Sorry guys, but it is worth it to ask rather than smash my head against a brick or throw good money after bad

I have done a ton of reading, read everything I can get my hands on I swear. I think I have all the know how to get this done, but I am looking at a couple ways to save myself headache and not reinvent the wheel here.

I have a 226 straight 6, bellhousing adapter, and detachable hogshead (still need to verify it detaches - weekend job). I am planning on using a Dwight Bond plate (I'll get the pilot bushing from Dwight too). Heading back to the junkyard to snag a clutch disc out of an Astro, plan on getting thin headed flex plate bolts and having the flywheel turned down slightly to clear the springs. I plan on using the stock pedals, clutch, linkage etc.

I've read a couple T5 swap articles that mention using a modern donor driveshaft and then a crossover U joint so a guy doesn't have to get his butt reamed by a driveshaft shop (typically costs more than the transmission, adapter, and all the spare parts combined).

One article (guy dropping a T5 in a '47 Chevy AD truck A Stovebolt Tech Tip -- T-5 Tranny for AD Trucks) claims to get the 122" wheelbase Astro driveshaft and the Napa 348 crossover U joint.

For those reading this wondering what's so hard here... The S10 T5 has a splined output slip shaft driveline and an integral 1st u-joint, if it can be split open I haven't figured out how.
So my question: has anyone figured out what vehicle to snag a driveshaft off and the appropriate crossover u-joint (to install in a normal un-modded F1)?
Seems this detail is so minor compared to all the fab up front people just gloss it when writing how to articles. I think the majority of folks take their driveshaft to a shop and just take the pounding.

I've also read a couple articles (i.e. How to Shorten Your Driveshaft - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum) on shortening driveshafts and it sounds like a perfectly acceptable solution would be to take a long chevy (t5 style) driveshaft, chop it the right length and then weld an old non-metric Ford u-joint knuckle - we would have a normal Ford standard part number u-joint on the back then. Granted all the tech articles I've found say to shorten the shaft, not put someone else's knuckle on it - so tell me is this a bad bad idea, isn't this what the machine shops do in this situation anyhow?

Also since I am starting a thread - anyone who wants to double check I am not forgetting stuff to order, grab from the junkyard.

The have:
1991 S-10 T5 with 4.03 1st gear (electric speedo sender)
Autometer electric speedo btw - programmable accepts a huge range of pulse inputs

To get:
Dwight Bond adapter plate
Pilot bushing (from Dwight)
Clutch Disc (junkyard Astro 11")

Help deciding:
Driveshaft (junkyard - ?which?)
Ford Truck u-joint knuckle? (48-72 1/2 ton)
crossover u-joint (napa - ?which? - not needed if shortening w/ knuckle swap)

 

Hi Brian,

I had my driveshaft done by a local driveline shop....I'm running an C6 from an F150 & I grabbed the driveshaft when I bought the engine and trans...anyways...the local guy replaced the u-joint in the slip yoke, added the right u-joint at the back end for my 9" rear end, and shortened and balanced the driveline. It was less than $200. When you consider the cost of the two u-joints, I really didn't feel overcharged for his labor. I would take a look at the S-10 that you took the T5 out of to see how long and what diameter that drive shaft is. On an F1 you'll probably need something around 48 inches long...maybe longer, but that depends on how long the tailshaft housing is on the T5.

By the way...the driveline shop didn't want to work on aluminum drivelines...only the steel ones.

Dan

 

Thanks Dan, I'm impressed by that figure - I read horror stories about $480+ driveshafts.
Yes the 2wd S10 I stole the trans out of had a steel driveshaft. I didn't measure the tube diameter (going back to check that out & steal it or an astro depending on length), but it looked about the same as my stock which is what give me the idea of shortening & welding on a knuckle.
I did some googling to find a driveshaft shop (just assuming I can't do it all myself and am gonna have a pro tackle it). I called these guys: Colorado Drive Shaft all they do is driveshafts, and they gave me a very reasonable figure, and told me my idea was sound to splice a Ford knuckle on the back of a Chevy shaft - they do it all the time. Indicated to seat into the seal all the way and then after measuring (with weight down on vehicle) subtract 1/2-3/4" for suspension travel. Sounds like if I bring him everything and he doesn't have to buy a Ford knuckle or anything it will be super reasonable - cheap enough to bring me back from the sticker shock on the articles.

I think I will use that mustang article as a guide and shorten it myself, putting on the mis-match knuckle, and then just take it to a shop for balance check (unless someone tells me how to check balance myself).

