Shock Install, Steering Stabilizer - VIDEO
#136
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Great Falls, Montana
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Originally Posted by KC8QVO;[URL="tel:11911248"
11911248[/URL]]After the Ohio meet I figured I'd post an update to this thread.
I worked on the air system last week and got it sealed up. One of the fittings was leaking where it bolts up to one of the shocks. I was testing where all the lines enter the fittings and once I had that all sealed up there weren't any leaks. However, the one I kept missing was the whole fitting block itself. In any event, no more leaks. My compressor hardly runs. I keep the power on to it all the time now and have only heard the compressor 2 or 3 times outside of setting changes or cutting power/turning it back on.
Setting changes:
I am most of the way loaded for my trip up North so this has been a decent way to see how the truck rides with a load. I haven't put the truck on scales yet, but I would guess there is between 1000 and 2000lbs in the bed. The overload springs are touching the front plates.
On my drive back I was paying attention to the settings a bit. The highway setting (6 front 3 rear) and sport setting (8 front 6 rear) were the better "stock" settings, with the sport setting damping the oscillating more than the highway, but they both rode OK. The "off road" setting (4 front 4 rear) wasn't as good, it rocked and rolled a bit more.
On the MyRide setting I played with 9's front/rear and, as you would expect, it rode quite stiff. This was the best setting for holding back the oscillating though.
I loosened up the rear to 7 with the front on 9 and that was pretty good too, still stiff in the front but it worked and didn't oscillate much.
One note I have is it would be really cool if these shocks could have 2 different settings for each shock - a compression setting and a rebound setting. I say this because I like the damping ability of the shocks at 9's front/back, but it sends every bump through everything that can rattle. If it was possible to have a softer compression and stiffer rebound that may be interesting to see. Or, if the shock absorber could be reversed so instead of rebounding when unloaded it compresses (put the force the opposite direction to soften the overall compression of the suspension). For all intents and purposes the shocks only dampen the spring motion they aren't load bearing.
I worked on the air system last week and got it sealed up. One of the fittings was leaking where it bolts up to one of the shocks. I was testing where all the lines enter the fittings and once I had that all sealed up there weren't any leaks. However, the one I kept missing was the whole fitting block itself. In any event, no more leaks. My compressor hardly runs. I keep the power on to it all the time now and have only heard the compressor 2 or 3 times outside of setting changes or cutting power/turning it back on.
Setting changes:
I am most of the way loaded for my trip up North so this has been a decent way to see how the truck rides with a load. I haven't put the truck on scales yet, but I would guess there is between 1000 and 2000lbs in the bed. The overload springs are touching the front plates.
On my drive back I was paying attention to the settings a bit. The highway setting (6 front 3 rear) and sport setting (8 front 6 rear) were the better "stock" settings, with the sport setting damping the oscillating more than the highway, but they both rode OK. The "off road" setting (4 front 4 rear) wasn't as good, it rocked and rolled a bit more.
On the MyRide setting I played with 9's front/rear and, as you would expect, it rode quite stiff. This was the best setting for holding back the oscillating though.
I loosened up the rear to 7 with the front on 9 and that was pretty good too, still stiff in the front but it worked and didn't oscillate much.
One note I have is it would be really cool if these shocks could have 2 different settings for each shock - a compression setting and a rebound setting. I say this because I like the damping ability of the shocks at 9's front/back, but it sends every bump through everything that can rattle. If it was possible to have a softer compression and stiffer rebound that may be interesting to see. Or, if the shock absorber could be reversed so instead of rebounding when unloaded it compresses (put the force the opposite direction to soften the overall compression of the suspension). For all intents and purposes the shocks only dampen the spring motion they aren't load bearing.
I have installed the 9000XLs on my F-350. Great Shocks. I ordered in the MyRide system. I now have to make time to install it.
#137
Roy,
The biggest tip I can pass along for you regarding the MyRide install is to use oil or grease to seat the O rings on both the fitting blocks in the shocks and the hoses in the fittings. Do this first time around and see how it goes.
