Explain difference between manual & shift-on-the-fly 4WD systems
#1
Explain difference between manual & shift-on-the-fly 4WD systems
Educate me please:
So explain in laymen’s terms the difference between Auto/lock and Manual/free hubs 4DW systems?
I have a 08, SD, 5.4 with the switch on the dash (no man handle) and the hubs say auto/lock on them. (Dealer just replaced both sides prior to my purchase). I thought the originals said Manual/Free???
Can you switch from one type to the other like that?
So if I leave my hubs in "auto" is front drive train spinning while in 2WD?
When in auto I should be able to simply twist the dash switch (on the fly) and wa-la I’m in 4wd without getting out to twist the hubs right?
Then what is the “Lock”position for?
The Ops manual explains MSOS (manual shift on stop) and ESOF (Elec shift on the fly). I get the basics but not clearly at least for my thick engineer skull. I need to know exactly whats up.
Which system is more desirable?
What advantages does one have vs the other?
Sorry for the ignorance and 1000 Qs. I did read the ops manual and of course they really don’t make it 100% entirely intuitive. I’m hoping you all can put it into layman’s language.
This is my first Real truck as I’ve owned Jeeps (heeps) for the last 20 years & all had the” man-handle”...pull and go no hubs to twist. Down side is everything is always spinning just not locked together until in 4WD.
Thanks for enlightening me,
Steve
So explain in laymen’s terms the difference between Auto/lock and Manual/free hubs 4DW systems?
I have a 08, SD, 5.4 with the switch on the dash (no man handle) and the hubs say auto/lock on them. (Dealer just replaced both sides prior to my purchase). I thought the originals said Manual/Free???
Can you switch from one type to the other like that?
So if I leave my hubs in "auto" is front drive train spinning while in 2WD?
When in auto I should be able to simply twist the dash switch (on the fly) and wa-la I’m in 4wd without getting out to twist the hubs right?
Then what is the “Lock”position for?
The Ops manual explains MSOS (manual shift on stop) and ESOF (Elec shift on the fly). I get the basics but not clearly at least for my thick engineer skull. I need to know exactly whats up.
Which system is more desirable?
What advantages does one have vs the other?
Sorry for the ignorance and 1000 Qs. I did read the ops manual and of course they really don’t make it 100% entirely intuitive. I’m hoping you all can put it into layman’s language.
This is my first Real truck as I’ve owned Jeeps (heeps) for the last 20 years & all had the” man-handle”...pull and go no hubs to twist. Down side is everything is always spinning just not locked together until in 4WD.
Thanks for enlightening me,
Steve
#2
If you search the forum, there's lots of info on this. The hubs have always been auto/lock with ESOF. The MSOS has the "man handle" and manual hubs (get out to engage).
For the ESOF system - In auto, the front drivetrain is disengaged at the hub, and at the transfer case. When you select 4wd on the ESOF, it engages the transfer case (no man handle needed) and the hubs.
If you have the hubs in "lock" then the front drivetrain is always engaged at the wheels, and the ESOF only engages the transfer case.
Therefore, "auto" is the best choice as the axles are disengaged unless you engage them. People use "lock" if they are having trouble engaging the hubs (vacuum leaks, bad seals) and they think they may need 4wd.
Hope that helps. Engineers do have thick skulls, but you can prove it to yourself, just crawl under the front when it's in auto, and you'll be able to spin the U joints at the wheels.
And engineers should know, it's Voila! not wa-la, unless you're from Texas.
For the ESOF system - In auto, the front drivetrain is disengaged at the hub, and at the transfer case. When you select 4wd on the ESOF, it engages the transfer case (no man handle needed) and the hubs.
If you have the hubs in "lock" then the front drivetrain is always engaged at the wheels, and the ESOF only engages the transfer case.
Therefore, "auto" is the best choice as the axles are disengaged unless you engage them. People use "lock" if they are having trouble engaging the hubs (vacuum leaks, bad seals) and they think they may need 4wd.
Hope that helps. Engineers do have thick skulls, but you can prove it to yourself, just crawl under the front when it's in auto, and you'll be able to spin the U joints at the wheels.
And engineers should know, it's Voila! not wa-la, unless you're from Texas.
#4
ESOF: system any idiot can turn the **** and feel secure with a system that takes something simple and complicates it and is apt to let you down when you need it most.
Manual: system that requires rather involved prior planning and exercise required to get out of the truck have the hubs locked in advance and exert extensive physical effort to move a lever 1" in the cab.
Right or wrong, I'm surprised Ford didn't have the auto/lock hubs on the manual transfer case trucks, the older 1/2 tons had auto hubs and lever on the floor.
Manual: system that requires rather involved prior planning and exercise required to get out of the truck have the hubs locked in advance and exert extensive physical effort to move a lever 1" in the cab.
