I'm gathering parts for converting my '52 to 12V and rewiring it. I need to figure something out for a 12V headlight switch that I can use with my original '52 bezel and ****/shaft. Does anybody know for sure whether a 12V switch out of a '56 will work in the earlier trucks with their bezels and *****?

 

Why won't the 6v one work? It will have to carry half the amps.

 

I just used the stock switch.

 

OMG... MT is a Supporter!!! Check with Hell, has it frozen over ?!?!

Did they teach you the secret handshake yet?!

 

It's a long story I'd rather not go into. I'll pm you.

 

am using stock switch 3 years now, no problems.

 

The switch itself isn't the issue. It could care less. It's the dash light rheostat that makes a difference. The resistance value is calibrated differently for 12V than 6V. That's why you'll notice some called out as 12V and some as 6V in the catalogs.

 

I've wondered the same thing, for the same reasons. The mounting in the dash is a little different, but it appears it could be made to work with a little finesse. The **** shafts look like they could be the same length in the catalogs. I was going to give it a try when I got to that point, but I'm quite a ways off for that still. I'll let you be the guinea pig. Keep us posted as to what you find. I think it's worth a shot.

 

Sorry - I've totally missed that - never imagined 52 was that high-tech. Neither of mine are road worthy. So you guys have a dimmer on your dash lights instead of that little toggle switch on the bottom of the dash?? Cool.

Guess the old dog can still learn a thing or two...

 

My lights are never so bright I need to turn them down. Since you can turn them all the way down I can't believe it will be a problem, just some loss of range. You could always add a resistor in series, or use the bulbs that are lower wattage.

 

I think I'm going to try to find a reasonably priced good used switch and see if I can make it work. The rheostat winding is broke in my original '52 switch, so I need to come up with something anyway. I'll keep you posted!

 

If I could make a suggestion; as I recall, the stock switch extinguishes the front parking (running) lights when the headlights are on (?? - I don't have a stock switch to check). I'm running an aftermarket switch that leaves the parking lights on with the headlights, nice if you blow a headlight.

 

I'm in the middle of fixing some wiring on the 53 (using same headlight switch as 51-52) They are supposed to be the same but the Po had 2 seperate 2 position switches and I could'nt get the running lights to work at all.
Out of 3 parts truck switches I had sitting around, I swapped a good reostat into the one switch that still had all the connections still attached and started wiring.

I think I was having the same issue as you mentioned with the running lights going off when the headlights are on?? I think the wiring diagram i had maybe had some labeling backwards? or may have been me. I think I've got it all figured out now but my simple fix a couple wires to ignition switch and replace the light switch has had me tearing the entire dash apart and once messing with the wires it has snowballed out of control>>> Should have just purchased a new wiring harness etc as it would have been easier and would look a lot less like a rats nest of new wire under there

 

Nah, I think you had it wired right. That whole "parking lights or headlights but not both at once" thing is the way all Fords were wired right up through the late 60's. Since the taillights are on in either switch position, the solution I usually use is to wire the fronnt parking lights into the taillight feed. That way the parking lights and taillights come on in the parking lights position and then all stay on when you go to the headlight position. They look funny to me with the headlights on and the parking lights out.

 

Most of the older vehicles had no parks on with the headlights on. Chevies were that way too. It was because the parks were useless when the headlights were on, it was an extra unneccessary load (not that they draw that much). The headlight switch will work fine in a 12 volt system. I used the original '53 (which is the same for 51-54) in my Big Job, and there was no issue on the dash lights. A stock one will work, without any problems. I have three or four of those switches laying around, as I always keep them on hand if they aren't broken. I even took the time to open all the switches up when I rewired the Big Job, and broke the entire system down, wire by wire, because the 53/4 isn't wired the same as the 55/6, like most people are led to believe. Personally, I like my stuff wired like original, but that's me. When I did the Big Job, I only strayed from OE, in the fact that I used PVC jacketed wire, and added a fuse holder strip, but used one that was for glass tube fuses. I fused all the light circuits.