Once you get it all hooked up, pressurize it and take a spray bottle with soapy water to EVERYTHING - all the hose/fitting joints as well as the fitting blocks around the shocks. If you see any bubbles (soapy water bubbles even just "moving around", not necessarily bubbling up) you have a leak.
If a hose leaks at the fitting - pull it out, cut off the measured amount (9/16" I think for the hose-shock fitting, 1/2" for a T fitting) with the supplied tool, re-lube, and re-insert.
If a fitting block leaks at the shocks - leave the hose on (as to not disturb the seal already in place), un-bolt the block, check the O ring over, move it around as needed, and re-insert (it was lubed before, right?).
Go over all the joints again with the soapy water spray (all fittings, T's, and joints between fitting blocks and shocks).
I hope this helps! It might avoid a few hours of frustrating troubleshooting.
The biggest tip I can pass along for you regarding the MyRide install is to use oil or grease to seat the O rings on both the fitting blocks in the shocks and the hoses in the fittings. Do this first time around and see how it goes.
Once you get it all hooked up, pressurize it and take a spray bottle with soapy water to EVERYTHING - all the hose/fitting joints as well as the fitting blocks around the shocks. If you see any bubbles (soapy water bubbles even just "moving around", not necessarily bubbling up) you have a leak.
If a hose leaks at the fitting - pull it out, cut off the measured amount (9/16" I think for the hose-shock fitting, 1/2" for a T fitting) with the supplied tool, re-lube, and re-insert.
If a fitting block leaks at the shocks - leave the hose on (as to not disturb the seal already in place), un-bolt the block, check the O ring over, move it around as needed, and re-insert (it was lubed before, right?).
Go over all the joints again with the soapy water spray (all fittings, T's, and joints between fitting blocks and shocks).
I hope this helps! It might avoid a few hours of frustrating troubleshooting.
#138
#139
Join Date: Sep 2011
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Roy,
The biggest tip I can pass along for you regarding the MyRide install is to use oil or grease to seat the O rings on both the fitting blocks in the shocks and the hoses in the fittings. Do this first time around and see how it goes.
Once you get it all hooked up, pressurize it and take a spray bottle with soapy water to EVERYTHING - all the hose/fitting joints as well as the fitting blocks around the shocks. If you see any bubbles (soapy water bubbles even just "moving around", not necessarily bubbling up) you have a leak.
If a hose leaks at the fitting - pull it out, cut off the measured amount (9/16" I think for the hose-shock fitting, 1/2" for a T fitting) with the supplied tool, re-lube, and re-insert.
If a fitting block leaks at the shocks - leave the hose on (as to not disturb the seal already in place), un-bolt the block, check the O ring over, move it around as needed, and re-insert (it was lubed before, right?).
Go over all the joints again with the soapy water spray (all fittings, T's, and joints between fitting blocks and shocks).
I hope this helps! It might avoid a few hours of frustrating troubleshooting.
The biggest tip I can pass along for you regarding the MyRide install is to use oil or grease to seat the O rings on both the fitting blocks in the shocks and the hoses in the fittings. Do this first time around and see how it goes.
Once you get it all hooked up, pressurize it and take a spray bottle with soapy water to EVERYTHING - all the hose/fitting joints as well as the fitting blocks around the shocks. If you see any bubbles (soapy water bubbles even just "moving around", not necessarily bubbling up) you have a leak.
If a hose leaks at the fitting - pull it out, cut off the measured amount (9/16" I think for the hose-shock fitting, 1/2" for a T fitting) with the supplied tool, re-lube, and re-insert.
If a fitting block leaks at the shocks - leave the hose on (as to not disturb the seal already in place), un-bolt the block, check the O ring over, move it around as needed, and re-insert (it was lubed before, right?).
Go over all the joints again with the soapy water spray (all fittings, T's, and joints between fitting blocks and shocks).
I hope this helps! It might avoid a few hours of frustrating troubleshooting.
#140
and good ole silicone grease can be difficult to find unless one knows where to look. a good source is a scuba shop if you only want a small container or online of course
#141
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#142
Have not done the MYRide yet...so until then I lubed the adjustment ****.
