way to service the valves/head.

 

I use a PSD pump on my VO system and it regularly sees fuel temps over 200*. Ya can't believe everything ya see on the www! A lot of what we read is speculation and parrot-talk of bad info...

 

Thought I'd post this thread for those that still think they can run UNHEATED wvo.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ood-times.html

 

the wmo and rug didn't do his rig any good... good clean blended wvo or heated wvo does work fine..

 

Poor Linus... I can't bring myself to read all of that, but his initial plan had fatal flaws - ultimately mixing WVO and WMO was likely his demise. There is NO WAY to use a stock tank-selector valve to 'switch fuels' without contaminating the 'other' tank. He may have gotten away with his original plan of x-country in summer on unheated VO. The truth is, it prolly woulda burned just fine with 100% highway driving and minimal 'switchovers' mitigating cross-contamination. Sadly, this is one of MANY trucks that'll likely end up scrap metal due to 'alt fuels'.

 

He finally got it running again with help from some great FTE members, but had to install used injectors, and a used IP, that were sent NO CHARGE by our members.....

 

Wow! This is such a cool community. I'm glad he got it going and hope others can learn from his mistakes.

 

While I'm waiting for a replacement water pump for my diesel daily driver (slow ground mail), and since I'm sitting on ready-to-use filtered WVO, I decided to try unheated WVO in my unconverted dual tank IDI...

Over 50% WVO with slightly less than 50% diesel works fine in warm weather... (I use my block heater to start it on that mix).

 

Yep. It 'works fine' right up until it doesn't work anymore.

Since you are sending VO back to the diesel tank every time ya switch back, you are leaving increasingly higher blends in the engine every time you shut down and you never get all the VO out of the filter... This VO eventually begins to polymerize inside the IP, etc and soon enough your luck will run out. Meanwhile, starting the truck on those blends causes incomplete combustion and coking in the combustion chamber and downstream of the exhaust valves creating a whole different problem.

Many before you have learned this already - however, there are 'reported' cases where it seems to work for a long time. They can't say it on the internet if its not true.

A 'proper' conversion for that engine costs about the same as a handful of fill-ups on diesel. It just makes soooo much more sense to me to go with a proven recipe and actually increase your monetary savings at the same time...