 

Your driveline is not a good place to cheap out. I do all my own work on almost everything no matter how complex the task, but the only two automotive jobs I always farm out are driveline mods and A/C service. Gathering the parts yourself and having a driveline shop assemble and balance the shaft is a perfectly good way to get it done for less money, but I'd never recommend welding it up yourself. It's nearly impossible to balance one properly at home and the guys that do it everyday are expert welders and are equipped to make sure that it runs true and the ends are installed perfectly square. Find a good shop with reasonable rates and let them do it. The piece of mind you get from knowing it's done exactly right is well worth the couple bucks you'll save doing it yourself. Trust me: there's nothing worse than an out of phase or out of balance driveline - except maybe for having one come apart at 75 MPH.

 

And....they even painted it for me. It was a one day service as well. I was thinking that if you really want to get this swap done & get back on the road....drop off your drivline & get to work on your crossmember.

For me...the things that I like to farm out are A/C work and exhaust work...now...driveline. I would do the A/C work, but it makes no sense to buy a recovery unit for the once every 5 years job.

Here's a motivational pic:

 

I found my muse.... One look at how pretty this weld is and yet it is still out of round and I can't weld prettier than that autowelder:
Balancing a drive line using a Westport balancer - YouTube

 

So what are you using for a throw out bearing? Are you building your own trans crossmember? What diameter clutch?

 

Throw out bearing is a vague detail from the articles I've read - what should I be planning on?

Crossmember yes - x2. I plan on rebuilding the stock with the appropriate clearances, and then fabbing another further back (a few folks here have done just a simple 5/16 strap bolted to the lower side of the frame for the T-5 support.

Astro van "11 inch" which is 10.5" in diameter.


And if anyone cares to lookup a part I have a parts question that would save me from dropping the 175# rock crusher just to heave it back up in place.... The stock pilot bearing, are they the same part number / diameter between the 6 cyl and 8 cyl - I see no reason why not, but Dwight wanted me to check before I confirm order and pay shipping on a part that might just not be right.

 

That video is completely different from my experience with modified and balanced driveshafts. In the video he is making the DS straight. That is not necessarily balanced. The guy I went to turned the shaft at about 100 RPM, in a rig that has transducers to measure imbalance forces, after straightening.

 

I've read a bit and I plan on going the route 51fordfan did (buying a bushing to reuse the original stock throw out bearing):

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...nd-collar.html

 

Ok so I called Dwight today, and he swears that to do this conversion you only need his kit and pilot bearing - that you don't need the throwout bearing collar. I put a money order in the mail to Dwight, but was gonna order the throwout if I need it (rather not tear it apart, find out I need 4 more parts and let it sit for 4 weeks while I wait for UPS).
Your thoughts guys - am I still missing parts or should I just wait and see?

 

I'm all done with the T5 install, and can give you guys a really close but no perfect driveshaft.
I took from a GMC S15, stock this measured 52+ steel and one diameter throughout, and I measured up that I needed 51 inches. It was the closest I could find, nothing was perfect on. (The S10 and Sonoma driveshafts were 53" or 54" and used a bigger tube in the middle)

Taking it to a driveshaft shop it was a simple shorten and change the rear to a crossover. Total was just under $150, and that included sandblasting and painting.

I did need the collar for the throwout bearing, had to modify.

I did use Dwight's pilot bushing, had to modify. If it was me again or me advising someone else I would suggest not to go this route and to get a simple bearing from a shop locally.

I already had thin headed flywheel bolts.

I used the S-10 clutch disc, cause my flywheel and clutch (looked stock) was too small for a big clutch disc. Surface area differences are almost nothing, it looks fine.

I did not have to machine anything, the S10 clutch disc cleared fine.

I used 1/4 x 2 strap, reinforced with 1/4 rod to fab the crossmember. I had asked my buddy in a machine shop for 5/16 but scrap he only had 1/4 - if you get 1/4 it will flex too much and needs reinforced.

I had a furlough day, and used a vacation day thinking I could get it done in 4 days. If I hadn't binded up the starter and had to tear that out and fiddle for 2/3 of a day getting it back in, then a long 4 day weekend would have been perfect. With all my frustrations and drivetime to the shop, drivetime running across Denver in traffic hell 5 days easy.

 

Hey Brian,

Do you have any pics????

 

I chose to replace the master cylinder while I have it in the shop. No leaks, etc but my driver front wheel won't bleed... must have crud in the line. I was up till 9:30 last night before heading in and calling it quits. I plan on a drive straight to the car wash to cleanse it top and bottom Then we will talk about pix