Read somewhere it can be problematic when it gets wet...and mine does occasionally while launching or retrieving the boat.
Obviously it will get done if you do the shocks and additional system at the same time.
#143
The 9000's are designed to either use the adjustment ****, the MyRide gizmo or tee into the air bag lines.
I have a firestone Tech R4 air ride in my truck and the bags-shocks are tied in as part of the install. More air in the bags - more air controlling the dampening in the shocks.
I have a firestone Tech R4 air ride in my truck and the bags-shocks are tied in as part of the install. More air in the bags - more air controlling the dampening in the shocks.
Sorry for all the questions but I am about to buy the shocks and myRide and want to make sure it will fix or at least help my oscillating problem.
#144
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Which did you install first, the air bags or the shocks? What do you tow? Was it bouncing around a lot and did the shocks fix that? What part number did you buy for the rear?
Sorry for all the questions but I am about to buy the shocks and myRide and want to make sure it will fix or at least help my oscillating problem.
Sorry for all the questions but I am about to buy the shocks and myRide and want to make sure it will fix or at least help my oscillating problem.
I use the Rancho 9000xl shocks. Love'em. I have the MyRide, have not iinstalled it yet. I found the shocks work like a champ!! I am useing 6/4 Front/Rear settings. The truck rides great. With my 5th wheel (about 2000lb pin weight) I find 6/7 seems good. The bouncing is controlled! No bounce problems anymore. I believe the part #'s are: xxxx42 front and xxxx47 rear. I have noticed some folks came up with xxxx52 for the rear??? BTW... there are other threads for info on these shocks.
Have Fun
Roy
#145
Hi Roy,
Thank you for the info, I just went back to the Rancho website and the updated it last night! There is now a section for the '11 and '12 F250/350 shocks!
Unfortunately they did not have anything on the site for the DRW. I called and they told me they do not have any shocks for my truck.
Roy is your truck DRW?
Thank you for the info, I just went back to the Rancho website and the updated it last night! There is now a section for the '11 and '12 F250/350 shocks!
Unfortunately they did not have anything on the site for the DRW. I called and they told me they do not have any shocks for my truck.
Roy is your truck DRW?
#146
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Hi Roy,
Thank you for the info, I just went back to the Rancho website and the updated it last night! There is now a section for the '11 and '12 F250/350 shocks!
Unfortunately they did not have anything on the site for the DRW. I called and they told me they do not have any shocks for my truck.
Roy is your truck DRW?
Thank you for the info, I just went back to the Rancho website and the updated it last night! There is now a section for the '11 and '12 F250/350 shocks!
Unfortunately they did not have anything on the site for the DRW. I called and they told me they do not have any shocks for my truck.
Roy is your truck DRW?
#147
#148
Howdy Joe...
I use the Rancho 9000xl shocks. Love'em. I have the MyRide, have not iinstalled it yet. I found the shocks work like a champ!! I am useing 6/4 Front/Rear settings. The truck rides great. With my 5th wheel (about 2000lb pin weight) I find 6/7 seems good. The bouncing is controlled! No bounce problems anymore. I believe the part #'s are: xxxx42 front and xxxx47 rear. I have noticed some folks came up with xxxx52 for the rear??? BTW... there are other threads for info on these shocks.
Have Fun
Roy
I use the Rancho 9000xl shocks. Love'em. I have the MyRide, have not iinstalled it yet. I found the shocks work like a champ!! I am useing 6/4 Front/Rear settings. The truck rides great. With my 5th wheel (about 2000lb pin weight) I find 6/7 seems good. The bouncing is controlled! No bounce problems anymore. I believe the part #'s are: xxxx42 front and xxxx47 rear. I have noticed some folks came up with xxxx52 for the rear??? BTW... there are other threads for info on these shocks.
Have Fun
Roy
Roy,
I went with the xxxx254 which Rancho Suspension quoted in those threads.
Now the web site says the same....just an FYI.
#149
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I hear ya....?? I have seen people order both, they both seem to work fine.