Right or wrong, I'm surprised Ford didn't have the auto/lock hubs on the manual transfer case trucks, the older 1/2 tons had auto hubs and lever on the floor.
#5
If you have your manual, it should tell you to manually lock your hubs when in 4 Low or if you will be in 4 high for any length of time ex: mudding, plowing snow
ESOF/Auto is a convenience if you just need 4 wheel drive to get off a wet lawn or a slick driveway
If you think you will spin for awhile and will be jockeying your way out in forward and reverse, get out and lock 'em in, I know from experience because I have to lock mine in all the time, I blew my auto hub because I was too lazy to get out and lock them in, they still work mind you but not in Auto
ESOF/Auto is a convenience if you just need 4 wheel drive to get off a wet lawn or a slick driveway
If you think you will spin for awhile and will be jockeying your way out in forward and reverse, get out and lock 'em in, I know from experience because I have to lock mine in all the time, I blew my auto hub because I was too lazy to get out and lock them in, they still work mind you but not in Auto
#6
I had that system on my 1995 F-150. The hubs were weak and very easy to break, even with the torque of a smog equipment choked 5.0L V-8 pumping an awesome 210 HP. I finally installed a set of Warn hubs and never had to worry about it again.
#7
Thanks all for the responses. I just picked this thing up and its crappy out so I havent been inclined to crawl around on it as I would do in the Summer (lazy). Wasn’t sure exactly why the "Lock" feature was there as the ops manual doesn’t go into the depth I like. So thanks for making it clear.
MDSuperDuty, yes that’s the dealer where I purchased the truck in East Avon. That’s primarily what he does is trucks. So far I’m satisfied with them.
MDSuperDuty, yes that’s the dealer where I purchased the truck in East Avon. That’s primarily what he does is trucks. So far I’m satisfied with them.
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#9
MD...He's independent. Chris is the owner. He appears to be a straight shooter not the usual car dealership attitude. He moves about 70-80 units a month out of the lot, according to him. He also has a full service garage with 4 ASE mechanics.
He only deals with clean vehicles, bodies and carfaxes. No junk unless that’s what you’re looking for. He sells a lot of commercial plow trucks. A lot of guys prefer used trucks to beat up. He has a decent connection for purchasing new & used plows. I almost had a Fisher installed, next year maybe. Hard to justify when the guy who does our 300' driveway charges $22 per swipe.
He only deals with clean vehicles, bodies and carfaxes. No junk unless that’s what you’re looking for. He sells a lot of commercial plow trucks. A lot of guys prefer used trucks to beat up. He has a decent connection for purchasing new & used plows. I almost had a Fisher installed, next year maybe. Hard to justify when the guy who does our 300' driveway charges $22 per swipe.
#10
Thanks all for the responses. I just picked this thing up and its crappy out so I havent been inclined to crawl around on it as I would do in the Summer (lazy). Wasn’t sure exactly why the "Lock" feature was there as the ops manual doesn’t go into the depth I like. So thanks for making it clear.
MDSuperDuty, yes that’s the dealer where I purchased the truck in East Avon. That’s primarily what he does is trucks. So far I’m satisfied with them.
MDSuperDuty, yes that’s the dealer where I purchased the truck in East Avon. That’s primarily what he does is trucks. So far I’m satisfied with them.
If you are going to be in a situation where you are going to need or think you need 4wd, just lck the hubs.
When the hubs are locked, the front axles will be locked to the hubs but the transfer case will not be engaged.
It may affect the gas mileage slightly, but I wouldn't think by much.
I will do a test on my truck and fill it up today and drive with the hubs locked and track the mileage, and then run the next tank with the hubs in the automatic/unlocked mode and see if there is a difference.
I had a 4wd back in 85 and it had manual hubs on it and I left them locked all the time, never had any problems running them locked all the time.
#11
#12
#13
The electronic version is much more convenient. The manual version will always work and is slightly quicker shifting in and out of 4Hi, and somewhat more difficult to get in and out of 4Lo. The manual also is somewhat more satisfying to engage and disengage, but I'd take the convenience of the electronic version anyway.
#14
Two trucks I had, 05 F150 and 06 F250, both fried the 4x4 shift motors and I'm a very conscious user not just flipping the switch all over. I'll take my current manual shift any day. With the hubs locked I can "shift on the fly" and have done so up to around 40mph.
The convenience is unbeatable for the auto, when it works properly.
The convenience is unbeatable for the auto, when it works properly.
#15
So long as the hubs are locked in and the front wheels are spinning at the same speed as the rears, I see no reason why not to manually shift into and out of 4-Hi at any speed. I've done it at 70mph on the interstate with not a clunk or complaint. Just making sure you're off the gas pedal the you're not slipping.